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> Spring in the distrib drive, Needed?
jeffdon
post Aug 18 2010, 08:21 AM
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Have a feeling I did not install a spring between the Distrib, and the Distrib Pinion gear/drive. Do not see it in the Raby video, but its in the factory parts schematic. I am running an 050 (i think, its not an 009) mech. adv. distrib. Do I need to put the spring in?
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ME733
post Aug 18 2010, 08:53 AM
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..........YES ABSOLUTELY PUT THE SPRING IN..........here.s why....the spring keeps tension on the / between the distributor drive tang and the distributor drive GEAR ensuring that the distributor drive gear does not BOUNCE AROUND/up and down, which will alter timing AND cause rapid wear at the bronze crank gear drive.(which creates metal bits which are non-magnetic).....YOU have got to be careful when installing it.....there is a opening in the drive shaft wall( the crank case)...and it is big enough that IF the spring goes into it ...it will fall into the front (timing cover)..front section of the crank case and you will not be able to retreve it. I have had good results installing the spring this way. ..Put grease into the distributor drive gear seat POCKET for the spring. use a LONG NON magnetic wood stick, (that will fit inside the spring loosely) put the stick into the distributor drive gear pocket, drop the spring down the wood stick. it will stick to the grease....as insurance slide a soda straw down the stick , push down as you withdraw the wood stick...the spring will stay put while you reinstall the distributor. best bet is to get a distributor drive and spring so you can really get the right "tools" and see what you are dealing with. YOU REALLY DO NOT WANT TO DROP THE SPRING INTO THE CRANKCASE.
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realred914
post Aug 18 2010, 09:00 AM
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QUOTE(ME733 @ Aug 18 2010, 07:53 AM) *

..........YES ABSOLUTELY PUT THE SPRING IN..........here.s why....the spring keeps tension on the / between the distributor drive tang and the distributor drive GEAR ensuring that the distributor drive gear does not BOUNCE AROUND/up and down, which will alter timing AND cause rapid wear at the bronze crank gear drive.(which creates metal bits which are non-magnetic).....YOU have got to be careful when installing it.....there is a opening in the drive shaft wall( the crank case)...and it is big enough that IF the spring goes into it ...it will fall into the front (timing cover)..front section of the crank case and you will not be able to retreve it. I have had good results installing the spring this way. ..Put grease into the distributor drive gear seat POCKET for the spring. use a LONG NON magnetic wood stick, (that will fit inside the spring loosely) put the stick into the distributor drive gear pocket, drop the spring down the wood stick. it will stick to the grease....as insurance slide a soda straw down the stick , push down as you withdraw the wood stick...the spring will stay put while you reinstall the distributor. best bet is to get a distributor drive and spring so you can really get the right "tools" and see what you are dealing with. YOU REALLY DO NOT WANT TO DROP THE SPRING INTO THE CRANKCASE.



yup, well said, get that spring back in there.
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jeffdon
post Aug 18 2010, 09:00 AM
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QUOTE(ME733 @ Aug 18 2010, 07:53 AM) *

..........YES ABSOLUTELY PUT THE SPRING IN..........here.s why....the spring keeps tension on the / between the distributor drive tang and the distributor drive GEAR ensuring that the distributor drive gear does not BOUNCE AROUND/up and down, which will alter timing AND cause rapid wear at the bronze crank gear drive.(which creates metal bits which are non-magnetic).....YOU have got to be careful when installing it.....there is a opening in the drive shaft wall( the crank case)...and it is big enough that IF the spring goes into it ...it will fall into the front (timing cover)..front section of the crank case and you will not be able to retreve it. I have had good results installing the spring this way. ..Put grease into the distributor drive gear seat POCKET for the spring. use a LONG NON magnetic wood stick, (that will fit inside the spring loosely) put the stick into the distributor drive gear pocket, drop the spring down the wood stick. it will stick to the grease....as insurance slide a soda straw down the stick , push down as you withdraw the wood stick...the spring will stay put while you reinstall the distributor. best bet is to get a distributor drive and spring so you can really get the right "tools" and see what you are dealing with. YOU REALLY DO NOT WANT TO DROP THE SPRING INTO THE CRANKCASE.


