 Basic Maintenance Threads?, do they exist?? |
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| rwilner |
 Apr 8 2010, 09:40 AM
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#1
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No Ghosts in the Machine  Group: Members Posts: 953 Joined: 30-March 10 From: Boston, MA Member No.: 11,530 Region Association: North East States  |
I'm about to purchase my first 914 and am wondering if there are any basic routine maintenance threads available, for example:
Normally I'd just go in and muck about...but breaking clips, lenses, and screws on a 36 year old car may make for expensive and lengthy replacements. I've done some searching for this stuff and come up empty so I apologize in advance if I missed it. It could be because there's a book or two that all you guys have that I need to buy that covers all this stuff. Thanks and looking forward to joining the madness! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) Rich |
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| TROJANMAN |
Apr 8 2010, 09:42 AM
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#2
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Looks nice in pictures......... Group: Members Posts: 5,271 Joined: 5-March 04 From: Colorado Member No.: 1,753 Region Association: None |
Haynes is your friend
Or you could try the search function Or you could check here Good luck with your purchase....... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) |
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| Cap'n Krusty |
Apr 8 2010, 11:47 AM
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#3
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Cap'n Krusty Group: Members Posts: 10,794 Joined: 24-June 04 From: Santa Maria, CA Member No.: 2,246 Region Association: Central California |
In moderate weather, 20w50, a Mann, Mahle, or Hengst filter, NEVER anything else. I consider it important to drop and clean the sump screen at each oil change. The valves should be adjusted when you change the oil, about every 3000 miles. Be careful when you reinstall the screen and cover, the torque on the nut is not more than 11 ft/lbs! The valve adjustment procedure is found in the classic forum, here at the World. Cabin air filters first appeared in cars about 20 years after the 914 was built, so I would guess you don't have to spend a lot of time worrying about that. Bosch or NGK plugs (W7CC, B6ES), Bosch points (01 011) and cap and rotor. Points and plugs every other oil change/valve adjustment, cap and rotor as needed, condenser (again, Bosch only!) only when the points show pretty severe pitting. There are 914s out there running the original condenser. Brake fluid (DOT 4) every 2 years, tranny oil when you feel you just HAVE to do it (it doesn't wear out and get fulla crap like motor oil) and it's 89-90, 90, or 80/90-140 GL5 ONLY. No one-size-fits-all, and no MoSO2! No GL4! Headlight bulbs are held in place by 3 rusted in screws per bulb, accessible after the plastic cover is removed (2 screws). Other bulbs just twist in, like any other bayonet base bulb. Be SURE you get the right bulb. Match what you have, don't listen to the Bozo behind the parts counter. While we're on it, it's best to stick with genuine Bosch electrical components wherever they're used in the car. FLAPS guys will nearly always try to sell you cheap junk that doesn't fit. I recommend GPR, active participants on this site. Oh, torques, etc. Plugs get tightened until the crush ring crushes, points get sea ta .016" (dwell is 47 degrees +/- 2), timing for a D-jet car is 28 degrees BTDC at 2800 RPM, vacuum lines off and plugged. Plug gap is .028". Always remove the tranny filler plug (17mm inhex) BEFORE you drain it. If it's stuck, you can't refill the tranny. Synthetic gear oil is fine, but it costs a TON, and isn't really any better. Clutch adjustment is 19-22mm of free play when you PULL the pedal. Valve adjustment is .006" for all, unless you have a 2.0 with sodium filled exhaust valves, which are set at .008".
Oh, and (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png) The Cap'n |
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| flipb |
Apr 8 2010, 12:09 PM
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#4
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,722 Joined: 2-September 09 From: Fairfax, VA Member No.: 10,752 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region 
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/clap56.gif) Instant Classic!
