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> Restoration: Part Duex!, Got Inspired. Warmer weather helps too!
william harris
post Apr 11 2004, 08:54 PM
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So, after seeing Mark Allin's 914-6 GT, decided to go home a grab the wrenches. Next step will be the suspension rebuild. First step, drop the rear suspension.


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william harris
post Apr 11 2004, 08:56 PM
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Here the car sits until the front and rear suspension are removed. Then what's left goes off to be media blasted and primed. Sorta looks sad after the 914-6 GT, but I remember what Mark's car looked like a couple of years ago - about the same.


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william harris
post Apr 11 2004, 08:59 PM
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Here's a close up of the control arm bearing and the shims that go under the bearing (next to body). I take these pictures so I'll remember how to put it back together.


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william harris
post Apr 11 2004, 09:00 PM
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Here's what you see from under the car as you remove the control arm bearing.


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J P Stein
post Apr 11 2004, 09:20 PM
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picture at random


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watsonrx13
post Apr 12 2004, 04:13 PM
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Will, shots look similar to the ones that I took when I took my suspension apart. You know what they say, 'A picture is worth a thound words'. I've set up a personal web site on my lap top to document the disassembly of the 2 cars I'm working on.


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anthony
post Apr 12 2004, 05:34 PM
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QUOTE
Then what's left goes off to be media blasted and primed.


How do you move the car without suspension on it?
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vortrex
post Apr 12 2004, 05:52 PM
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didn't someone (brad?) just load the car onto a flat bed truck sitting on the pan? or maybe there were tires underneath it for cushion??
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william harris
post Apr 12 2004, 06:34 PM
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For $300 I purchased a steel body dolly with casters. Will post pictures when I move the car onto the dolly. So here's the stuff I was going to post yesterday before burnout caught up with me. When you remove the control arms, first you must remove the cable to the parking brake and the hard line and rubber hose to the brake. Here's a view of the parking brake cable end secured by pin with small clip. Easily removed with a screw driver.


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william harris
post Apr 12 2004, 06:35 PM
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Here I have inserted a small scribe into the end of the clip.


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william harris
post Apr 12 2004, 06:38 PM
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After this clip is removed, there is another clip up where the cable is covered by a small rubber boot. This is a semi-circle clip and again is easily removed with a screw driver. Here I have partially dislodged the clip.


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william harris
post Apr 12 2004, 06:39 PM
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After this clip is removed you need to slip the rubber boot over the end of the cable and then you can feed the cable back through the bracket.


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william harris
post Apr 12 2004, 06:41 PM
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Well that pictures sucks, getting the macros into focus is a bitch, especially when you cannot see up close like us old folks.


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william harris
post Apr 12 2004, 06:42 PM
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Next move up to the brake hose and find another clip that is easily pushed off with the blade of a screw driver.


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william harris
post Apr 12 2004, 06:45 PM
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Then using a flare nut wrench, remove the hard brake line and the hose can be worked back out. By now the parking brake cable and brake lines should be disconnected. Here's what you should have. Next step will be disassembly of the rear suspension. Sand blasting all parts, powder coat all parts, replace all bushings, etc. and them assemble with new suspension goodies from High Performance House.


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william harris
post Apr 12 2004, 06:52 PM
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Here's a close up view of the various clips and what's left of the rubber boot on the parking brake cable.


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william harris
post Apr 15 2004, 06:57 AM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/ar15.gif) Ok, so now we move to the front of the car. First item, remove brake lines. Again you will find the clip that holds the hose to the hard line into the brake caliper: removal is easy.


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william harris
post Apr 15 2004, 07:01 AM
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Here's a better shot from the back of the clip. After this clip is removed, use the 11mm flare nut wrench on the hard line and hold the hose with a 17mm wrench and the brake lines are off. My plan is to drop the entire front suspension as a sub-assembly and then disassemble, sandblast (media?) and then powder coat, and replace tie rods, etc. before reassembly. Also, I have located a new stripper in Massachusetts that uses baking soda - the real big advantage being the soda media does not generate any heat: Tango Classics, check them out at www.shelbymustang.com. Will post more tomorrow as progress allows.


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Porsche Rescue
post Apr 15 2004, 09:24 AM
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How do you remove the large stub axle nut with control arm on the ground? Did you loosen it before removal? Or can it be spun off with an impact wrench? It is torqued very tight as I recall.
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East coaster
post Apr 15 2004, 10:13 AM
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Just did mine with an impact wench..FYI
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