What's the best way to remove the webbing in the paint?, Just curious on the process and products used. Options

[Ericv1]

My paint on my teener is about a 9 out of 10. I would like to remove some of the webbing that has occured over the years and bring it back to a high gloss finish. I have a buffer and some rubbing compound but I wanted to know what's a good sealer and wax. Thanks.

[Bleyseng]

Go to a automotive paint store as they should carry the 3M line of paint buffing compounds, buffing sticks, liquid polish and buffing pads. They are amazing to use as they clean up the paint to a high gloss which you can then wax to keep the shine.

[Ericv1]

Go to a automotive paint store as they should carry the 3M line of paint buffing compounds, buffing sticks, liquid polish and buffing pads. They are amazing to use as they clean up the paint to a high gloss which you can then wax to keep the shine.

Thanks for the information. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[RFoulds]

Before you begin, its important to know what kind of paint is on your car. Different paint types, and different paint processes require different compounds, polishes and waxes.

If your car has a clearcoat, is it a european hard clearcoat or a softer american clearcoat?
If you have multiple color coats, but no clearcoat, is it lacquer, enamel, or urethane blend?

Just don't have at it with a buffer without knowing the answers, I doubt you wuill be happy with the results.

If I assume you have had a repaint in the last few years, chances are you have a multi stage paint, with a softer clearcoat. If that is the case, a buffer and compound can do a lot of damage. If fine scratches like spider webs are all that you are concerned about, a top quality glaze might be all you need. the scratches will still be there, but hardly noticeable.

Try a high quality polish or swirl remover followed by a glaze. Blackfire and Menzerna FMJ are two, top shelf brands. I use FMJ, followed by a coat of P21S pure carnauba.

The very best detail products can be found here.

www.properautocare.com

[tat2dphreak]

FWIW, the original paint seems kinda thin... a local teener used a buffer on his original car recently.. with only a few seconds too long in one spot, his orange paint faded in the spot down to primer...

so be careful with an electric buffer...

[Bleyseng]

yes, that looks like more than a few secs with a cutting paste. With the 3m products esp their polish is hard to do that! The buffing pad does alot of the work as its wool so a little bit of the polish shines up most paint

[Ferg]

If using a high speed wheel, it's important to know a few things.

First, don't attempt unless you've been trained and have done it before. No way in hell I'd attempt on my car unless I practiced a bunch on a junker ect. You can burn through just like in the pic above in a moment.

Second, Paint depth meter, you must know what you have to work with, and what area's are already thin.

Now, say an orbital low speed is pretty much idiot proof, It will NOT however take out microfine swirling, but can improve things with the right products ect.

Two different buffers, 2 uses.

Ferg

[Bleyseng]

Even the high speed variable Dewalt buffers I use I use em on the low speed. On high you will burn thru quickly...you are polishing not sanding!

[Ericv1]

Before you begin, its important to know what kind of paint is on your car. Different paint types, and different paint processes require different compounds, polishes and waxes.

If your car has a clearcoat, is it a european hard clearcoat or a softer american clearcoat?
If you have multiple color coats, but no clearcoat, is it lacquer, enamel, or urethane blend?

Just don't have at it with a buffer without knowing the answers, I doubt you wuill be happy with the results.

If I assume you have had a repaint in the last few years, chances are you have a multi stage paint, with a softer clearcoat. If that is the case, a buffer and compound can do a lot of damage. If fine scratches like spider webs are all that you are concerned about, a top quality glaze might be all you need. the scratches will still be there, but hardly noticeable.

Try a high quality polish or swirl remover followed by a glaze. Blackfire and Menzerna FMJ are two, top shelf brands. I use FMJ, followed by a coat of P21S pure carnauba.

The very best detail products can be found here.

www.properautocare.com

From the records, the car was resprayed about 10 years ago. The sticker in the drivers' corner on the windshield says: PPG, Solex Duplicate, Laminated, Safety Float. Is this information usable as to what paint or process was used in the respray? And, I haven't used the buffer on the teener. I wanted more information before I used it. Thanks.

[RFoulds]

Nope. thats your windshield type. and it probably says dubplate, not duplicate. But, no matter.
Unless it was a very expensive lacquer job, 10 year old paint is most likely a 2 stage acrilyc enamel.

Now, what type of polisher do you have??

[Pat Garvey]

Call me "old school".

I've polished more paints than most. From my '60 Dodge, to my '65 Dodge, to my '70 Chevelle, to my '08 Merc.

I used an orbital on my daily drivers, because they don't matter.

Use my hands on the 914 (and every other Porsche I've owned).

I use my gnarly old hands to spread cleaners and waxes because I can feel when they're working & when it's time to remove. You develope a touch.

I'll stay with the "hands on" approach to vintage paint. I'll also stay with an orbital and Meguiars products for the daily drivers, since those paints are thicker and more forgiving. I've used Meguiars products since the '80's and they've done well by me.