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| rjames |
Apr 8 2010, 12:09 PM
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#5
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I'm made of metal Group: Members Posts: 3,936 Joined: 24-July 05 From: Shoreline, WA Member No.: 4,467 Region Association: Pacific Northwest
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QUOTE(Cap'n Krusty @ Apr 8 2010, 10:47 AM)  In moderate weather, 20w50, a Mann, Mahle, or Hengst filter, NEVER anything else. I consider it important to drop and clean the sump screen at each oil change. The valves should be adjusted when you change the oil, about every 3000 miles. Be careful when you reinstall the screen and cover, the torque on the nut is not more than 11 ft/lbs! The valve adjustment procedure is found in the classic forum, here at the World. Cabin air filters first appeared in cars about 20 years after the 914 was built, so I would guess you don't have to spend a lot of time worrying about that. Bosch or NGK plugs (W7CC, B6ES), Bosch points (01 011) and cap and rotor. Points and plugs every other oil change/valve adjustment, cap and rotor as needed, condenser (again, Bosch only!) only when the points show pretty severe pitting. There are 914s out there running the original condenser. Brake fluid (DOT 4) every 2 years, tranny oil when you feel you just HAVE to do it (it doesn't wear out and get fulla crap like motor oil) and it's 89-90, 90, or 80/90-140 GL5 ONLY. No one-size-fits-all, and no MoSO2! No GL4! Headlight bulbs are held in place by 3 rusted in screws per bulb, accessible after the plastic cover is removed (2 screws). Other bulbs just twist in, like any other bayonet base bulb. Be SURE you get the right bulb. Match what you have, don't listen to the Bozo behind the parts counter. While we're on it, it's best to stick with genuine Bosch electrical components wherever they're used in the car. FLAPS guys will nearly always try to sell you cheap junk that doesn't fit. I recommend GPR, active participants on this site. Oh, torques, etc. Plugs get tightened until the crush ring crushes, points get sea ta .016" (dwell is 47 degrees +/- 2), timing for a D-jet car is 28 degrees BTDC at 2800 RPM, vacuum lines off and plugged. Plug gap is .028". Always remove the tranny filler plug (17mm inhex) BEFORE you drain it. If it's stuck, you can't refill the tranny. Synthetic gear oil is fine, but it costs a TON, and isn't really any better. Clutch adjustment is 19-22mm of free play when you PULL the pedal. Valve adjustment is .006" for all, unless you have a 2.0 with sodium filled exhaust valves, which are set at .008". Oh, and (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png) The Cap'n That's a kick-ass welcome! Don't forget: (IMG:style_emoticons/default/thisthreadisworthlesswithoutpics.gif) |
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| KELTY360 |
Apr 8 2010, 12:14 PM
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#6
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914 Neferati Group: Members Posts: 5,031 Joined: 31-December 05 From: Pt. Townsend, WA Member No.: 5,344 Region Association: Pacific Northwest
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QUOTE(Cap'n Krusty @ Apr 8 2010, 10:47 AM) In moderate weather, 20w50, a Mann, Mahle, or Hengst filter, NEVER anything else. I consider it important to drop and clean the sump screen at each oil change. The valves should be adjusted when you change the oil, about every 3000 miles. Be careful when you reinstall the screen and cover, the torque on the nut is not more than 11 ft/lbs! The valve adjustment procedure is found in the classic forum, here at the World. Cabin air filters first appeared in cars about 20 years after the 914 was built, so I would guess you don't have to spend a lot of time worrying about that. Bosch or NGK plugs (W7CC, B6ES), Bosch points (01 011) and cap and rotor. Points and plugs every other oil change/valve adjustment, cap and rotor as needed, condenser (again, Bosch only!) only when the points show pretty severe pitting. There are 914s out there running the original condenser. Brake fluid (DOT 4) every 2 years, tranny oil when you feel you just HAVE to do it (it doesn't wear out and get fulla crap like motor oil) and it's 89-90, 90, or 80/90-140 GL5 ONLY. No one-size-fits-all, and no MoSO2! No GL4! Headlight bulbs are held in place by 3 rusted in screws per bulb, accessible after the plastic cover is removed (2 screws). Other bulbs just twist in, like any