Found a spring in all my parts bins that measures 7.5 mm by 30mm. This the one?
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Mark Henry
post Aug 18 2010, 09:04 AM
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QUOTE(realred914 @ Aug 18 2010, 11:00 AM) *

QUOTE(ME733 @ Aug 18 2010, 07:53 AM) *

..........YES ABSOLUTELY PUT THE SPRING IN..........here.s why....the spring keeps tension on the / between the distributor drive tang and the distributor drive GEAR ensuring that the distributor drive gear does not BOUNCE AROUND/up and down, which will alter timing AND cause rapid wear at the bronze crank gear drive.(which creates metal bits which are non-magnetic).....YOU have got to be careful when installing it.....there is a opening in the drive shaft wall( the crank case)...and it is big enough that IF the spring goes into it ...it will fall into the front (timing cover)..front section of the crank case and you will not be able to retreve it. I have had good results installing the spring this way. ..Put grease into the distributor drive gear seat POCKET for the spring. use a LONG NON magnetic wood stick, (that will fit inside the spring loosely) put the stick into the distributor drive gear pocket, drop the spring down the wood stick. it will stick to the grease....as insurance slide a soda straw down the stick , push down as you withdraw the wood stick...the spring will stay put while you reinstall the distributor. best bet is to get a distributor drive and spring so you can really get the right "tools" and see what you are dealing with. YOU REALLY DO NOT WANT TO DROP THE SPRING INTO THE CRANKCASE.



yup, well said, get that spring back in there.


Too bad not well written. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif)


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jeffdon
post Aug 18 2010, 09:11 AM
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One more thing....i KNOW i somehow indexed the drive gear 180 out, due to the way I have had to run my plug wires to get it to run/time. Would it be safer to go ahead and pull the gear (with a magnet) and install all held together with the distrib? Is it possible for the washer under the drive to slip and fall into the case?
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ME733
post Aug 18 2010, 09:15 AM
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QUOTE(jeffdon @ Aug 18 2010, 11:00 AM) *

QUOTE(ME733 @ Aug 18 2010, 07:53 AM) *

..........YES ABSOLUTELY PUT THE SPRING IN..........here.s why....the spring keeps tension on the / between the distributor drive tang and the distributor drive GEAR ensuring that the distributor drive gear does not BOUNCE AROUND/up and down, which will alter timing AND cause rapid wear at the bronze crank gear drive.(which creates metal bits which are non-magnetic).....YOU have got to be careful when installing it.....there is a opening in the drive shaft wall( the crank case)...and it is big enough that IF the spring goes into it ...it will fall into the front (timing cover)..front section of the crank case and you will not be able to retreve it. I have had good results installing the spring this way. ..Put grease into the distributor drive gear seat POCKET for the spring. use a LONG NON magnetic wood stick, (that will fit inside the spring loosely) put the stick into the distributor drive gear pocket, drop the spring down the wood stick. it will stick to the grease....as insurance slide a soda straw down the stick , push down as you withdraw the wood stick...the spring will stay put while you reinstall the distributor. best bet is to get a distributor drive and spring so you can really get the right "tools" and see what you are dealing with. YOU REALLY DO NOT WANT TO DROP THE SPRING INTO THE CRANKCASE.


Found a spring in all my parts bins that measures 7.5 mm by 30mm. This the one?

.................OD outside diamenter is .245 ths inch........length is... .950 ths inch ...+or - a RCH.
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jeffdon
post Aug 18 2010, 09:23 AM
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QUOTE(ME733 @ Aug 18 2010, 08:15 AM) *

QUOTE(jeffdon @ Aug 18 2010, 11:00 AM) *

QUOTE(ME733 @ Aug 18 2010, 07:53 AM) *

..........YES ABSOLUTELY PUT THE SPRING IN..........here.s why....the spring keeps tension on the / between the distributor drive tang and the distributor drive GEAR ensuring that the distributor drive gear does not BOUNCE AROUND/up and down, which will alter timing AND cause rapid wear at the bronze crank gear drive.(which creates metal bits which are non-magnetic).....YOU have got to be careful when installing it.....there is a opening in the drive shaft wall( the crank case)...and it is big enough that IF the spring goes into it ...it will fall into the front (timing cover)..front section of the crank case and you will not be able to retreve it. I have had good results installing the spring this way. ..Put grease into the distributor drive gear seat POCKET for the spring. use a LONG NON magnetic wood stick, (that will fit inside the spring loosely) put the stick into the distributor drive gear pocket, drop the spring down the wood stick. it will stick to the grease....as insurance slide a soda straw down the stick , push down as you withdraw the wood stick...the spring will stay put while you reinstall the distributor. best bet is to get a distributor drive and spring so you can really get the right "tools" and see what you are dealing with. YOU REALLY DO NOT WANT TO DROP THE SPRING INTO THE CRANKCASE.


Found a spring in all my parts bins that measures 7.5 mm by 30mm. This the one?

.................OD outside diamenter is .245 ths inch........length is... .950 ths inch ...+or - a RCH.


Hmm.. Than this one is too long. Wonder if i swaped it for the smaller oil pressure relief spring? Whats the size of that?

