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> Pulling back the years off stock 2ltr fuchs?, Tips?
computers4kids
post Mar 19 2010, 07:41 AM
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In the past I've restored fuchs but have always removed the anodizing and polished the wheels.

I have a set of fuchs that are in beautiful condition but their discolored with grime etc from 35 years. Do you have any tips for getting the wheels back to the original anodized look by just removing the layers of grime etc?

Steel wool? 2000 grit wet and dry? Media blast with ?
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dr914@autoatlanta.com
post Mar 19 2010, 07:54 AM
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QUOTE(computers4kids @ Mar 19 2010, 06:41 AM) *

In the past I've restored fuchs but have always removed the anodizing and polished the wheels.

I have a set of fuchs that are in beautiful condition but their discolored with grime etc from 35 years. Do you have any tips for getting the wheels back to the original anodized look by just removing the layers of grime etc?

Steel wool? 2000 grit wet and dry? Media blast with ?


Al Reed to anodize them. Perfect work perfect wheels
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Tom_T
post Mar 19 2010, 04:34 PM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)
In addition to Al Reid, who George is recommending above ....

There's Weideman closer to you up north:
Harvey Weidman of Weidman's Wheels in Oroville, California. (530-534-7903)

You may want to check out this discussion:
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...104799&st=0

I've talked with Al Reid & seen his work, & it's great. However, I'll also be checking out Weideman as well, before I decide which to use to restore my set of 5 Fuchs for my 73 2L - even though Reid is very close to me here in SoCal.
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Pat Garvey
post Mar 19 2010, 05:51 PM
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I've harped on this before, and I mean harped! Product is Simichrome. Will take all the crud & years of junk off....if you are careful! Careful means that it will not remove the anodizing....repeat, if you are careful!

It's a paste that a little goes a long way with. Use a small "nerdle" (as I can them), about the size of a small pea. Rub ever so gently with a clean 100% cotton cloth, but only until it starts to turn gray - then stop & wipe off the excess. Work with small areas.

If there are areas where the anodozing has worn off, the rag will turn black quickly. That will tell you that the part needs to be re-anodized. If not, proceed to the next area.

The stuff is great!
Pat
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hydroliftin
post Mar 19 2010, 06:26 PM
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QUOTE(computers4kids @ Mar 19 2010, 06:41 AM) *

In the past I've restored fuchs but have always removed the anodizing and polished the wheels.

I have a set of fuchs that are in beautiful condition but their discolored with grime etc from 35 years. Do you have any tips for getting the wheels back to the original anodized look by just removing the layers of grime etc?

Steel wool? 2000 grit wet and dry? Media blast with ?


Oxiclean and a scotchbrite pad.
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Pat Garvey
post Mar 19 2010, 07:07 PM
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QUOTE(hydroliftin @ Mar 19 2010, 06:26 PM) *

QUOTE(computers4kids @ Mar 19 2010, 06:41 AM) *

In the past I've restored fuchs but have always removed the anodizing and polished the wheels.

I have a set of fuchs that are in beautiful condition but their discolored with grime etc from 35 years. Do you have any tips for getting the wheels back to the original anodized look by just removing the layers of grime etc?

Steel wool? 2000 grit wet and dry? Media blast with ?


Oxiclean and a scotchbrite pad.

Nope - too harsh. The point is to protect the anodizing, not destroy it,
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computers4kids
post Mar 20 2010, 07:13 AM
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QUOTE(Pat Garvey @ Mar 19 2010, 04:51 PM) *

I've harped on this before, and I mean harped! Product is Simichrome. Will take all the crud & years of junk off....if you are careful! Careful means that it will not remove the anodizing....repeat, if you are careful!

It's a paste that a little goes a long way with. Use a small "nerdle" (as I can them), about the size of a small pea. Rub ever so gently with a clean 100% cotton cloth, but only until it starts to turn gray - then stop & wipe off the excess. Work with small areas.

If there are areas where the anodozing has worn off, the rag will turn black quickly. That will tell you that the part needs to be re-anodized. If not, proceed to the next area.

The stuff is great!
Pat


Pat, that "simichrome" looks like the stuff in a tube that the chrome guy in town sold me when I had bumpers rechromed and some polish work. I'll have to dig it out of the garage and see if it's the same stuff.
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i've found Simichrome at Napa, some Ace Hardware stores, some local auto parts stores. if you google simichrome, you will have no problems finding it online.
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Simichrome. It's made in Germany by Happich/GHE. Best stuff i've found to polish just about anything metal.
50 gram tube product number: 390050. comes in larger containers too. not inexpensive, but it works excellently. a little goes a long way.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=POJcAbwd8Vs
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ME733
post Mar 31 2010, 09:10 PM
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...........There is no easy or fast way to clean up your wheels, assuming you do it yourself....I just went through the process last fall. here,s what i used....LOTS of scotch brite pads and MAG WHEEL CLEANER, washing/scrubbing with Laundry soap., flushing with lots of water....repeat process/or vary techniques until done. It took me almost 3 full -8 hour days to get the road crud, paint (yep the d-ass previous owner painted them, i used paint stripper for this...), wheel weights and glue, as well as a little polishing to get them back to original finish. Bitch of a job but they look great! and cost probably 20 bucks for ALL the materials used. The scotch brite pads and mag wheel cleaner were very effective on the baked on crud on the back side....................murray
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