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> My Brake Hose Education, Replace 'em
Porsche Rescue
post Apr 24 2010, 03:55 PM
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I have often read on this forum that you can't evaluate rubber brake lines from the outside.

Even though the hoses on my '70 looked good, no cracks, etc., I knew they were 40 years old (they have the year of manufacture on the outside). I just replaced all four. I cut the rears with a razor knife to use a 17mm socket to remove. As I had often heard, they deteriorate and close up on the inside. I cannot blow through this one at all. I can't imagine very much fluid was flowing to the caliper, if any. As soon as I bleed them I expect a test drive to show much better brakes with less pedal effort...and have a safer car. First time I have replaced the hoses on a 914 and I have owned about 15 of them in the last 10 years!
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corsepervita
post Apr 24 2010, 04:16 PM
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HOLY MOLY!
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amphiduck
post Apr 24 2010, 04:18 PM
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Geez, that makes me want to take a look at mine...
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markb
post Apr 24 2010, 04:49 PM
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QUOTE(amphiduck @ Apr 24 2010, 03:18 PM) *

Geez, that makes me want to take a look at mine...

Good! That may be the safest thing you could do for yourself & your 914. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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swood
post Apr 24 2010, 04:50 PM
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Looks like my arteries.

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Cap'n Krusty
post Apr 24 2010, 05:12 PM
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The biggest problem with constricted hoses in not fluid flowing toward the calipers, it's fluid not flowing away from them. Brake drag results, and pad/rotor wear accelerates.

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rick 918-S
post Apr 24 2010, 05:19 PM
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Yep, I have a full brake hose replacement planned for both the Alien and Abby before any serious use this year! Both car likely have the original hoses. Eeek! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/unsure.gif)
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Cairo94507
post Apr 24 2010, 06:07 PM
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Boy, that scares the brake fluid out of me.

That was one of the considerations for my deciding not to try to get my six on the road for the summer. The right front brake was dragging badly and I figured the brake system needed to be completely gone through i.e., master cylinder, calipers, rotors, e-brake, and SS brake lines.

So then I thought well the pedal cluster probably needs new bushings....

Then I realized the fuel system would be toast so new SS lines, tank restored, etc.

Then I thought well I can't really drive it with all of the oil that is leaking out of it, and these leaks re-define the word leak; more like a severed artery-really.

Then I was like well the tires are crap with sidewall rot, so some replacement tires just for the summer.

When I started to do the math I was like $4K seems likely. So I decided it would be better to leave it parked and covered and just plan for the restoration in 2012..... So, my six sits in my garage where it is hibernating under a covered.

If I could just hit the lotto or something I would get the restoration started immediately. I mean I am not greedy; say maybe 5 million would be good enough. Heck I might even buy another one and restore it too. Unfortunately, I have a mouth full of teeth, can read and write so probably no chance on the lotto thing. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif)
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Lennies914
post Apr 24 2010, 06:59 PM
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Ordering me some new lines today. Thanks for the tip. I've replaced everything BUT the hoses.
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Porsche Rescue
post Apr 24 2010, 08:17 PM
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Lots of info on hose replacement on this forum which helped me a lot.
Here is what I did. First, I bought a good set of flare tube wrenches from Griots Garage (not expensive as most of their stuff is). You will need a good 11 mm flare wrench.
The fronts are easy. Didn't even remove the wheels to replace the hoses or to bleed (but I have a 4 post lift so easy to get to things).
Rears are the challenge. First I removed both heater valves. Then I applied PB Blaster to the retaining clips. I cracked the hose to caliper line first. Then I cut the hose as close as possible to the other end. Used the flare wrench and 17mm deep socket/long extension to break things loose. Removing the clip is the hard part. I grabbed the bent tab with vice grips and with much prying/wiggling/pulling they came off.
Re-install is easy. Hand turn the hose to attach to upper hard line. Then you can thread it through a 17 mm box and tighten with the flare wrench. After cleaning the retaining clip and lubing it a bit, it was easily tapped into place. Lastly, connect the hose to the caliper line and tighten. I then did remove the rear wheels for bleeding and checking/setting venting clearance.
The braking is much improved and requires far less pedal effort.
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Root_Werks
post Apr 27 2010, 09:36 AM
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