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ME733
post Aug 18 2010, 09:27 AM
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QUOTE(ME733 @ Aug 18 2010, 11:15 AM) *

QUOTE(jeffdon @ Aug 18 2010, 11:00 AM) *

QUOTE(ME733 @ Aug 18 2010, 07:53 AM) *

..........YES ABSOLUTELY PUT THE SPRING IN..........here.s why....the spring keeps tension on the / between the distributor drive tang and the distributor drive GEAR ensuring that the distributor drive gear does not BOUNCE AROUND/up and down, which will alter timing AND cause rapid wear at the bronze crank gear drive.(which creates metal bits which are non-magnetic).....YOU have got to be careful when installing it.....there is a opening in the drive shaft wall( the crank case)...and it is big enough that IF the spring goes into it ...it will fall into the front (timing cover)..front section of the crank case and you will not be able to retreve it. I have had good results installing the spring this way. ..Put grease into the distributor drive gear seat POCKET for the spring. use a LONG NON magnetic wood stick, (that will fit inside the spring loosely) put the stick into the distributor drive gear pocket, drop the spring down the wood stick. it will stick to the grease....as insurance slide a soda straw down the stick , push down as you withdraw the wood stick...the spring will stay put while you reinstall the distributor. best bet is to get a distributor drive and spring so you can really get the right "tools" and see what you are dealing with. YOU REALLY DO NOT WANT TO DROP THE SPRING INTO THE CRANKCASE.


Found a spring in all my parts bins that measures 7.5 mm by 30mm. This the one?

.................OD outside diamenter is .245 ths inch........length is... .950 ths inch ...+or - a RCH.

..................Oh Dear God, protect this poor soul from the evil,s of the assembly devils...........YES YOU CAN drop the washer ..into the (side of crankcase hole)...use a steady hand and withdraw stright up..with the magnet on a stick....put grease on the bottom of the drive and push on washer.(they will stick together....to reinstall.
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realred914
post Aug 18 2010, 09:34 AM
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yeah index it right so as to not screw up timing setting if some one dont know what is going on. just dont drop anything. so you assembled this motor using a video from raby??? note to use a book next time, I dont see how one can follow a video well enough to assemble an engine, a video may be of some help, but you realy need a book and still photos to help you along specialy if first time. no substitute for a piece of paper in a book that you can write notes on sand reread easy.. harder to miss stuff when you can go back and re-read it and cross check with other pages / diagrams. etc.... we are less likely to do that with a video. so use a video as a supliment not as teh sole source of building a motor info.

the haynes book has a decnt explanation of indexing the distributor drive gear, follow that and you should be ok. in the proceedure
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jeffdon
post Aug 18 2010, 09:36 AM
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[/quote]
..................Oh Dear God, protect this poor soul from the evil,s of the assembly devils...........YES YOU CAN drop the washer ..into the (side of crankcase hole)...use a steady hand and withdraw stright up..with the magnet on a stick....put grease on the bottom of the drive and push on washer.(they will stick together....to reinstall.
[/quote]

Thats exactly what I worried about. Not so much on the install, I know the grease trick, but when I pull the F-r. I feel like I am about to go defuse a bomb.
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jeffdon
post Aug 18 2010, 10:03 AM
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allrighty, i can pull the dizzy up about half an inch. The rotor is spinning freely, so I am betting that its pulling out of the drive slot, and the pinion is staying put, hence, the washer should not be able to fall. I hope.

However, the dizzy seems to be binding beyond that. WTF? Any tricks to coerce it out of there?
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realred914
post Aug 18 2010, 10:20 AM
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QUOTE(jeffdon @ Aug 18 2010, 09:03 AM) *

allrighty, i can pull the dizzy up about half an inch. The rotor is spinning freely, so I am betting that its pulling out of the drive slot, and the pinion is staying put, hence, the washer should not be able to fall. I hope.

However, the dizzy seems to be binding beyond that. WTF? Any tricks to coerce it out of there?



give a good yank. also helps if the clamp for the dizzie is removed via the stud/nut on teh case, so the clamp pulls out with thte dizzie. if you try to pull th e dizzie thru the clamp it will hang up on the o-ring. so remove the clamp with the dizzie, shoudl yank right on out.

good luck
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jeffdon
post Aug 18 2010, 10:24 AM
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QUOTE(realred914 @ Aug 18 2010, 09:20 AM) *

QUOTE(jeffdon @ Aug 18 2010, 09:03 AM) *

allrighty, i can pull the dizzy up about half an inch. The rotor is spinning freely, so I am betting that its pulling out of the drive slot, and the pinion is staying put, hence, the washer should not be able to fall. I hope.

However, the dizzy seems to be binding beyond that. WTF? Any tricks to coerce it out of there?



give a good yank. also helps if the clamp for the dizzie is removed via the stud/nut on teh case, so the clamp pulls out with thte dizzie. if you try to pull th e dizzie thru the clamp it will hang up on the o-ring. so remove the clamp with the dizzie, shoudl yank right on out.

good luck


got it, but the clamp was interfering with the tin, dammit, so it stayed on. Good news is the drive gear stayed in the case, so the washer stayed put. Now i am afraid to pull up the fear to re-index, lol. I KNOW how the diz is configured out of standard position, whats the harm in leaving it that way? I have no intention of passing the car onto anyone.

