V8 Radiator Sources |
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V8 Radiator Sources |
kyracedog |
Mar 31 2010, 08:44 PM
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#1
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Newbie Group: Members Posts: 19 Joined: 19-November 05 From: kentucky Member No.: 5,151 |
Ok V8 guys, what type of radiators did you use? I know Renegade sells a kit that works, but $1100 is a budget buster. Already have the dual fans to use, so don't need them.
Looking for ideas/suggestions/sources. Thanks. |
RJMII |
Mar 31 2010, 08:47 PM
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#2
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Jim McIntosh Group: Members Posts: 3,125 Joined: 11-September 07 From: Sandy, Utah Member No.: 8,112 Region Association: None |
for my turbo V6 I'm running one out of a stratus/cirrus from about 96/97 ish. The gates hose fit okay on the upper and lower tubes, too.
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Mike Bellis |
Mar 31 2010, 10:31 PM
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#3
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Resident Electrician Group: Members Posts: 8,345 Joined: 22-June 09 From: Midlothian TX Member No.: 10,496 Region Association: None |
I have a Griffen aluminum, leaned back with a custom shroud. I have bought aluminum radiators from ebay before, well built and low $. I would never pay $1100 for a radiator. spend $200 and you will be happy. Just make shure you direct the air through it and not around it.
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Bruce Hinds |
Mar 31 2010, 11:21 PM
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#4
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V-8 madness Group: Members Posts: 733 Joined: 27-December 06 From: Port Orchard, WA Member No.: 7,391 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
Renegade is expensive, yes. But they've done a bunch of reasearch. You'll need more radiator than if it was in a front enging car or truck, so don't undersize. Getting a unit with enough cooling area in the space between the lights is not easy to find. We used to think more rows were better, but it's harder to pass air through 4 rows than three. The newer units use larger tubes and fins that disapate heat better. Getting the air out is more important than getting it in, so puller fans the bigger the better.
All that being said, if you're going to be in a warm climate and want to run A/C, you might copy what Renegade has done or bite the bullet and pop for a system that will work well. Especially if you're going with alluminum heads, you don't want to overheat those suckers. B |
Andyrew |
Mar 31 2010, 11:33 PM
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#5
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Spooling.... Please wait Group: Members Posts: 13,376 Joined: 20-January 03 From: Riverbank, Ca Member No.: 172 Region Association: Northern California |
I have a Griffen aluminum, leaned back with a custom shroud. I have bought aluminum radiators from ebay before, well built and low $. I would never pay $1100 for a radiator. spend $200 and you will be happy. Just make shure you direct the air through it and not around it. Same here, I used a big griffen. (note this is mock up pictures) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/post-2-1093922830.jpg) |
sean_v8_914 |
Apr 1 2010, 02:08 AM
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#6
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Chingon 601 Group: Members Posts: 4,011 Joined: 1-February 05 From: San Diego Member No.: 3,541 |
ron davis, Fluidyne double pass
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smrz914 |
Apr 1 2010, 02:50 AM
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#7
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Soon to be brightening the life of the person behind you. Group: Members Posts: 456 Joined: 21-April 03 From: Pleasant Hill, CA or Chico, CA Member No.: 596 |
I got my radiator custom made from Griffin. Renegade uses a double cross flow radiator so that the inlet and outlet are on the same side. Mine is a 2 core but would definitely go 3 core and make it shorter next time. I have had a little trouble with cooling but I think it's mostly due to air bubbles. I also think that I get a cycling of the thermostat opening and closing causing my temp to fluctuate but last time I ran the car everything was perfect. Good luck.
Attached image(s) Attached File(s) Radiator.pdf ( 17.65k ) Number of downloads: 50 |
Joe Bob |
Apr 1 2010, 06:24 AM
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#8
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Retired admin, banned a few times Group: Members Posts: 17,427 Joined: 24-December 02 From: Boulder CO Member No.: 5 Region Association: None |
Go Renegade....
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BIGKAT_83 |
Apr 1 2010, 06:52 AM
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#9
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,798 Joined: 25-January 03 From: Way down south Bogart,GA Member No.: 194 Region Association: South East States |
A couple of good radiators to use for the 914 are from Afco and C&R racing.
