Wanted head sensor, Lokking for 73 Head Sensor Options

[fleblanc]

Hello,
I'm looking for Head sensor in good condition
part number is 0280 130 017,
Best regards,
Fred

[enikolayev]

Hi fred, I have a new head sensor that I bought from pelican and ended up not using.

Part number 0280 130 012

Pm me if you are interested.

[avidfanjpl]

Hey you guys,

Not to be a dick, but the 012 does not work with a 73 2.0L

Only the 017 does, and it is a bitch to find.

I found one but it took 6 months. Actually found 2, but one was not functional

Not sure if you mentioned 2.0L or not, but you did say 017, and many of us here know that 012's are not for 73 2.0L engines.

Makes them run rough and rich. Does not go away when warm.

This is really about the ohm output, and the 73 ECU needs the 017 output

Bosch ECU #0 280 000 037 VW#022 906 021 E

Sorry, but you will both thank me later. Fleblanc for me knowing, and enikolayev for not selling the wrong part and pissing off Fleblanc and having regrets.

Check out this link for wisdom - No lie

http://members.rennlist.com/pbanders/DjetParts.htm#parts

Others did me the favor I am doing you both

J

[Tom_T]

Hey you guys,

Not to be a dick, but the 012 does not work with a 73 2.0L

Only the 017 does, and it is a bitch to find.

I found one but it took 6 months. Actually found 2, but one was not functional

Not sure if you mentioned 2.0L or not, but you did say 017, and many of us here know that 012's are not for 73 2.0L engines.

Makes them run rough and rich. Does not go away when warm.

This is really about the ohm output, and the 73 ECU needs the 017 output

Bosch ECU #0 280 000 037 VW#022 906 021 E

Sorry, but you will both thank me later. Fleblanc for me knowing, and enikolayev for not selling the wrong part and pissing off Fleblanc and having regrets.

Check out this link for wisdom - No lie

http://members.rennlist.com/pbanders/DjetParts.htm#parts

Others did me the favor I am doing you both

J

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

Thanx Richard! .... errr - John! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
I meant to alert them to that last night, but got sidetracked!

If you have the full part nos. handy for the proper 017 CHT John, maybe you could post them here for them too (Bosch & Porsche p/n's - mine aren't handy on this computer). So fleblanc knows what nos. to look for out there in "unobtanium world"!

[avidfanjpl]

Right, Tom!

Here they are:

VW /Porsche CHTS is 022 906 041 A

But, almost no one uses that serial number any more

Bosch CHTS is 0 280 130 017 - Stamped on the head of the sensor where the wire comes out

VERY HARD TO FIND, but worth the search. May be the single most difficult part for DJet to find for being not so expensive a part. No one worldwide is making anything close. Car will not even start without the CHTS, and 73's hate the 012 like crazy.

(P.B. Anders comments below, but, unlike his comment, I removed my 270ohm inline 1/2watt resistor and the car runs much better. Using the 012 sensor gave me like 10mpg and SERIOUSLY terrible starting/warmup. The 017 gives me 25mpg, and it starts, warms and idles perfectly.)

"The PTS, PPC, and FWM list this sensor only for the 1973's, but the DSM lists it for both the 1973 and 1974's. Used with the Ballast Resistor below.
GA0 000 001 => GA0 006 765 The PTS and FWM list this (017) sensor as a replacement for the 1.7L engines in cases of high fuel consumption." - PBAnders

[fleblanc]

Thanks for all these information,

You're all right,my car is a 1973 2L GB engine with 037 ECU 037 MPS and 017 head sensor with a ballast resistor.
I tried to swap for a 012 sensor but the car doesn't run very good,
SO i'm looking for 017 sensor,

Regards,
Fred

[avidfanjpl]

Hey Fred,

There is a 914 repair and parts shop in Peoria, IL. I cannot remember the name.

He sold me my working sensor a while back. See if he has any more.

Be patient. It took me months, but he had at least one.

John

[pilothyer]

I really wonder why no one is making these. Isn't it simply a thermo-resiistor? It also seems to me that you could use just about any one that is available and add an inline ballast to equal the value you need while cold, warm or fully warmed or better yet use a variable resistor as the ballast and tune it to your preference. Most of the ones I have tested have about 2.5Kohms cold and then go to close to closed circuit to ground when hot. An open circuit one will not let the engine start, but if you simply ground the wire that goes to the brain it will.

[avidfanjpl]

There just cannot be that many 914 2.0L engines from 73-74 left to make a difference to a manufacturer to make the 017 CHTS in 2010. The far majority of cars produced were 1.8L after 1973-4, and all models use the 012. Don't have a complete count, but I know of a 2.0L block with a GA00045XX serial number out of a 74. Maybe there were 10,000 of the GA series made with the 017 CHTS?

Many original cars are rotted out, and a lot of engines just don't exist any more. I have come to the conclusion that I need to buy a complete set of parts for mine, then rebuild it, then buy another complete set.

