How bad is your heat?, Am I chasing a lost cause?? Options

[wayne1234]

So I took off the hearter parts of my parts car and cleaned them all up and painted everything did the drivers side and decided to try it out..... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) tempeture was about 60 outside last night and after running a few minutes the vent was putting out a weak 72 hardley any air movement. the flapper bos is working and in good condition and the dual fan blows out a fair amount of air, but it doesnt seem to make it up front... on chilly mornings and evenings I want some heat and defrost... this wont cut it in my opinion... what else has been done??? I had a crazy idea of a power inverter, and hair dryers behind the speakers, anyone done anything like this??? I have seen 12 volt hair dryers... what else has been done????? or what am I doing wrong ???? I know I have read many complaints about the heat but I had no idea it was that bad...

[tat2dphreak]

don, you were sweating in the garage(at 70) and working outside in a t-shirt in the snow, your body doesn't know cold....


that said, heat will run you out of the car when working good... unlike a normal heat that you can turn down tho, it seems to have 2 options, freezing and holy crap my eyes are melting it's so hot... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[r_towle]

Tip one.
Open front hood and remove the paper hose from the small distribution box on both sides.
Under rear of car, remove flexible hose from longitudinal connection.
Stick a shop vac on both tubes and suck out any blockage....mice nests, dust etc etc etc.

Tip two.
The front distribution box leaks after 35 years.
Look at it closely...both sides.
The box gets fed by two hoses....one from the fresh air box under the windshield and the other is from the rear heater hose.
Remove the paper tube that goes to the fresh air box and save it.
Take off both sides.
Cover all four holes with rattle can paint covers and use screw clamps to hold them on...they fit really nice.

Hook up the heater hose to the original connection it went to.
Now try it.

If you set the dash knobs in the right direction you will get pure hot air now...not a dilutted hot/cold air thing.

RIch

[wayne1234]

I'm going to try the paint cap thing tomorrow, It was the damn relay socket if i wiggle the relay or take it almost out it would fire up the blower,, I unhooked the heat hoses at the speaker grill and used a shop vac on blow, and blew both directions to the engine bay with the flex hoses un hooked, and up to the dash, it was fairly clean only dust came out... nothing big... then we hooked up the lines again and hooked the shop vac to the blower hoses and found as many leaks as we could and used high temp sillycone Also I ran a bolt through the rear of the heat exchanger to clamp it down to the exhaust pipes, we had minimal leaks,, made sure the lever was fully opening up the boxes.. Then we hooked back up the blower and hardly any air flow , then we fired up the engine even at 2500 rpm hardley any air coming through,,,, (IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) there is something I am missing

[Gint]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) with the others about 914 heat. If you drive around at 3000rpm, it will toast you out. Especially if you have a window cracked open to provide airflow. You have to remove all blockages as well as air leaks in your heat system. I would (and did) do that first.

IIWY, I would forget about that silly little electric blower motor for the time being. It will only do any good at idle speeds or just above. Once you get the engine running at 2500 rpm and over, the engine fan will overcome anything the pathetic little electric blower motor will provide anyway. My blower doesn't work and I never bothered to figure out why because they are pretty much worthless anyway.

[76-914]

Tip one.
Open front hood and remove the paper hose from the small distribution box on both sides.
Under rear of car, remove flexible hose from longitudinal connection.
Stick a shop vac on both tubes and suck out any blockage....mice nests, dust etc etc etc.

Tip two.
The front distribution box leaks after 35 years.
Look at it closely...both sides.
The box gets fed by two hoses....one from the fresh air box under the windshield and the other is from the rear heater hose.
Remove the paper tube that goes to the fresh air box and save it.
Take off both sides.
Cover all four holes with rattle can paint covers and use screw clamps to hold them on...they fit really nice.

Hook up the heater hose to the original connection it went to.
Now try it.

If you set the dash knobs in the right direction you will get pure hot air now...not a dilutted hot/cold air thing.

RIch

Good info Rich. If the Gods are willing, this might make it to the classics thread!

[aircooledtechguy]

My heater lever is only up just enough to get my index finger under it and it's perfect driving down the freeway. Any more and I get burned out of the car. And my blower fan is disconnected and the front blower is currently inop (I gotta get that one working for better defrost).

SSI heater boxes ROCK!!

[pbanders]

> A properly operating 914 heat system should toast you out, so something is wrong with yours.

I agree. Stock 914 heat works REALLY well...

-Steve

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

Mine works great. I can drive with the roof out and the windows up down to 50 deg. F comfortably (with a jacket). I have the splitter and hose for the passenger side blower air.

[rhodyguy]

in what positions do you have the dash HEAT control lever and air flow levers? it's pretty important...with one air control valve to body tube disconected at the body, does hot air come out of the tube?

[markb]

IIRC, the wires for the heater blower are different colors. Coming from the wiring harness there should be a brown (ground) wire and a green wire. From the fan, a brown wire and a yellow wire (or maybe it's the other way around).