The afco 80133n is stocked by Summit racing and cost about $250 This is the C&R modified and can be ordered direct from them. A little higher at $325 or so the last time I checked. It comes with a screw in intake hose for the high pressure side. They will also custom build this for any size you need for a little more. Also a good source for the Fans and shroud is a set up from the last Chrysler front wheel drive New Yorkers. These have a dual fan set up on a nice shroud that is a easy mod to fit any radiator. One of the fan motors have a low and high speed winding. Easy to find at the pick and pulls for $20 |
andys |
Apr 1 2010, 09:35 AM
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#10
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,165 Joined: 21-May 03 From: Valencia, CA Member No.: 721 Region Association: None |
I'm using the 80133N from Afco. Nice because it has the filler deleted. It was originally designed for an ASA car.
Andys |
computers4kids |
Apr 1 2010, 10:02 AM
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#11
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Love these little cars! Group: Members Posts: 2,443 Joined: 11-June 05 From: Port Townsend, WA Member No.: 4,253 Region Association: None |
I also think that I get a cycling of the thermostat opening and closing causing my temp to fluctuate Several water cooled guys I've met do not run thermostats. Is this because of the "fluctuating" mentioned? I assumed the fluctuating was more about the fans cycling on and off. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) |
smrz914 |
Apr 1 2010, 01:00 PM
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#12
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Soon to be brightening the life of the person behind you. Group: Members Posts: 456 Joined: 21-April 03 From: Pleasant Hill, CA or Chico, CA Member No.: 596 |
I also think that I get a cycling of the thermostat opening and closing causing my temp to fluctuate Several water cooled guys I've met do not run thermostats. Is this because of the "fluctuating" mentioned? I assumed the fluctuating was more about the fans cycling on and off. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) I tried that but it took forever for the engine to heat up, and that is no fun on a cold day. |
Phoenix-MN |
Apr 1 2010, 01:27 PM
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#13
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 927 Joined: 23-January 04 From: ST. Bonifacius,MN Member No.: 1,590 |
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JJ914GT |
Apr 1 2010, 02:24 PM
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#14
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Member Group: Members Posts: 171 Joined: 21-May 09 From: Amsterdam Member No.: 10,386 Region Association: Europe |
Radiator from a Peugeot Diesel:
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pktzygt |
Apr 1 2010, 04:35 PM
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#15
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Member Group: Members Posts: 328 Joined: 20-March 07 From: Chesapeake, VA Member No.: 7,611 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
Radiator from a Peugeot Diesel: Ohhhh, there's an idea. Now we just have to find a Peugeot Diesel over here to pull the radiator out of. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) I eventually plan on doing hard pipes like the ones you have. |
Mike Bellis |
Apr 1 2010, 11:00 PM
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#16
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Resident Electrician Group: Members Posts: 8,345 Joined: 22-June 09 From: Midlothian TX Member No.: 10,496 Region Association: None |
I also think that I get a cycling of the thermostat opening and closing causing my temp to fluctuate Several water cooled guys I've met do not run thermostats. Is this because of the "fluctuating" mentioned? I assumed the fluctuating was more about the fans cycling on and off. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) My temp cycles too. 150 while driving, 180 sitting still. My fan does not come on below 180. I wish I could keep it at 180 all the time. |
Bruce Hinds |
Apr 1 2010, 11:15 PM
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#17
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V-8 madness Group: Members Posts: 733 Joined: 27-December 06 From: Port Orchard, WA Member No.: 7,391 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
Several water cooled guys I've met do not run thermostats. Is this because of the "fluctuating" mentioned? I assumed the fluctuating was more about the fans cycling on and off. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) [/quote] there's something called a high flow thermostat, it has small bypass holes around outer edges that allow a little flow so the coolant doesn't have to cycle so often... seems to work better. |
BRAVE_HELIOS |
Oct 9 2010, 08:47 AM
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#18
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"Knowledge speaks, wisdom listens" Group: Members Posts: 295 Joined: 25-September 06 From: The Land Of ID! Member No.: 6,920 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
..... Also a good source for the Fans and shroud is a set up from the last Chrysler front wheel drive New Yorkers. These have a dual fan set up on a nice shroud that is a easy mod to fit any radiator. One of the fan motors have a low and high speed winding. Easy to find at the pick and pulls for $20
