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> Eastwood Fender Roller Tool, Anyone have one of these?
qa1142
post Aug 13 2010, 07:43 PM
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Have you tried one or own one of these?

http://www.jegs.com/i/Eastwood/352/31158/10002/-1

Just curious as I try and stuff tires under fenders
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Sleepin
post Aug 13 2010, 08:30 PM
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Buy it and ship it to my house.....I will let you know how it works! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)
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qa1142
post Aug 13 2010, 08:32 PM
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you are too far away for me to borrow it (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif)
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GaroldShaffer
post Aug 13 2010, 08:33 PM
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You bought another 914?
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Nope, I used one of these. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

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Started with narrow end and had a friend help roll the car slowly back & forward while working the bat towards the fat end. I have to admit its not perfect, but I'm happy with it. I wasn't worried about the paint cracking since it was going for paint AFTER I did this. Whatever you do take your time so you don't crack the paint around the edge of the fender.
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Elliot Cannon
post Aug 13 2010, 08:56 PM
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I think someone suggested that tool works best with a constant radius fender opening. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)
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Cairo94507
post Aug 13 2010, 10:32 PM
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Boy does that bring back memories; I used a baseball bat to roll the lips on my 1st 914-6, which was signal orange. It worked perfectly.
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realred914
post Aug 13 2010, 10:36 PM
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eastwood sells some good stuff, and some total junk, be ware.

eastwoods chemicals are amoung the worst int eh automotive field. the rust converter actually promotes rust, and when eastwood became aware of it, tehy continued to sell the remaining stock. there black super paint takes forever to dry, infact they had to chage the labing to warn you not use multible coats. they lead tinning solution is full of fillers that dont help the soldering. they are chemically inept dounces with immoral sales (the fact they kept selling the junk destructive rust converter is crimminal me thinks)

so my moral of the story is eastwood is a crappy company, that you may get some half assed decent chinese tools from, but chemicals from them are sub standard junk. these rip off artists try to cater to home hobbiest and hence get away with rip offs that would sink a company selling to pro's where word gets around faster.

anyway good luck on anything you by from eastwood. be warned!
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Mike Bellis
post Aug 13 2010, 10:45 PM
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I have a fender roller. It works very nice. Just make sure you have a heat gun to soften the paint. The bolt pattern of the tool is too small for a Porsche. It needs a 5 minute mod to work on our cars. I would recommend one. I got mine for $100 new in the box at a swap meet. If anyone in the SF Bay area would like to roll fenders, PM me. Stop by and we'll do it.

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qa1142
post Aug 14 2010, 04:38 AM
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Let me know if you are coming to Chicago (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)



QUOTE(kg6dxn @ Aug 13 2010, 08:45 PM) *

I have a fender roller. It works very nice. Just make sure you have a heat gun to soften the paint. The bolt pattern of the tool is too small for a Porsche. It needs a 5 minute mod to work on our cars. I would recommend one. I got mine for $100 new in the box at a swap meet. If anyone in the SF Bay area would like to roll fenders, PM me. Stop by and we'll do it.

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ellisor3
post Aug 14 2010, 06:42 AM
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I looked at that fender roller before I decided to add flares but I seem to remember finding online where you could rent one. Google Eastwood Fender Roller for rent.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/drunk.gif)
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qa1142
post Aug 14 2010, 06:52 AM
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looks like I should go into business. 5 rentals and paid for.
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qa1142
post Aug 14 2010, 06:56 AM
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But this does look cheaper friend Garold

Do they still make wood bats? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

Heat gun from Harbor Freight will keep my new paint from cracking.

Will


QUOTE(Garold Shaffer @ Aug 13 2010, 06:33 PM) *

Nope, I used one of these. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

Attached Image

Started with narrow end and had a friend help roll the car slowly back & forward while working the bat towards the fat end. I have to admit its not perfect, but I'm happy with it. I wasn't worried about the paint cracking since it was going for paint AFTER I did this. Whatever you do take your time so you don't crack the paint around the edge of the fender.

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jaxdream
post Aug 14 2010, 07:05 AM
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Question to those that have used the bat or any other system of this type , do you trim the outer lip on the edge of the fender down or off completely , leave it in place ?? Just what prep to the fender is preformed prior to using a bat or a device such as the one mentioned / pictured ?? It does seem to be a two people job , especially with the bat , could some of you guys that have done this chime in , it would also be a great thread to add to the classic forum for a good reference.
Thanks ......

Jack / Jaxdream
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mepstein
post Aug 14 2010, 07:13 AM
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QUOTE(jaxdream @ Aug 14 2010, 09:05 AM) *

Question to those that have used the bat or any other system of this type , do you trim the outer lip on the edge of the fender down or off completely , leave it in place ?? Just what prep to the fender is preformed prior to using a bat or a device such as the one mentioned / pictured ?? It does seem to be a two people job , especially with the bat , could some of you guys that have done this chime in , it would also be a great thread to add to the classic forum for a good reference.
Thanks ......

Jack / Jaxdream



Do a search, it's been posted before. Seems to work if you need a little more room, but still can screw up your fender/paint if you go to far. It's when you roll the fender, not just the lip that things can get dicey.
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jaxdream
post Aug 14 2010, 07:23 AM
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Thanks , I'll do that , just didn't remember , probably more I forgot also (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wacko.gif)

Jack / Jaxdream
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jim_hoyland
post Aug 14 2010, 08:11 AM
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Get that VIN ?
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One of the discount tire chains rented them...
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carr914
post Aug 14 2010, 08:19 AM
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You gotta have Balls to use this Bat (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

Of course after you use it, you'll probably hit the wall

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realred914
post Aug 14 2010, 10:37 AM
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QUOTE(jaxdream @ Aug 14 2010, 06:05 AM) *

Question to those that have used the bat or any other system of this type , do you trim the outer lip on the edge of the fender down or off completely , leave it in place ?? Just what prep to the fender is preformed prior to using a bat or a device such as the one mentioned / pictured ?? It does seem to be a two people job , especially with the bat , could some of you guys that have done this chime in , it would also be a great thread to add to the classic forum for a good reference.
Thanks ......

Jack / Jaxdream




the folded over edge of the rolled fender can be a water/mud trap, you can trim it (be sure to file the sharp edges off) to prevent this being a water trap, but that would preclude you from returnign the fender lip to original is you ever so desire.

if you do have a water/mud trap and dont remove it, at least make sure you re-paint that area inside the wheel well real good, with a quality paint after you have scuffed up the original paint. there is a good chance the orignal inner paint will be compromised at the bend. water trap plus compromised paint will lead to rust thru eventually.
a fianl coat with a good seam sealer woudl not be a bad idea also.


rust is the enemy, plan for it, seal and paint stuff, avoid water/mud trap and yor car may just live long !!! yippie!!!!
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seebobgo
post Aug 14 2010, 10:47 AM
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Plenty here...

http://motors.shop.ebay.com/__?_from=R40&a...ler&_sacat=
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