 Multi or Not, Engine Oil |
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| elsargento |
 Dec 17 2009, 07:35 PM
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#1
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Newbie  Group: Members Posts: 44 Joined: 9-September 06 From: Topanga, California Member No.: 6,802  |
Been running Castrol 30wt and I'm thinking about changing to multiviscosity. Any suggestions? Was thinking about 20-50wt Castrol. socal cold mornings and warm hill climb in the afternoon. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif)
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Replies(1 - 17)
| r_towle |
Dec 17 2009, 07:52 PM
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#2
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Custom Member Group: Members Posts: 24,574 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Taxachusetts Member No.: 124 Region Association: North East States 
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20W50 is the right choice. It helps keep oil pressure high.
Cold CA mornings....(IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif) Rich |
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| elsargento |
Dec 17 2009, 08:03 PM
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#3
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Newbie Group: Members Posts: 44 Joined: 9-September 06 From: Topanga, California Member No.: 6,802 |
Rich I can see why your laughing from where you live cold CA is a joke. 20-50 it is. BTW I had to actually wear long pants to work the other day. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif)
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| ericread |
Dec 17 2009, 08:09 PM
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#4
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The Viper Blue 914 Group: Members Posts: 2,177 Joined: 7-December 07 From: Irvine, CA (The OC) Member No.: 8,432 Region Association: Southern California |
So please educate me of why you would use Castrol oil on a tappet engine? Are you indicaing the zinc and other additives used in oils (such as Brad-Penn) are not important?
No sarcasm intended, I just am interested to hear your justification. My thanks. Eric |
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| Elliot Cannon |
Dec 17 2009, 11:04 PM
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#5
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914 Guru Group: Retired Members Posts: 8,487 Joined: 29-December 06 From: Paso Robles Ca. (Central coast) Member No.: 7,407 Region Association: None 
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Mobil 1 20 dubbya 50. (Ceramic lifters).
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| ME733 |
Dec 18 2009, 09:45 AM
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#6
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 842 Joined: 25-June 08 From: Atlanta Ga. Member No.: 9,209 Region Association: South East States |
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif) .....I normally recommend 20/50 VALVOLINE. But considering you have already been using Castrol, then just use 20/50 Castrol. It is also good oil. with each oil change you may want to add 1/2 qt of a pure synthitic oil. The synthetic will lubricate the engine seals, keeping them soft and tight. I know there are many new oils available. I have never had any problems with VALVOLINE no matter what the engine application was. Years ago, in a back to back test (when I had an engine DYNO) VALVOLINE proved itself by allowing the engine to produce 1.5 HP..more than any other oil. (140 H.P. 1600 cc engine, ) which eventually, ( over many years evolved into 1600 cc 185 HP.) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif) murray
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| tat2dphreak |
Dec 18 2009, 09:58 AM
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#7
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stoya, stoya, stoya Group: Benefactors Posts: 8,797 Joined: 6-June 03 From: Wylie, TX Member No.: 792 Region Association: Southwest Region  |
I have been using Valvoline VR-1, it has the high ZDDP everyone loves, but easier to find than brad Penn.
I've been using straight 40w at the recommendation of several people, including the mechanic who built my engine. after break-in, I might eventually swap to 20-50 tho. |
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| flipb |
Dec 18 2009, 11:30 AM
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#8
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,722 Joined: 2-September 09 From: Fairfax, VA Member No.: 10,752 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region
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What's a good weight for those of us who live in places with four seasons? 10/40?
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| Mark Henry |
Dec 18 2009, 11:48 AM
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#9
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that's what I do! Group: Members Posts: 20,065 Joined: 27-December 02 From: Port Hope, Ontario Member No.: 26 Region Association: Canada |
QUOTE(flipb @ Dec 18 2009, 12:30 PM)  What's a good weight for those of us who live in places with four seasons? 10/40? Good old Shell Rotella T 15w40 is what I put in a $14K T4 engine (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) I'll use it on my big T4 engine too if I ever finish my bug (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif) I used 30W-HD valvoline in my 18yr/old gene Berg 2.0 type one till I changed to Rotella T, this engine is my daily summer driver and has been in four of my VW's. It's now in my '67 bus and I have to beef the trans before it busts it. This engine has already claimed the lives of 3 other transmissions. The engine cost me $4500 IN 1991. Anywhere $12/gal. BTW I still have a case of Swepco oil sitting on the shelf (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif) |
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| JmuRiz |
Dec 18 2009, 01:24 PM
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#10
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 5,427 Joined: 30-December 02 From: NoVA Member No.: 50 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region
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QUOTE(Elliot Cannon @ Dec 17 2009, 09:04 PM) Mobil 1 20 dubbya 50. (Ceramic lifters). So does that mean you use the V-Twin motorcycle oil? |
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| Drums66 |
Dec 18 2009, 02:02 PM
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#11
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914 Rudiments Group: Members Posts: 5,321 Joined: 15-January 03 From: Coronado,Cali Member No.: 151 Region Association: Southwest Region |
I've tryed to get modern with the oil thing, and have used multi
and synthetic.........My car never runs or idles correctly??? I use 30wt. Valvoline and the car runs beautiful!!! of course I also have Hydraulic lifter's......I like them (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wub.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif) |
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| elsargento |
Dec 18 2009, 11:39 PM
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#12
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Newbie Group: Members Posts: 44 Joined: 9-September 06 From: Topanga, California Member No.: 6,802 |
So is there any difference between Castrol and Valvoline as far as additives? Or just a preference? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)
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| tat2dphreak |
Dec 19 2009, 11:14 AM
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#13
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stoya, stoya, stoya Group: Benefactors Posts: 8,797 Joined: 6-June 03 From: Wylie, TX Member No.: 792 Region Association: Southwest Region |
vlovoline VR-1 has the high levels of ZDDP... regular valvoline or regular casterol does not, I'm pretty sure casterol's "Race oil" probably has more ZDDP than regular.
