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> Tubular Space Frame?, How would you do it?
URY914
post Mar 9 2010, 07:44 AM
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500hp puts you in a different crowd than my car. Here are I few that I've found over the years.....



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URY914
post Mar 9 2010, 07:45 AM
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URY914
post Mar 9 2010, 07:47 AM
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URY914
post Mar 9 2010, 07:53 AM
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URY914
post Mar 9 2010, 07:55 AM
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URY914
post Mar 9 2010, 08:03 AM
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I have more pictures but I'd have to spend the next day scanning them. As you can see, everyone has thier own ideas on how to do it. There is no right way or wrong way just different ways. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif)
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rick 918-S
post Mar 9 2010, 08:08 AM
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Hey nice rack! -Celette
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A Celette would be slick for a tube chassis. You'd have all the suspension pickup points, enigne and transaxle mount locations and if you ever wrecked her you could replicate the chassis. Some cool photos in this thread! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif) I totally agree with sir Andy though. Stiffening is a good idea but the 914 chassis is pretty good. 500 hp good though? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)
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Brett W
post Mar 9 2010, 09:52 AM
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The 914 chassis is far from good. I think the factory chassis stiffness is on the order of 2500lbs/deg. That is really weak. The factory chassis is a noodle.

As for the tube chassis. I would use 1.5x.045 and 1.5x.065 tubing. No need to get really big. Sheridan's car is probably the best engineered solution. It was done by a professional race car engineer. If you are going to do it I would toss the factory rear suspension and come up with something different. Mount the engine, tranny and suspension to an independent cradle. Then you could fix the 914 problems. The problem isn't flex in the rear of the chassis though. It flexes in the middle. So you will not gain much buy changing the rear. Plus the rear is pretty light because it is all sheetmetal.

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plymouth37
post Mar 9 2010, 10:41 AM
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Thanks for the input guys, lots of great pics. I am going to try to remember my statics and mechanics of materials classes from when I was in engineering so I can calculate some loads. I figure if I use predominantly .065 wall tubing the entire rear structure should weigh around 50 pounds.
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rick 918-S
post Mar 9 2010, 11:06 AM
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QUOTE(Brett W @ Mar 9 2010, 09:52 AM) *

The 914 chassis is far from good. I think the factory chassis stiffness is on the order of 2500lbs/deg. That is really weak. The factory chassis is a noodle.

As for the tube chassis. I would use 1.5x.045 and 1.5x.065 tubing. No need to get really big. Sheridan's car is probably the best engineered solution. It was done by a professional race car engineer. If you are going to do it I would toss the factory rear suspension and come up with something different. Mount the engine, tranny and suspension to an independent cradle. Then you could fix the 914 problems. The problem isn't flex in the rear of the chassis though. It flexes in the middle. So you will not gain much buy changing the rear. Plus the rear is pretty light because it is all sheetmetal.


I agree the center of the chassis is where the 914 is lacking. I don't agree the entire chassis is bad. The rear and front sections are very nicely built for a street car. Stiffening where the shock towers crack in the engine bay side and a support for the inside suspension ear are always a good idea. There is alot of overkill being built into 914's. I think it's just because guys like to build stuff.

BTW: I have zero chassis stiffening in my car. Yep. Zero. The rear of the chassis is just fine. Infact I removed the internal brace (boxed structure) just above the rear engine tin that crosses from tower to tower. I have in excess of 350 hp now with a very heavy engine. About equal to the weight of a big block chevy.

If I Ax'ed on a regular basis or raced, I would rethink this. But for a occasional thrashing like Monument National Park or a trip to and from Mount Wilson these cars rock!

It would be interesting to gauge what is happening to the chassis ahead of the rear firewall though... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/unsure.gif)

Dana, Build it like you want it. We love your work. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)
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Rand
post Mar 9 2010, 11:25 AM
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Top of shock tower (bridging the hidden gap between frame rail and tower) and suspension ear are the two most important points. Much more is overkill and excess weight. IMO.
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FourBlades
post Mar 9 2010, 11:35 AM
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QUOTE

Dana, Build it like you want it. We love your work. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)


(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

Just build more stuff and take more pictures!

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
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URY914
post Mar 9 2010, 11:45 AM
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You build it and some will like it, some won't. Some will say it's too heavy, some say it's too light. Some will say it should be painted black, some say paint it white. You get the picture......
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d914
post Mar 9 2010, 11:47 AM
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some one needs to design a full tube frame car...the buggy guys can build these things cheap.. Throw on a fiber glass body and youd have one hell of a DE car!!
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plymouth37
post Mar 9 2010, 11:49 AM
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QUOTE(URY914 @ Mar 9 2010, 10:45 AM) *

You build it and some will like it, some won't. Some will say it's too heavy, some say it's too light. Some will say it should be painted black, some say paint it white. You get the picture......

Well as long as it weighs less than 75 pounds, doesn't bend, and looks sexy, I will be happy!
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URY914
post Mar 9 2010, 12:50 PM
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QUOTE(d914 @ Mar 9 2010, 10:47 AM) *

some one needs to design a full tube frame car...the buggy guys can build these things cheap.. Throw on a fiber glass body and youd have one hell of a DE car!!


There are plenty full tube cars with 914 bodies on them.
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J P Stein
post Mar 9 2010, 01:42 PM
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Were I going to the trouble of building a tube frame, the first thing to go would be the Mac strut suspension & swing arms. Double A's all the way....just like a real racecar. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
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SirAndy
post Mar 9 2010, 02:15 PM
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QUOTE(plymouth37 @ Mar 8 2010, 05:57 PM) *

So I have been playing with the idea of adding a couple more tubes to the back of the Anklebiter.

Color me crazy, but i think the Anklebiter deserves a fully functional trunk.

The car is going to be too nice to have a crappy "race car" subframe ...
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif) Andy
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plymouth37
post Mar 9 2010, 10:10 PM
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QUOTE(SirAndy @ Mar 9 2010, 01:15 PM) *

QUOTE(plymouth37 @ Mar 8 2010, 05:57 PM) *

So I have been playing with the idea of adding a couple more tubes to the back of the Anklebiter.

Color me crazy, but i think the Anklebiter deserves a fully functional trunk.

The car is going to be too nice to have a crappy "race car" subframe ...
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif) Andy


I am willing to make a nice interior but I think an actual trunk that can hold things is entirely too practical for this project. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) I want this thing to be as close to a street legal race car as is possible. And never fear, I assure you it will be done right and not look crappy.
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jd74914
post Mar 10 2010, 07:42 AM
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Are you still in school? If you are you should grab a copy of SolidWorks and model what you are building. Then you can use the integrated FEA software to mess with tube sizes. Its quite easy to use (and there are some great tutorials about building tube frames in it on Youtube), and would really help you out with choosing tube size. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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