Need some help choosing Dual carbs, Switching over to carbs. Options

[rhodyguy]

ixnay on those carbs imho. the inlet was broken in shippment(?,how does one manage that?) and a half assed repair was done. that is a crappy, crappy linkage. i run carbs on one of my cars. but, listen geoff (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif) , sort out the f.i. for the price of the carbs and installation you could ship the car to hph and have someone get it up to snuff. bolting on the carbs is 1/2 of the equation. they WILL have to be jetted correctly and "dialed" in, and that is another cat you can and will chase. i would suggest you stop pouring gas into the throttle body now that you know it will run. IF you gotta get carbs, do get the rotary pump FOR CARBS from cb. 44's are to big. as for being in a hurry, the days are getting longer and warmer. it took me 13 months to get the 73' up and running. there are a number of people here who are "working" on their cars. "working" as in trying to get them running, so you're not solo in this type of endevour.

edit. look, the ad has been running for 5 days. think to yourself, "why are there no bids if this is a good deal?"

kevin

[ArtechnikA]

ixnay on those carbs...
...ad has been running for 5 days. think to yourself, "why are there no bids if this is a good deal?"

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

the current problem on the engine is that you have no idea what is and what isn't working. the "best" way to address that is to assume nothing, check everything, and go all the way back to basics. but that does take a certain amount of experience and mechanical intuition, so we won't go down that path.

but the fact is, you don't know what's what. to make ANY headway, you must use ONLY KNOWN-GOOD parts. not a "99.9% complete" "only a little broken" rebuilt second-hand project setup. ask any of us who've spent A WEEK trying to round up that last 0,1% part without which the car will not run!

the parts you get must be in KNOWN GOOD WORKING condition from someone you can trust. (that's everybody in this thread, and most people on the board...)

whether it's a carb setup or FI parts, get what you're getting from some who can KNOW THEY WORK.

if you had a good baseline working reference engine, you could fix and tune an unknown carb setup - with a chassis dyno and a wideband gas analyzer.

[rhodyguy]

isn't mikez selling a set? buy geoff a plane ticket and a few lift tickets. tell him to bring his $650 new in box mps or one of his $150 recalibrated ones. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif) then the gas analyzer and dyno time. there goes another $100+ per hour (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif) . fix the f.i.

i have to ask. what is the insurance premium for a 16 y.o. driving a 914?

kevin

[weird_looking_cactus]

Haha I have already check the insurance and its going to cost me $401 every 6 months thats about $75 or something a month. Well today Im going to talk to the mechanic and see what he has done to my car.

[rhodyguy]

$802 is less than i expected. at 16 you prob have'nt racked up too many tickets.

kevin

[weird_looking_cactus]

It would of been about $700 every 6 months but I watch a safe driving video plus took a test for the insurance company and they took off $250 plus I got good grades in school so that was another $50 (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)

[rhodyguy]

good job. if you were my son and kept your grades at a level to get the discount, i'd give you the dif towards your insurance.

kevin

[tat2dphreak]

$802 is less than i expected. at 16 you prob have'nt racked up too many tickets.

kevin

he can't rack up tix until the car is fixed (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

Cactus,
I'm a carb guy myself, but even I would say FIX THE FI! you need to learn one fuel system or the other, and FI is better to know in the future... and I believe is better for a stock sized engine. carbs require more "tinkering" in the future, and IMHO can be HARDER to learn without someone to show you... I only know carbs b/c that's what my dad taught in Small Block Chevy Land... and even he would say to learn FI while you can. I think many of us have carbs because that's all we know... carbs are easier to set up, but MUCH more difficult to get RIGHT...

you have the best FI support group on the WEB! we're all behind you! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif)

[Joe Bob]

isn't mikez selling a set? buy geoff a plane ticket and a few lift tickets. tell him to bring his $650 new in box mps or one of his $150 recalibrated ones.  :lol: then the gas analyzer and dyno time. there goes another $100+ per hour (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)  :lol: . fix the f.i.

i have to ask. what is the insurance premium for a 16 y.o. driving a 914?

kevin

Gee, one guy reads my stuff.... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

Yeah I got a set....44s with linkage, plus a dizzy....a couple of them, an 050 and an 009. They were jetted a little bigger than he needs but I have a box of jets and stuff....

