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> Hell hole repair, anybody done this??
bare 1
post Apr 3 2010, 11:37 AM
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So what are the pros and cons of simply welding a flat plate here? Just the bottom of the hole is rusted. sides are good. Make it a shelf instead of a hole. Much easier repair instead of following all those curves but what about structural integrity??? I'm not a purist I just want a solid driver.
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realred914
post Apr 3 2010, 11:43 AM
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QUOTE(bare 1 @ Apr 3 2010, 10:37 AM) *

So what are the pros and cons of simply welding a flat plate here? Just the bottom of the hole is rusted. sides are good. Make it a shelf instead of a hole. Much easier repair instead of following all those curves but what about structural integrity??? I'm not a purist I just want a solid driver.



some photos would help.

if the hole is small, you cant determine how bad it is under the hole, patching up top may not be good idea if it is bad below. if the hole is big you cna more esialy see what is going on below.

you got to remember to remove /nuetralize any spilled acid that is in the hole, else it will keep rusting away.


send some photos so we can see what you are dealing with. look under the car for any signs of bubbled thru paint under the floor pan and on the rocker /floor seem
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dr914@autoatlanta.com
post Apr 3 2010, 11:44 AM
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QUOTE(bare 1 @ Apr 3 2010, 10:37 AM) *

So what are the pros and cons of simply welding a flat plate here? Just the bottom of the hole is rusted. sides are good. Make it a shelf instead of a hole. Much easier repair instead of following all those curves but what about structural integrity??? I'm not a purist I just want a solid driver.


It takes as much labor to fix it improperly as it does properly and properly means that the job is done once and for all and the car is in the long run more valuable
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realred914
post Apr 3 2010, 11:50 AM
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QUOTE(dr914@autoatlanta.com @ Apr 3 2010, 10:44 AM) *

QUOTE(bare 1 @ Apr 3 2010, 10:37 AM) *

So what are the pros and cons of simply welding a flat plate here? Just the bottom of the hole is rusted. sides are good. Make it a shelf instead of a hole. Much easier repair instead of following all those curves but what about structural integrity??? I'm not a purist I just want a solid driver.


It takes as much labor to fix it improperly as it does properly and properly means that the job is done once and for all and the car is in the long run more valuable



no, it takes very little labour to fix it improper like. just slap down a hammered sheet of steel and rivit or screw it in place. a quick smear of bondo, and paint and your done with an improper repair in a few short hours or less.

to do it right takes much much more labour and talent.


you can do it either way or some thing inbetween. budget time and skill levels will determine what is done. a quick cosmetic reapir may not last long, but then again some times they do last long
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bare 1
post Apr 3 2010, 11:55 AM
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QUOTE(dr914@autoatlanta.com @ Apr 3 2010, 10:44 AM) *

QUOTE(bare 1 @ Apr 3 2010, 10:37 AM) *

So what are the pros and cons of simply welding a flat plate here? Just the bottom of the hole is rusted. sides are good. Make it a shelf instead of a hole. Much easier repair instead of following all those curves but what about structural integrity??? I'm not a purist I just want a solid driver.


It takes as much labor to fix it improperly as it does properly and properly means that the job is done once and for all and the car is in the long run more valuable
Yes George I've seen your catolog. But the drawings for repair panel for the particular place I'm interested in seem rather vague. I don't need that whole piece by the engine. Just the hole itself. Sorry pics are not an option at his time. This isn't going to be a rotisserie job Don't have the time ,energy, facilitys or money. I just want to drive my car with out it self destructing.
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jimkelly
post Apr 3 2010, 12:13 PM
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you MUST see this.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=16748

jim
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Gint
post Apr 3 2010, 12:17 PM
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The bottom of the hell hole is actually the top of the long (the longitudinal is a structural member, or frame rail if you will) as it curves up and over the wheel well. If you just welded a flat plate across the top (at least the way I interpreted your question), the hole in the long would remain. And likely get larger. And larger, and...
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type47
post Apr 3 2010, 02:32 PM
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QUOTE(Gint @ Apr 3 2010, 10:17 AM) *

And likely get larger. And larger, and...

...self destructing. I would think you have to remove the drive train anyway to do the repair you asked about.
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bare 1
post Apr 3 2010, 02:35 PM
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QUOTE(jimkelly @ Apr 3 2010, 11:13 AM) *

Extraordinary !!!!! That post answered alot of questions and made a lot more Like am I up for this??? WOW Thanks
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Katmanken
post Apr 3 2010, 04:11 PM
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Once the hole gets started, it dumps water and the acid into the right longitudinal box beam, and there goes your main front to rear support for the car.

At the very least, poke around to see how far it has spread, and take pictures through the hole of the inside of the longitudinal beam.

Did the camera trick with my junker. Couldn't see into the rocker myself but the small digital camera could.

Then post the pics.
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EdwardBlume
post Apr 3 2010, 07:29 PM
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What you see and what is actually rusted are two different things. Pull it all out, get in there, get it fixed, paint it and move on.. anything less is a trick bag IMHO...
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McMark
post Apr 3 2010, 07:32 PM
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Yup, pictures would help.

Here's my hell hole repair.
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