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> 72 Engine "knocks"
mikeatrpi
post May 20 2004, 02:15 PM
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To all:

Thank you for your continued information and support... you must be sick of me- the kid who keeps asking questions. So, without further ado- here's where I currently stand:

Motor needs a rebuild. I had a trained ear (my father) listen to the vehicle run and determine it will need a rebuild. Probably a bearing, he said. The knock is very deep, and the car doesn't stay running without pressing the accelerator pedal.

How much would an engine cost, and where can I buy one? The parts car, that comes with this 914, has a motor but I have no clue when it last worked.

I feel I have several options:
-attempt to do a "good enough" rebuild on this 914, get it going and drive it. Perhaps in the future, restore it. Good enough means replace the part that knocks. Don't machine anything, no new rings, etc.
-full rebuild $?
-replacement engine from a donor car (possibly the parts car) $?

Any suggestions?
I'm very grateful for your help. If I decide I do not want this car, I will provide those who ask with the owner's contact information.
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mikeatrpi
post May 20 2004, 02:22 PM
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I should clarify- my father noted the valve noise I wrote about previously, dismissing it as needing an adjustment.
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tat2dphreak
post May 20 2004, 02:31 PM
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1) Mikez has a sweet 2056 engine with warranty for 4500... I would jump on that in a heartbeat if I were you... the parts to do a PROPER rebuild will cost you that much in parts and time.... these engines don't assemble themselves nearly as easy as a chevy... the "core motors" you have may hhelp recoup a *little* of the cost... if you MUST do the rebuild yourself, get one of Jake Raby's kits... the only way to fly!

your options:
a "good enough" rebuild won't get you far if anywhere...
a full rebuild will probably run you 3-4K + the heads alone will probably cost 1000+ from a good shop (see why I say get a kit from Jake?!)
most engines that you will find that do not need a rebuild soon will cost you 4k+ (which is why mike's engine is a great deal)

I'm sorry I don't have better news for you... I just went through buying an engine for mine
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tat2dphreak
post May 20 2004, 02:33 PM
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QUOTE(mikeatrpi @ May 20 2004, 02:22 PM)
I should clarify- my father noted the valve noise I wrote about previously, dismissing it as needing an adjustment.

don't bet on that... these heads seem to crack if you look at them weird... they are worth checking at the VERY LEAST!
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mikeatrpi
post May 26 2004, 09:12 AM
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Thank you for the information Wayne. I did some searching around here and got quoted ~$3k for an engine rebuild from a local German auto shop. I have decided not to buy the car as it looks like too much of a financial burden at this time, especially with the rust, etc.

To those interested:

Email me michael@modeltrainguide.com and I will send you the contact information for the car. It is located in Brewster, NY (10509); 5 minutes from Danbury, CT.
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tat2dphreak
post May 26 2004, 01:45 PM
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hopefully you will find a better candidate! it's much cheaper in the long run to buy a car that DOESN't have as many issues,ASK me how I know (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) esp RUST. everything else is fairly inexpensive and easier to fix... I think most people will agree with me, you can fly out to CA, find a good rust free car and get it shipped back yo NY for cheaper than you can fix a car with a bunch of issues!
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airsix
post May 26 2004, 10:11 PM
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QUOTE(mikeatrpi @ May 20 2004, 12:22 PM)
I should clarify- my father noted the valve noise I wrote about previously, dismissing it as needing an adjustment.

Does Dad have much VW experience? There is ALWAYS going to be valve noise. Air-cooled + solid-lifters = lots of valve and other mechanical noise. You REALLY need to see a VW mechanic to get a reliable diagnosis. I'd hate to see you start dumping a couple grand into a rebuild if it's not the simplest solution.

-Ben M.
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