Willing to seperate them from the motor....was asking $600.00. Needs air filters. Zeke ran them w/o....I don'ty think the carbs have more than 2 hours on them....

[Bleyseng]

Yeah, and Zeke burnt up his motor with them!!! in only 4 laps!!!!!
Thats why the FI is the way to go but hell all of us were young once and shot ourselves in the foot cuz we knew better!

I have nothing against carbs except on a stock motor as the djet or ljet is a nice fuel system.
I ran a 750 holley on my old truck with a 390ci. got near 325hp out of that beast 2 5mpg.


Geoff

[Joe Bob]

Jesus Geoff....isn't that a "little" simplistic? Zeke's engine had issues such as high compression and an overly aggressive advance that was unique to HIS engine. Coupled with a high speed pass at Willow Springs with out an engine break in period.... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blowtorch.gif) flame out....

You can't blame the engine flame out on the the carbs....you sound like Captain Crusty on Rennlist....use blue RTV and die, use braided stainless steel brake lines and die.... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

If the "cactus boy" wants the carbs they are available.

email me direct at 356@cox.net

[Bleyseng]

I was just pointing out that nothing is "bolt on" everything requires some effort to make it work right. I had suggested to Zeke to dyno that puppy......

Mikes carbs should be a good deal if he just can't figure out the FI. Someone here should know the baseline jetting for em too.

Geoff

[Joe Bob]

Yup...I agree...

[cgnj]

Hi,
Start Rant
We want you to succeed. None of us have our hands in your wallet. We have 914s. Most of us do put own work. Why do we do that? Is it because we are cheap? Or is it because 99% of the time the guy with his hand on your wallet, trying to sell you something doesn't really know these cars, works on some similar air-cooled product and has a similar fix that may or may not resolve your issues. I never worked on my own cars. I did a carb conversion on my first car. Here is the story. Circa 1982

Car was idling low or high, I don't recall. Took it to a local porsche shop (356 and 911). Paid for 6 hours of premium labor. What I got. Couldn't diagnose my problem. What I got. Advanced or retatded my timing, pick one. I am about 24 and unassertive. I eat the bill. I drive home and swear that no shop will ever do mechanicals on my car again. I realized that I could have bought and shipped to my doorstep, the new-fangle dual Dellorto 40mm carbs and a 050 distributor complete and have money leftover to buy tools and a Haynes book for less than what I just paid for essentially nothing. I did that.

While I was installing them, I found the cause of my idling problem. Bottom nut on intake manifold spun off and I had an intake leak. I spent about $1000 in 1982 dollars to "fix" 5 minute no parts problem.

I took the time to search for all of your posts. Because I want to beat you up? No, I want to help you. There are two many. From what I can tell, This car was a runner with a starting problem when you first bought it. You post questions, we try to help. On the posts that I have scanned, it seems that you don't ever really say. I found the problem or I fixed it. It works is different from I fixed it. Every fix seems to have lead to a different problem. We have no way of knowing if you actually are doing what the various members who probably have more direct experience with these cars than than your air-cooled guy and don't have our hands on you're wallet.

You have to let us help you. You have to say, yes I did exactly that. This is what happened. Don't do anything else. Don't leave anything out. We want you to succeed. We want you to be happy. We want you to like 914s. If you continue like this people will start to tune you out. You will be left with a non-op 914.

This site is better than a Haynes manual. It's better than (pick a number) 99% of the shops or people who tell you they know 914s.
End Rant

Why don't you start a new thread with a time line that starts with:
I bought this car I had to bump start it because the starter wonk crank. This is what I did to fix it to Should I buy carbs?