other bayonet base bulb. Be SURE you get the right bulb. Match what you have, don't listen to the Bozo behind the parts counter. While we're on it, it's best to stick with genuine Bosch electrical components wherever they're used in the car. FLAPS guys will nearly always try to sell you cheap junk that doesn't fit. I recommend GPR, active participants on this site. Oh, torques, etc. Plugs get tightened until the crush ring crushes, points get sea ta .016" (dwell is 47 degrees +/- 2), timing for a D-jet car is 28 degrees BTDC at 2800 RPM, vacuum lines off and plugged. Plug gap is .028". Always remove the tranny filler plug (17mm inhex) BEFORE you drain it. If it's stuck, you can't refill the tranny. Synthetic gear oil is fine, but it costs a TON, and isn't really any better. Clutch adjustment is 19-22mm of free play when you PULL the pedal. Valve adjustment is .006" for all, unless you have a 2.0 with sodium filled exhaust valves, which are set at .008". Oh, and (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png) The Cap'n (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif) Great reply! Just one question: what do I do if my headlight screws aren't rusted? |
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| jaxdream |
Apr 8 2010, 12:55 PM
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#7
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 974 Joined: 8-July 08 From: North Central Tennessee Member No.: 9,270 Region Association: South East States |
I'm sure someone here can get those rusty screws out to ya , if no replies , I believe I have a pile I could send to you in case you can't find any around the garage!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif)
Jack / Jaxdream |
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| jaxdream |
Apr 8 2010, 12:57 PM
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#8
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 974 Joined: 8-July 08 From: North Central Tennessee Member No.: 9,270 Region Association: South East States |
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| rwilner |
Apr 8 2010, 01:09 PM
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#9
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No Ghosts in the Machine Group: Members Posts: 953 Joined: 30-March 10 From: Boston, MA Member No.: 11,530 Region Association: North East States |
QUOTE(Cap'n Krusty @ Apr 8 2010, 01:47 PM) Bosch or NGK plugs (W7CC, B6ES), Bosch points (01 011) and cap and rotor. Points and plugs every other oil change/valve adjustment The car I'm looking at had a points to electronic conversion so I won't have to deal with that (unless I buy a different car or swap back to points). Valve adjustment every 6k miles?!? Plugs every other oil change?!? Guess I'm going to get good at finding TDC... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) |
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| tat2dphreak |
Apr 8 2010, 01:10 PM
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#10
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stoya, stoya, stoya Group: Benefactors Posts: 8,797 Joined: 6-June 03 From: Wylie, TX Member No.: 792 Region Association: Southwest Region  |
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| rwilner |
Apr 8 2010, 01:10 PM
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#11
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No Ghosts in the Machine Group: Members Posts: 953 Joined: 30-March 10 From: Boston, MA Member No.: 11,530 Region Association: North East States |
QUOTE I haven't bought a car yet but if all goes well it will be in my garage on monday! That's assuming I can source a 7-pin trailer wiring harness for my truck either today or tomorrow... |
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| ellisor3 |
Apr 8 2010, 01:13 PM
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#12
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HPWhore Group: Members Posts: 811 Joined: 23-October 08 From: Fleming Island, Florida Member No.: 9,683 Region Association: South East States  |
Copy straight to Wikipedia (IMG:style_emoticons/default/pray.gif)
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| MDG |
Apr 8 2010, 01:25 PM
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#13
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Wolf in wolf's clothing. Group: Members Posts: 8,652 Joined: 3-February 09 From: Toronto Member No.: 10,018 Region Association: None |
who needs a Haynes covered in greasy fingerprints!
