CV Joint, What's with the lip? Options

[stephenaki]

OK, so I pulled both joints and just finished cleaning up the one. I re-assembled based on the thread in the classic forum.
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i273.photobucket.com-7987-1270825919.1.jpg)

Someone assuage my fears and tell me I put it back together correctly! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/KMA.gif)

So I also read the portion about re-assembling and the concave washer so here is my question. First, I DID NOT pull the entire axle out of the car. Now, the Cap'n mentioned a good sturdy socket and wack the circlip until it seats. Since the axle is not out of the car, is this still a good method OR, did I screw myself and now will have to pull the rest of the assembly out of the car? Suggestions on getting it back on and seating the circlip would be highly appreciated!

Gonna go clean up the second CV and re-assemble it; will check back later to see if anyone has any suggestions. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)

[Eric_Shea]

yup.

[stephenaki]

yup.

Thanks Eric.

Next question, and I think I already know the answer. Toast??

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i273.photobucket.com-7987-1270828304.1.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i273.photobucket.com-7987-1270828304.2.jpg)

The other one was OK and had some minor wear but there is some serious pitting in this one! Its the Driver's side assembly. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/huh.gif)

[realred914]

i'd get a new one. that one could last a while more, but if you reuse it, you wont get too many more miles out of it. unless your doing an emergency repair, you should replace that one.

be sure to use brand new snap rings, the best ring is a real snap ring with the holes to you use for the spreading pliers, the stock rings do not have this, and hence are harder to install.

Do NOT bang on teh end of teh axle when one side is still installed, you will be tranfering teh blows to the oppostie joint, and that can damage them, break the cage or ding the balls.

frankly you might as well clean inspect and repack both sides of the axle at once, eventually they all need to be serviced, adn it is easiest to both at teh same time out of the car.
you want to keep up the cleanliness and grease on these joints seeing as they are now out of production and getting very expensive. ignore service ont hem and they will fail much much faster

[stephenaki]

i'd get a new one. that one could last a while more, but if you reuse it, you wont get too many more miles out of it. unless your doing an emergency repair, you should replace that one.

be sure to use brand new snap rings, the best ring is a real snap ring with the holes to you use for the spreading pliers, the stock rings do not have this, and hence are harder to install.

Do NOT bang on teh end of teh axle when one side is still installed, you will be tranfering teh blows to the oppostie joint, and that can damage them, break the cage or ding the balls.

frankly you might as well clean inspect and repack both sides of the axle at once, eventually they all need to be serviced, adn it is easiest to both at teh same time out of the car.
you want to keep up the cleanliness and grease on these joints seeing as they are now out of production and getting very expensive. ignore service ont hem and they will fail much much faster

Well, that sucks. Guess I'll go and pull the rest of the assembly out tomorrow and see what I find. This should be fun...not. Anyone know where I can get CV joints? Eric, I saw your kit but I already have everything except the new washer's and circlips; do you just the CV joints?

[realred914]

i'd get a new one. that one could last a while more, but if you reuse it, you wont get too many more miles out of it. unless your doing an emergency repair, you should replace that one.

be sure to use brand new snap rings, the best ring is a real snap ring with the holes to you use for the spreading pliers, the stock rings do not have this, and hence are harder to install.

Do NOT bang on teh end of teh axle when one side is still installed, you will be tranfering teh blows to the oppostie joint, and that can damage them, break the cage or ding the balls.

frankly you might as well clean inspect and repack both sides of the axle at once, eventually they all need to be serviced, adn it is easiest to both at teh same time out of the car.
you want to keep up the cleanliness and grease on these joints seeing as they are now out of production and getting very expensive. ignore service ont hem and they will fail much much faster

Well, that sucks. Guess I'll go and pull the rest of the assembly out tomorrow and see what I find. This should be fun...not. Anyone know where I can get CV joints? Eric, I saw your kit but I already have everything except the new washer's and circlips; do you just the CV joints?

your in germany???? cant really help you source a CV there. I'd try High Perfromance house out in california 650-364-6234 They had some good used ones a while ago, I bought one of his complete axle assemblys a while ago but he did not have too many left of these (brand new!) he certainly has some used ones. They shoudl also have the clips and washers you need. you always must use new lock washers.

shipping and VAT tax may or may not make it worth it to ship it over there.

[Eric_Shea]

Toast??

Yup. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[Eric_Shea]

do you just the CV joints?

Nope. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

Actually, the kit components don't add much more to the cost which is why we do them that way. Meaning; if I did just CV's they'd be around the same price.

[IronHillRestorations]

I have 3 NOS Lobro CV's if you are interested, $130 ea. Not cheap, but they are real 914 CV's.