I did some searching around the web for high-ZDDP alternatives to Brad Penn, and Valvoline VR-1 had very near the same amount of ZDDP, and came highly recommended by several local aircooled mechanics and racers. |
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| rfuerst911sc |
Dec 19 2009, 12:27 PM
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#14
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,158 Joined: 4-May 06 From: Dahlonega , Georgia Member No.: 5,980 Region Association: South East States |
QUOTE(tat2dphreak @ Dec 19 2009, 09:14 AM) vlovoline VR-1 has the high levels of ZDDP... regular valvoline or regular casterol does not, I'm pretty sure casterol's "Race oil" probably has more ZDDP than regular. I did some searching around the web for high-ZDDP alternatives to Brad Penn, and Valvoline VR-1 had very near the same amount of ZDDP, and came highly recommended by several local aircooled mechanics and racers. The downside to VR1 ( I think ) is that because it is a " race " oil it doesn't have the proper amount of detergents for a street engine. If that is true then you have to be careful with drain intervals. Not sure it can go 3,000 miles, the best way to know is oil analysis. Many oil threads out there that say Brad Penn and Swepco both have the ZDDP needed for our flat tappet engines AND a detergent package for the street. Motor oils that used to be good that have recently been re-designed to give better catalytic converter life are no longer good for our older flat tappet engines. Good luck to all of us to keep our engines performing as expected. |
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| MrLeeS |
Dec 19 2009, 12:58 PM
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#15
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Member Group: Members Posts: 62 Joined: 25-April 09 From: Albuquerque, NM Member No.: 10,300 Region Association: Southwest Region |
I'm a fan of the VR-1 Oil as well. According to Valvoline, VR-1 does have detergents in it, just not as much as a conventional oil. Considering we change our oil much more frequently than in modern cars I don't think the reduced amount of detergents is that big a deal. i haven't noticed any abnormal wear on HP street/track driven cars during scheduled tear downs.
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| rfuerst911sc |
Dec 19 2009, 01:05 PM
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#16
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,158 Joined: 4-May 06 From: Dahlonega , Georgia Member No.: 5,980 Region Association: South East States |
QUOTE(MrLeeS @ Dec 19 2009, 10:58 AM) I'm a fan of the VR-1 Oil as well. According to Valvoline, VR-1 does have detergents in it, just not as much as a conventional oil. Considering we change our oil much more frequently than in modern cars I don't think the reduced amount of detergents is that big a deal. i haven't noticed any abnormal wear on HP street/track driven cars during scheduled tear downs. Good to hear. What drain intervals do you use ? |
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| P.Rocket |
Dec 19 2009, 02:16 PM
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#17
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Member Group: Members Posts: 54 Joined: 17-March 08 From: Abbotsford BC Member No.: 8,822 Region Association: None |
Ahhhh, The age old conversation piece: What kind of oil is best? What brand is best? etc.....
All I know is that my 914 gets Shell 20W50 and works flawless. I also use 20W50 in the 71 bus and the 91 jetta. The jetta is what I drive all winter. It's a little slow cranking on those cold mornings but consumes less oil and stays clean longer. If it gets below freezing I just plug in the block heater to assist. Ya go ahead you guys down south say it, "What's that block heater thang?" That's another thread. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/stirthepot.gif) |
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| MrLeeS |
Dec 19 2009, 02:42 PM
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#18
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Member Group: Members Posts: 62 Joined: 25-April 09 From: Albuquerque, NM Member No.: 10,300 Region Association: Southwest Region |
QUOTE(rfuerst911sc @ Dec 19 2009, 12:05 PM) QUOTE(MrLeeS @ Dec 19 2009, 10:58 AM) I'm a fan of the VR-1 Oil as well. According to Valvoline, VR-1 does have detergents in it, just not as much as a conventional oil. Considering we change our oil much more frequently than in modern cars I don't think the reduced amount of detergents is that big a deal. i haven't noticed any abnormal wear on HP street/track driven cars during scheduled tear downs. Good to hear. What drain intervals do you use ? Depends on the time of year, during the winter when no hard use takes place I do 4k Miles. During the summer after every 2 Auto-x events, or after every real track event. And if I manage to go 3k miles without either of these happening I change it then. it may be a little too frequent in that case but drive my cars really hard on and off the track. Better safe than sorry |
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