I don't really want to swap blocks, but it is not hard to imagine a complete engine failure. These first 2.0L cars like mine and Tom T's are 38 years old as of next month, as we are talking 2.0L Type IV. Mine is block number GA000386.

I definitely don't beat my car, but I do shift at 5,000. Tom T has to complete his restoration. Hopefully in 2011.

At this point, I am already planning and saving for a complete rebuild some day in the next several years.

Aircooled is VERY cool, but they do break. I listen to it all the time, and I will not flip out when something breaks. I will have to bite the bullet for about $5,000, and that is maybe me doing the work. More like $15,000 because I should paint it and do the tranny when I have the drivetrain out.

That would basically double what I have in the car as of 2010.

But, I am not complaining. Nothing beats driving to the beach on the 91 and 55 at sunset in Orange County. Even when it was 101 today!

John

I really wonder why no one is making these. Isn't it simply a thermo-resiistor? It also seems to me that you could use just about any one that is available and add an inline ballast to equal the value you need while cold, warm or fully warmed or better yet use a variable resistor as the ballast and tune it to your preference. Most of the ones I have tested have about 2.5Kohms cold and then go to close to closed circuit to ground when hot. An open circuit one will not let the engine start, but if you simply ground the wire that goes to the brain it will.

[detoxcowboy]

Hey Fred,

There is a 914 repair and parts shop in Peoria, IL. I cannot remember the name.

He sold me my working sensor a while back. See if he has any more.

Be patient. It took me months, but he had at least one.

John

914 Ltd. Brad Mayer.. Ill. Peoria

[Bleyseng]

HPH in Redwood city should still have some....

[Tom_T]

John & Pilot -

While they would not be a huge production run as compared to a current model car from the 2000's MYs, there were actually more 73 my 2.0 & 1.7 than any of the other MYs (since the 017 also applied to the 1.7 as a substitute part - esp. when low gas mileage was an issue), plus IIRC some of the 2.0 Bus & 411 VW's used the 017 CHTs. 73 MY was the largest 914 production year at north of 27,000 & the 1.8's were a smaller number 74-75, while 70-72 1.7's were about that all together.

Also per Fred who started this topic/request - the GB 2.0's used the -017, which possibly was the same for all MY's 73-76, since IIRC they didn't have to change the 2.0's in Europe/GB/world to meet increasing smog limits, as they did with the 74 GA & 75-76 GC 2.0's to meet California's/USA's smog requirements.

So there probably is an adequate market out there for Bosch or someone to still produce the 017 CHTs. For a limited production run, Jeff Bowlsby is our best bet, since he's already very familiar with the other 914 electrical components to rebuild. Despite what Bosch is saying, the -012 does not work properly in the 73 GA 2.0's, nor apparently for the 73 GB 2.0's according to Fred.

The key would be to match it exactly to the original factory specs on a 73 D-jet, so that it pops in & works properly from the start. I for one don't want to be screwing around with adjusting variable resistance & guessing what's right for my ECU/etc. I'll pay for the proper part(s) to have them work properly.

Just my HO! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)

There just cannot be that many 914 2.0L engines from 73-74 left to make a difference to a manufacturer to make the 017 CHTS in 2010. The far majority of cars produced were 1.8L after 1973-4, and all models use the 012. Don't have a complete count, but I know of a 2.0L block with a GA00045XX serial number out of a 74. Maybe there were 10,000 of the GA series made with the 017 CHTS?

John

I really wonder why no one is making these. Isn't it simply a thermo-resiistor? It also seems to me that you could use just about any one that is available and add an inline ballast to equal the value you need while cold, warm or fully warmed or better yet use a variable resistor as the ballast and tune it to your preference. Most of the ones I have tested have about 2.5Kohms cold and then go to close to closed circuit to ground when hot. An open circuit one will not let the engine start, but if you simply ground the wire that goes to the brain it will.

[avidfanjpl]

Interesting observations, Tom.

I checked with Jeff Bowlsby and McMark.

No interest in making them.

So, we will still have to scrounge. I have 1. Lucky me.

We need to find more.

J

[Tom_T]

Interesting observations, Tom.

I checked with Jeff Bowlsby and McMark.

No interest in making them.

So, we will still have to scrounge. I have 1. Lucky me.

We need to find more.

J

Yeah - I know, I talked to Jeff about this a few months ago when it first came up, but no joy. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

We'll just have to keep working on building up the demand side, & pleading with him on the supply side! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)

[blackmoon]

I may have one, need to check the numbers, it came off a 73 2l

[avidfanjpl]

Should have the 017 number stamped on the wire side top of the sensor around the top of the bolt faces.

Sorry I don't have a picture. Then check it to see if the right ohms are present at room temperature. That is the tough part.

73 2.0L engines show 1200 ohms at 68 degrees ambient temp.

All others are 2000 ohms at the same ambient temp.

The 73 2.0L only runs right with the 1200 ohm sensor.

Runs too rich otherwise.

John