[stephenaki]

do you just the CV joints?

Nope. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

Actually, the kit components don't add much more to the cost which is why we do them that way. Meaning; if I did just CV's they'd be around the same price.

Gotcha! I am checking a local German supplier here; since I am going to pull the whole assembly and check I'll wait to see how many I may need. If the local guy doesn't have anything then I'll order what I need from you in the complete kit and just hold onto the other stuff for spare parts. I think I'm heading down the 'while the motor's out' curse... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

[amphiduck]

Definitely an amateur at this, but from the looks of the picture, it seems that the inner "spider" with the threads is on backwards. Notice the shiny ring on the inside where the cupped washer has pressed against. I just did the same thing to my car and had a very difficult time trying to put the original circlip back on. Go to youtube.com and look up "porsche 914 cv joint rebuild" it helped a lot.

[stephenaki]

your in germany???? cant really help you source a CV there. I'd try High Perfromance house out in california 650-364-6234 They had some good used ones a while ago, I bought one of his complete axle assemblys a while ago but he did not have too many left of these (brand new!) he certainly has some used ones. They shoudl also have the clips and washers you need. you always must use new lock washers.

shipping and VAT tax may or may not make it worth it to ship it over there.

Shipping is not an issue since I am military, I have an APO box which means stuff is shipped to NJ via normal USPS and then put onto either a military aircraft or ship and brought over. Costs me to ship here what it would cost in the states.

[stephenaki]

I have 3 NOS Lobro CV's if you are interested, $130 ea. Not cheap, but they are real 914 CV's.

Thanks, will consider it when I finish evaluating the rest of the setup.

[Mark Henry]

Down and dirty check, pull the cage and balls run your finger in the grooves and if you feel a divet they are junk.
Why clean the garbage.

No divet then they are worth cleaning for a 2nd look.

[stephenaki]

So, after beating the living hell out of the castellated nut on the right side of the vehicle she came loose. Took my drift and tapped out the axle and she came out with ease. Unfortunately, the left side nut is not budging! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mad.gif) I have soaked it in penetrating oil and pounded the the hell out of the 30mm socket and 12" extension to no avail! I finally called it quits for the day, need to do some homework.

Hornbach rents tools so I will see if they have a sturdy 1/2 inch electric impact wrench I can rent next week. Maybe the break will let the nut loosen. In the meantime, I'll go ahead and strip the outside CV joint on the axle I was able to pull out and do an inspection on it tomorrow.

Anyone have any recommendations on breaking the death grip on the castellated nut?

[Eric_Shea]

Lots of heat. Set a MAPP torch on it for 5 minutes. Do that about 4x before the 1/2". The heat cycling should help break the bond.

[stephenaki]

Lots of heat. Set a MAPP torch on it for 5 minutes. Do that about 4x before the 1/2". The heat cycling should help break the bond.

Will have to check and see if I can find a reasonable one here in Germany. Hornbach, OBI and TOOM all have a welding section maybe I can find one there. Thanks for the suggestion, I had heard of that before but had completely forgotten about it.

[veltror]

Remember if you need 914 parts and are in Germany you can always try Mittelmotor in Bochum, ask for Michale or Manuel bothe speak Englidh perfectly... unless of course your Germin ist gut...

[stephenaki]

Remember if you need 914 parts and are in Germany you can always try Mittelmotor in Bochum, ask for Michale or Manuel bothe speak Englidh perfectly... unless of course your Germin ist gut...

Mein Deutsch ist nicht sehr gut! Mittelmotor ist sehr weit entfernt; Ich habe eine genauere Person.

Altavista babelfish is your friend! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) There is a guy about an hour from me or less that I am picking up two complete axles from for 100 euro. That should give me enough parts to make sure I have four good CV joints.

I pulled the outside joint off this afternoon and did Mark Henry's test, this CV is good. Now, once I pull off the other axle I'll check that outside one as well. The goal is to make sure I have the best of the 6 total CV joints that I will have in my possession to put back into the car. Hadn't thought I was going to have to mess with the suspension this early on but I am learning a lot from it especially with the help of this fantastic group of people. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif)

[ChrisFoley]

Anyone have any recommendations on breaking the death grip on the castellated nut?

I broke a 1/2" breaker bar trying to remove one of those nuts before. Now I use a 3/4" breaker bar and a long piece of pipe over the handle. Proper torque on the nuts is about 200ft-lbs and I have needed twice that to remove a couple of them.

I install 2 lug nuts and use an axle shaft from them to a block of wood on the floor to keep the wheel hub from rotating. The parking brake or the weight of the car isn't sufficient to resist the required force for nut removal.