One for the classics for sure. Thank you Cap'n (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) |
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| markb |
Apr 8 2010, 01:44 PM
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#14
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914less :( Group: Members Posts: 5,449 Joined: 22-January 03 From: Nipomo, CA Member No.: 180 Region Association: Central California
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png)
This may be one of the most frustrating cars you'll ever own, but it's really hard to keep an ear-to-ear grin off of your face when you're driving. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) Oh, and they are *never* done. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) Enjoy, and if you have any questions, call the 800 number. We love these cars, and are always ready to shoot the (IMG:style_emoticons/default/stromberg.gif) with another owner. |
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| jimkelly |
Apr 8 2010, 01:45 PM
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#15
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Delaware USA Group: Members Posts: 4,969 Joined: 5-August 04 From: Delaware, USA Member No.: 2,460 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
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| Cap'n Krusty |
Apr 8 2010, 01:47 PM
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#16
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Cap'n Krusty Group: Members Posts: 10,794 Joined: 24-June 04 From: Santa Maria, CA Member No.: 2,246 Region Association: Central California |
QUOTE(rwilner @ Apr 8 2010, 12:09 PM) QUOTE(Cap'n Krusty @ Apr 8 2010, 01:47 PM) Bosch or NGK plugs (W7CC, B6ES), Bosch points (01 011) and cap and rotor. Points and plugs every other oil change/valve adjustment The car I'm looking at had a points to electronic conversion so I won't have to deal with that (unless I buy a different car or swap back to points). Valve adjustment every 6k miles?!? Plugs every other oil change?!? Guess I'm going to get good at finding TDC... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) Read it again. Valves every 3K miles, along with the oil change. The Cap'n |
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| Cap'n Krusty |
Apr 8 2010, 01:56 PM
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#17
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Cap'n Krusty Group: Members Posts: 10,794 Joined: 24-June 04 From: Santa Maria, CA Member No.: 2,246 Region Association: Central California |
QUOTE(jimkelly @ Apr 8 2010, 12:45 PM) Hey! I just followed that link, and it leads you to the Pelican Parts easy valve adjustment procedure, difficulty level 3. Right off the bat, he tells you to support one side of the car by placing a jack stand under the engine support crossbar. BAD ADVICE. He follows that with a description of what has to be the most difficult and labor intensive scheme for adjusting the valves I've ever read. Some of us sell parts, and others of us wrench on 914s (and other Porsches) for a living. I hope the other articles are more closely related to reality .................................. The Cap'n |
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| oz371 |
Apr 8 2010, 02:36 PM
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#18
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Member Group: Members Posts: 101 Joined: 28-August 09 From: ontario, CA Member No.: 10,739 Region Association: None |
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/type.gif) I printed it, framed it, and hung it on every wall in the house! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/pray.gif)
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| rwilner |
Apr 8 2010, 05:08 PM
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#19
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No Ghosts in the Machine Group: Members Posts: 953 Joined: 30-March 10 From: Boston, MA Member No.: 11,530 Region Association: North East States |
QUOTE Read it again. Valves every 3K miles, along with the oil change. The Cap'n Even better! |
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| rwilner |
Apr 8 2010, 05:10 PM
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#20
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No Ghosts in the Machine Group: Members Posts: 953 Joined: 30-March 10 From: Boston, MA Member No.: 11,530 Region Association: North East States |
QUOTE(Cap'n Krusty @ Apr 8 2010, 03:56 PM) Hey! I just followed that link, and it leads you to the Pelican Parts easy valve adjustment procedure, difficulty level 3. Right off the bat, he tells you to support one side of the car by placing a jack stand under the engine support crossbar. BAD ADVICE. He follows that with a description of what has to be the most difficult and labor intensive scheme for adjusting the valves I've ever read. Some of us sell parts, and others of us wrench on 914s (and other Porsches) for a living. I hope the other articles are more closely related to reality .................................. The Cap'n So Cap'n...the $914 is....what is the RIGHT procedure? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif) |
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