carburator jets, accuracy of carburator jets. Options

[DBCooper]

+1

[brant]

anybody willing to explain the soldering technique to me?
I want to give that a try, I've been purchasing different sizes every few weeks but want to give soldering a try.

- I assume a propane torch to heat up the jet and then a drop of solder?
- does it stick adequately to the brass
- do you have a fixture to hold the hot jet, or just pliers?
- what kind of solder is best (required) someone mentioned acid core
- I have jet measuring tools... but where do I buy jet drills
(cb, pmo I'll bet)

thanks in advance!

[jmill]

Pliers are big heat sinks. Hold the jet in a vice with a wire or piece of sheet metal with a hole for the jet to drop in. Just don't sweat the threads or your holder.

I'm not a big fan of soldered jets. Too much variance between the four jets for my taste.

[Mark Henry]

- I have jet measuring tools... but where do I buy jet drills
(cb, pmo I'll bet)

http://www.cip1.ca/ProductDetails.asp?Prod...ode=C13-43-5715

Man $75, when I bought my set it was like $35...

[ME733]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif) ....well guys, I was sorta hoping that there would be a better response to ...WHO HAS THE MOST ACCURATE carburator jets. Apparently not many people have jet remers/ jet drill,s to check them. Some responses suggest sodering up the jet, and then drilling/reaming them out to the size needed. I have seen what results from,sodered jets- air or mains that fail. meaning the soder breaks loose, and vibrates out, or turns sideways and blocks the jet. The result is a torched cylinder. I have never used sodered jets and never will and cannot recommend this solution for getting the correct jet size,s. The discussions also brought up "wide band" ..or ..the use of exhaust gas analyzers to dial in the magic air fuel ratio. The use of this tool is normally dependant on ONE "sniffer" up the tail-pipe. This tool does not account for each cylinders Air/ Fuel ratio, but Rather gives a reading of the "average" of all cylinders. I only bring up these points, to provide Information for this group. Information about Where to purchase a cost effective JET DRILL set could be of use. thanks for the responses. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif) murray

[Mark Henry]

Man sometimes I think this guy is Alfred (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

[DBCooper]

Hmmm... That's how I've done it for about four decades now, on my own and on customer's cars. Good to find out it doesn't work. Thanks.

Still scratching my head though. I'm aware of no way to get a more accurate hole than with a drill index. If you use the same drill in each hole how could they end up being different? And if you can't solder then of course the best advice is "don't".

The wide band tells you how the MOTOR is running, rich or lean, in different running situations, so it has to be in merged exhaust flow. You jet each throat the same, so the whole engine is in balance. You could jet each barrel individually, I suppose, but I don't know anyone who does, or why they would.

[tat2dphreak]

Man sometimes I think this guy is Alfred (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/screwy.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/stirthepot.gif)

[jmill]

Still scratching my head though. I'm aware of no way to get a more accurate hole than with a drill index.

You could jet each barrel individually, I suppose, but I don't know anyone who does, or why they would.

Working in the aircraft industry for years I can tell you that a drill bit won't drill the same size hole twice. Most drill bits create a triangle like hole anyhow. Also the run-out on most drill presses stink for accurate jet work. If you set the jet up in a mini lathe and step up the hole with reamers I'd run them. I don't have the right size reamers or a mini lathe so I just buy new.

There's folks out there who jet each barrel individually. Most use EGT not a wideband. I don't get that deep into it and run with the average of all 4. It's close enough for the girls I run with.

[DBCooper]

Quibbles. Certainly you could do better with a lathe, but not enough better to matter. Have you measured those jets you're buying new to compare? That was the original complaint, variability among purchased jets from their marked size. In any case I said solder and drill until you have it jetted correctly, then, if you prefer, replace with new jets in the correct size. I've never found the need to put in new myself, and think you're just as well off or better with the jet reamers/drill index.

People who jet each barrel individually exist of course, just nobody I know. People who used to spent that much time on the dyno were serious racers who these days are all running fuel injection.

Your experience may differ, and that's fine. The important point is to know that there are different ways to do things, judge for yourself what's best for your case, and then do as you like.

[Mark Henry]

My set is reamers not drill bits.
Almost all tuners agree the average AFR is good enough if the engine is in good condition,( i.e. can pass a leak down test.)

One thing I loved about SDS FI is I could change my "jets" by pushing a button on the dash. That system is now going in my bug. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[Joe Ricard]

I put a straight pipe on my tangerine tubed 2316-210.
Phase 9 muff liked a idle 53 jet 145 main
2 1/2" straight pipe needs 63 ish and 155 main

Snuck up on it with my reamers. wide band meter is wonderful

[scotty b]

hot glue and a sewing needle does the trick for me Murray (IMG:style_emoticons/default/thumb3d.gif)

[ME733]

hot glue and a sewing needle does the trick for me Murray (IMG:style_emoticons/default/thumb3d.gif)
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif) ....... scotty b........You have got to get out of the paint booth more often......a little fresh air once in a while could do you some good. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif) murray