[/quote] At this point I think I'm going to purchase the AFCO 80133N radiator. I believe there is an advantage to the double pass radiator not having a filler neck and having the drain petcock at the very top. Will the Chrysler fan setup fit on the AFCO radiator? Do you know how many CFM the fan setup flows? Thanks. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) |
stewteral |
Oct 9 2010, 11:20 AM
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#19
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Old Member Group: Members Posts: 384 Joined: 4-December 07 From: Camarillo, CA Member No.: 8,424 Region Association: Southern California |
Ok V8 guys, what type of radiators did you use? I know Renegade sells a kit that works, but $1100 is a budget buster. Already have the dual fans to use, so don't need them. Looking for ideas/suggestions/sources. Thanks. Hey Kyracedog, I've been running my 914 V8 on-track for some 7 years. It has a 500 HP 383 and I've been running a SUMMIT RACING $160 aluminum Camaro radiator (SUM-380331). It is 31" x 19" and with a little hammer "massaging" fits nicely between the head light boxes. It is a single pass radiator and according to my engineer bud, gives MAX efficiency by presenting the Highest Delta-T to the airflow (the hotter the water presented to cooling air, the more efficient the heat exchange). With a dual pass, the 1st pass is efficient, but the 2nd pass is cooler and less efficient. I'm afraid I know Scottie all too well at Renegade and there is NO engineering talent there. They don't know how to do "research." They don't make any of their parts for the conversion kits and when my engineer bud visited the Las Vegas shop, found nothing but an open bay and hand tools. Their work is "back yard mechanic", at best. Scottie bought the company from the original founder and is just "turning the crank" to make $$.....IMO. Scottie's "profession" before Renegade was as a Disc Jockey. As a rule of thumb, if your conversion is modest power, 300 - 400 HP, you can probably be OK with venting the radiator air through the fender wells as most do. However, if you are going 400HP+or live in a hot climate (I run at Willow Springs in the HOT upper desert of SOCAL), I found out the "hard-way" (or would you call that "Research?" (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) ) that venting out through the hood is THE ANSWER. I posted my finding on the paddock forum a few months back. Regardless, be sure to CONTROL the airflow with ducting to assure ALL goes through the radiator. I my experiences can help you, Terry Attached image(s) |
BRAVE_HELIOS |
Oct 9 2010, 12:09 PM
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#20
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"Knowledge speaks, wisdom listens" Group: Members Posts: 295 Joined: 25-September 06 From: The Land Of ID! Member No.: 6,920 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
Ok V8 guys, what type of radiators did you use? I know Renegade sells a kit that works, but $1100 is a budget buster. Already have the dual fans to use, so don't need them. Looking for ideas/suggestions/sources. Thanks. Hey Kyracedog, I've been running my 914 V8 on-track for some 7 years. It has a 500 HP 383 and I've been running a SUMMIT RACING $160 aluminum Camaro radiator (SUM-380331). It is 31" x 19" and with a little hammer "massaging" fits nicely between the head light boxes. It is a single pass radiator and according to my engineer bud, gives MAX efficiency by presenting the Highest Delta-T to the airflow (the hotter the water presented to cooling air, the more efficient the heat exchange). With a dual pass, the 1st pass is efficient, but the 2nd pass is cooler and less efficient. I'm afraid I know Scottie all too well at Renegade and there is NO engineering talent there. They don't know how to do "research." They don't make any of their parts for the conversion kits and when my engineer bud visited the Las Vegas shop, found nothing but an open bay and hand tools. Their work is "back yard mechanic", at best. Scottie bought the company from the original founder and is just "turning the crank" to make $$.....IMO. Scottie's "profession" before Renegade was as a Disc Jockey. As a rule of thumb, if your conversion is modest power, 300 - 400 HP, you can probably be OK with venting the radiator air through the fender wells as most do. However, if you are going 400HP+or live in a hot climate (I run at Willow Springs in the HOT upper desert of SOCAL), I found out the "hard-way" (or would you call that "Research?" (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) ) that venting out through the hood is THE ANSWER. I posted my finding on the paddock forum a few months back. Regardless, be sure to CONTROL the airflow with ducting to assure ALL goes through the radiator. I my experiences can help you, Terry I think I understand the part about the Delta T of the air moving past the fins and cooling tubes (or is that the Delta T of the coolant). But how does it (the cooling effect) become less efficient when the coolant essentially passes though the radiator twice... say if the single pass and the double pass radiators are both 2 core? Does it have to do with the rate of change (Delta T). Also, how does the frontal area of the raiator come into play? I read that to get that number, you multiply the CID of the engine by 1.5.... so a 350 would need about 525 sq. inches of frontal radiator area. It does sound like that if a single pass cross-flow radiator works for your 500hp setup, it should work for my 250hp setup. What type of fans are you using? |
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