Tomeric Build Thread, ...new brakes, new cooler and a video! |
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Tomeric Build Thread, ...new brakes, new cooler and a video! |
tomeric914 |
Aug 1 2010, 04:28 PM
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#1
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One Lap of America in a 914! Group: Members Posts: 1,259 Joined: 25-May 08 From: Syracuse, NY Member No.: 9,101 Region Association: North East States |
Back in February of '08, Cupomeat and Tomeric914 picked up this lovely 916 replica and a boatload of spare parts:
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/farm5.static.flickr.com-9101-1280701715.1.jpg) Clean, one owner, Florida car, runs great, blah, blah, blah... When we picked it up, one carb was seized and the PO was "working on it". "Does the engine turn over?", I ask. "Last I knew it did", he says. Yea, maybe not: (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/farm5.static.flickr.com-9101-1280701715.2.jpg) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/farm5.static.flickr.com-9101-1280701716.3.jpg) Our first clue was when we pulled the oil drain plug and nothing came out. It was about 20 degrees in the garage so the water on the bottom of the engine was frozen. After using a torch to melt the water, the oil came out. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VuK9Z7fpgic The video above shows a nice ice cube stuck to the float of the one Weber that was still in the car. The PO said the car ran hot so they remove the rain tray to get more air in the engine compartment. The filters didn't have rain hats on and there were 1/4" to 1/2" gaps around the bottoms of the filters. The PO had made up some cheesedick plate for the bottom of the filter on but didn't understand the concept of flatness. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/farm5.static.flickr.com-9101-1280701717.4.jpg) That was only the beginning of the fun. I've already forgotten about all the other half-assed fixes the PO did. My goal was to get the car on the road by April and on the track by the end of the summer. The PO had relocated the battery to the trunk which I wasn't crazy about. They also did some hellhole repair that looked to be ok. I finished their repair and but the battery tray back where it should be. At the same time, I rebuilt the 2.0 engine using A LOT of the spare parts we had (heads were one of those spare parts). What amazed me was the amount of parts that were in their original shipping boxes dated from the mid 1980's with 2nd day air! They sat for 20+ years! Here is the engine in the car around the middle of April all set to go. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/farm5.static.flickr.com-9101-1280701717.5.jpg) So now it has 96mm KB pistons and AA cylinders (which, BTW suck. AA used to have decent cylinders). It is now a 2056 with 40IDFs and what appears to be an old S&S exhaust setup. I put the lowest profile tires I could find on the crappy set of cookie cutters we had. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/farm5.static.flickr.com-9101-1280708541.1.jpg) For the next few months I drive it and sort out the various issues, rebuild all the brake calipers, remove the brake line tee that the DAPO put in and get a nice reconditioned brake pressure regulator from PMB. Sign up for my first track event at Watkins Glen and before going there, install an oil cooler. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/farm5.static.flickr.com-9101-1280708542.2.jpg) Then I found some rust in the long that needed attention. Luckily, not too bad... yet. Cut it out and repair it. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/farm5.static.flickr.com-9101-1280708542.3.jpg) Then off to the Glen! |
tomeric914 |
Jun 30 2017, 06:49 PM
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#2
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One Lap of America in a 914! Group: Members Posts: 1,259 Joined: 25-May 08 From: Syracuse, NY Member No.: 9,101 Region Association: North East States |
Just updating my thread with post I recently made here
I was looking for a 20.64mm master cylinder option and stumbled across a thread on Pelican where someone had put a 1990's Corrado master cylinder in a 911 or 914. There was only but one picture and not much of a write-up so I figured I'd try and document what I did. This master cylinder uses the same pushrod that you already have, though some adjustment will be necessary. You will also need to bend new brake lines if you want to do it right. As with any brake work. If you don't know what the hell you're doing, don't do this. Parts: 357 611 019 - this is for the 20.64mm master cylinder 357 611 019 B - this is for the 22.22mm master cylinder 911 355 322 00 - straight reservoir feed fitting 911 355 323 00 - angled reservoir feed fitting 7mm blue braided brake reservoir hose (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/post-9101-1498608352_thumb.jpg) You'll need to decide which master cylinder is right for your application. For example, my braking system is pretty much all mid-1980's Carrera sized calipers and referencing Bill Verberg's brake page, I found that the mid-1980's Carrera used a 20.64mm master cylinder. I also knew that my pedal travel was more than I liked while on track. https://members.rennlist.com/1976c38/brakes.htm I purchased all of the parts through Pelican, the 357 611 019 (20.64mm) is an ATE unit made of aluminum and was only about $100. The 357 611 019 B (22.22mm) is made by a few companies, is a cast iron unit and about $50. Here's where you are today: [img]http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/post-9101-1498609158_thumb.jpg [/img] 1. Drain your reservoir using a turkey baster so you don't wear the entire contents of the reservoir. 2. Disconnect all brake lines, the reservoir feed lines and unbolt the master cylinder. 3. Loosen the locknut and unthread the master cylinder pushrod from the pedal cluster, then run a tap through the threaded portion still on the pedal cluster to clean it up. Make sure the threads on the pushrod are clean and that the locknut threads all the way down on the pushrod. (I had to find a thinner locknut for my application. You may or may not need to do the same). 4. Unbox your new master cylinder and pop in the fittings as shown in the picture below. Use a dab of brake fluid to help lubricate the fitting where it inserts into the master cylinder. ALSO, you'll need to plug one of the extra ports on the master cylinder that you aren't using as seen below. I placed a piece of tape over all of the openings while fitting the master cylinder to keep dirt out. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/post-9101-1498609492_thumb.jpg) 5. Grease the tip of the pushrod before installing the master cylinder. Torque the two 8mm nuts to 18 ft-lbs. I left the washers off. VERY IMPORTANT - now adjust the pedal free play to approximately 1mm by turning the pushrod inside the car at the pedal cluster. Once adjusted, tighten down the locknut. Make sure that the brake light switch lever is in the correct position to actuate when the brake pedal is depressed. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/post-9101-1498609869_thumb.jpg) 6. Back under the vehicle, decide how you will connect the reservoir to the master cylinder. The metal ends of my plastic lines were rusty so I decided to cut them off and use a short length of 7mm blue braided reservoir hose to each line. You could also run the blue braided hose all the way from the reservoir to master cylinder. Use a dab of brake fluid to make it easier to install the hose on the fittings. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/post-9101-1498610136_thumb.jpg) 7. Next, bend new brake lines for the front brakes and a short piece for the rears. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/post-9101-1498610475_thumb.jpg) 8. Last, but not least, bleed the brakes reinstall the bottom pan and enjoy your new firmer, but not too firm, pedal feel! (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/post-9101-1498610623_thumb.jpg) |
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