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> newbie--914 ownerr for 36 hours '75 1.8, 26 years in storage. Now what?
Dave_Darling
post May 16 2010, 11:33 AM
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The "Lapuwali classic threads" forum here has lots of good info, including stuff on brake rebuilding and the center tunnel fuel line replacement. My employer, Pelican Parts (http://www.pelicanparts.com) also has a good 914 Tech Articles section with good info in it.

As for engine swapping, you can swap any 914 engine into your car. The easiest swaps involve getting the whole engine, induction, and exhaust from your donor car, but you can also just swap the engine itself and use all of the external stuff from your engine.

Your L-jet system absolutely hates vacuum leaks, so check the large rubber "boot" that goes from the air flow meter to the throttle body for cracks. It loves to crack in between the pleats, and is NLA as far as I know. Also make sure the oil cap seals are in good shape, as the oil filler winds up under vacuum as well.

--DD
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almus
post May 16 2010, 12:32 PM
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>I read your post again, is the wrap you are talking about on the fuel lines? It could be a vaporlock attempted solution.

Yes. It was. I ripped it all off. It was very bush-league


My goal is to find a decent running (but very rusty) donor.
for things like wheels and maybe even tires, engine etc etc.

The car has very original looking tires (165-sr15s) Three of
which hold air.


I pulled and half disassembled one of the rear calipers. It was a bit tough,
but I was amazed how clean the piston was. Also the brake fluid looked
very good; clear with no bad color or rust.

Are replacement adjuster screws available? Mine responded
with some difficulty.

I found the how-to for the rear- calipers, but didn't see anything
for the emergency brake.

I am well acquainted with PB blaster---love the stuff.

Thanks for the good words.,

I will have many more questions.


-Almus
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carr914
post May 16 2010, 05:40 PM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png)

I would forget about finding a Rusty donor. If it's rusty, you don't want the tires and probably not the engine. But you can swap about any engine in there - 2.0, 6, V-8, Subie, Rotary, Electric.

Wheels & Tires are cheap compared to the tough stuff.

Get the S/S fuels lines from Tangerine

Change you existing oil, it's been sitting a long time.

Get in touch with Eric Shea (PMB) about rebuilt brake calipers
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almus
post May 16 2010, 06:15 PM
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Ideally I would find a 2.0 donor with alloy wheels that is rusty.

My car has the standard steel wheels. Tires are from the Pleistocene.

There are cars to be found that are orthogonal to mine;
running engine, drivable but more rust than base metal.
If the price is short---even if I get a few usable items
I may come out ahead (eg a working starter, gas tank
that doesn't need major rehab.... name brand alloys)
Even some parts to use as cores.


The oil looks *clean*--in fact new. ( I am going to drain it regardless) and
pull the engine. I will try turning it over manually.
It could be that the clutch plate is seized to the flywheel.
Similarly the brakes appear to have been done just prior
to it taking the 26 year nap. Rotors appear to have
very little wear. Pads appear *new*---calipers are
still seized.

I will get the stainless fuel lines

Thanks.
-A




QUOTE(carr914 @ May 16 2010, 07:40 PM) *

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png)

I would forget about finding a Rusty donor. If it's rusty, you don't want the tires and probably not the engine. But you can swap about any engine in there - 2.0, 6, V-8, Subie, Rotary, Electric.

Wheels & Tires are cheap compared to the tough stuff.

Get the S/S fuels lines from Tangerine

Change you existing oil, it's been sitting a long time.

Get in touch with Eric Shea (PMB) about rebuilt brake calipers

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