Save your money for stuff you really need, like gas and insurance.

Carlos
Wish I had a 914 and the internet when I was 16

[Joe Bob]

Good advice....

[mike_the_man]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) Totally! He keeps asking questions, but I'm never sure if he listens to any of the advice. It almost seems like he doesn't. These cars can be damn frustrating, but you have to step back, clear your head, and approach things logically.

[Bleyseng]

What do you expect he is 16....
Atleast Andyrew would post, "I did that and it didn't work, now what?" and "OKAY its fixed, now this doesn't work what did I do?"

Geoff

[tod914]

Cactus,

Here is something you should do even if you decide to get carbs!

1. Drain and clean the fuel tank. Replace the tank lines. Replace the fuel filter.

It is very easy to do and here is how you do it.

a. The gas tank evaporator(plastic box where your pour gas into), unbolt that. I think it's 6mm bolts on the top. Remove it. Unplug the wire that attaches to the fuel sender.
b. Siphon out all the gas. Look inside with a flash for any rust. Check for debree by the screen.
c. There is a big bolt that is on the top of the tank that is holding on a clamp. Undo that. Now, start to pull out the tank. There are two lines. One feed and one return. The one with the screen inside the tank is the feed. The other, the return. LABEL them on your tank. Also label where the hoses go into the fire wall. "F" and "R". Feed and Return or A & B dont really matter as long as it is consistant.
d. Now, remove the hoses and take out the tank. If the tank has rust, take it to a radiator shop, have it boiled and lined. There is this red rubbery liner they can use to create a bladded. Have them use that. Never have another rust problem. For fuel lines, you can use 8mm inner diameter high pressure line or order a kit from AA. Price will be about the same. The high pressure lines aren't needed there, but hey will last longer. Install is the reverse.
Buy enough line to redo all the lines in the engine bay as well.

Stuff you'll need;

4 inner injector seals, 4 outer injector seals, gas tank gasket for evaporator, 2 intake manifold seals. 4 FUEL INJECTION hose
clamps (not the kind u buy at home depot), new hose clamps for the fuel lines in the engine bay.
Find a local foriegn auto parts store. They should have the line and clamps.
Once you determine your fuel source is uncontamined/blocked, then we can help you with the rest of the system. Most of the vendors like Pelican will carry what you need. Only AA has the fuel sock.

That you can do yourself in a few hours. If your tank is clean with no rust, then blow it out with air. DONT use water! Make sure the sock isnt corroded. Once that is done let us know. I can walk you through the same steps that was taught to me by a member if you like. And or, Im sure other's are more than willing to help you out as you can see. PM me if you need my phone number.

[Scott S]

1972 2.0, carb specific webcam, euro pistons, dual 40's, MSD, compufire, and a factory 2.0 dizzy with an active vacume advance tapped into the passenger side carb.

Car was not run since right after Halloween. Uncovered it two weekends ago, turned on the key, hit the gas pedal once and it fired right up - no coughing/spitting - nothing. Immediately dropped to a 950 idle. Drove it all day. It took the tranny longer to warm up than the motor.
Do what you want - it's your car. I do agree that dropping a grand into a car that has never run would not be my first choice - new carbs wont cure a major mechanical issue.

Before everyone jumps all over my car, realise that I did not have the option of fixing my FI. It appears from reciepts that my car was one that had an FI engine fire - there is litterally not a shred of FI on my car anywhere - including randome things like the charcoal canister/lines. There was no way I was or ever will invest in all of the *used* parts to re-assemble that system. You want me to do an engine rebuild on a car that runs great just so some think its right? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/pissoff.gif)

[brians914]

Thanks Tod for posting that detailed proceedure. I bought a fuel pump relocation kit last summer and did not do it because removing the fuel tank seemed like a more difficult task. I guess I can do that one in a weekend. Thanks again, Brian.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)