Can the gear be pulled just to the point where you can re-index it, but not far enough that the washer could drop off?
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ME733
post Aug 18 2010, 10:52 AM
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QUOTE(jeffdon @ Aug 18 2010, 12:24 PM) *

QUOTE(realred914 @ Aug 18 2010, 09:20 AM) *

QUOTE(jeffdon @ Aug 18 2010, 09:03 AM) *

allrighty, i can pull the dizzy up about half an inch. The rotor is spinning freely, so I am betting that its pulling out of the drive slot, and the pinion is staying put, hence, the washer should not be able to fall. I hope.

However, the dizzy seems to be binding beyond that. WTF? Any tricks to coerce it out of there?



give a good yank. also helps if the clamp for the dizzie is removed via the stud/nut on teh case, so the clamp pulls out with thte dizzie. if you try to pull th e dizzie thru the clamp it will hang up on the o-ring. so remove the clamp with the dizzie, shoudl yank right on out.

good luck


got it, but the clamp was interfering with the tin, dammit, so it stayed on. Good news is the drive gear stayed in the case, so the washer stayed put. Now i am afraid to pull up the fear to re-index, lol. I KNOW how the diz is configured out of standard position, whats the harm in leaving it that way? I have no intention of passing the car onto anyone.

Can the gear be pulled just to the point where you can re-index it, but not far enough that the washer could drop off?

..................good question, I don't know.(but I doubt it).....I ALWAYS ..find TDC #1 cylinder, check distributor drive tang orentation...check distributor drive tang orentation...do a "dry run" for assembly (WITH OUT THE WASHER OR SPRING)...as... as the drive gears mesh it will rotate the distributor drive shaft ..ROTOR....which should wind up pointing to the nose of the crank shaft./or about 10-to 11 o'clock.....THEN AND only then do I grease up everything and assemble......
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VaccaRabite
post Aug 18 2010, 10:52 AM
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Okay, a couple of things.

if you loose the spring or the dizzy into the case, it is not the end of the world, especially if you have not put the engine in the car. The only place they can fall is down right next to the sump. If it happens, just pull the oil pump and retrieve your errant hardware. Of course take care NOT to have that happen, but don't let yourself wig out too much about it. I was able to retieve the spring this way with the engine in the car. Not fun, but not horrible.

For the indexing - do you think that your current gear index is wrong? If it was correct before you pulled the dizzy (and if you followed Jakes steps, it was right) then it will still be right now. The drive tang is off set on the dizzy and only fits in one way. As long as you don't remove the drive gear, your dizzy will be fine when you reinstall it.

But, if you are concerned about the drive gear being wrong, go ahead and pull it. Set the engine back to TDC and replace the drive and dizzy to the correct point as per Jake's video.

Zach
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jeffdon
post Aug 18 2010, 10:59 AM
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QUOTE(Vacca Rabite @ Aug 18 2010, 09:52 AM) *

Okay, a couple of things.

if you loose the spring or the dizzy into the case, it is not the end of the world, especially if you have not put the engine in the car. The only place they can fall is down right next to the sump. If it happens, just pull the oil pump and retrieve your errant hardware. Of course take care NOT to have that happen, but don't let yourself wig out too much about it. I was able to retieve the spring this way with the engine in the car. Not fun, but not horrible.

For the indexing - do you think that your current gear index is wrong? If it was correct before you pulled the dizzy (and if you followed Jakes steps, it was right) then it will still be right now. The drive tang is off set on the dizzy and only fits in one way. As long as you don't remove the drive gear, your dizzy will be fine when you reinstall it.

But, if you are concerned about the drive gear being wrong, go ahead and pull it. Set the engine back to TDC and replace the drive and dizzy to the correct point as per Jake's video.

Zach




Pretty sure I indexed it 180 out somehow. Dont really see harm in that, as long as the wires are right, but please do advise if i am not considering something.

Now my issue is not being able to fit the damn spring into the hole in the drive gear. Damn, its always something.
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jeffdon
post Aug 18 2010, 11:27 AM
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QUOTE(jeffdon @ Aug 18 2010, 09:59 AM) *

QUOTE(Vacca Rabite @ Aug 18 2010, 09:52 AM) *

Okay, a couple of things.

if you loose the spring or the dizzy into the case, it is not the end of the world, especially if you have not put the engine in the car. The only place they can fall is down right next to the sump. If it happens, just pull the oil pump and retrieve your errant hardware. Of course take care NOT to have that happen, but don't let yourself wig out too much about it. I was able to retieve the spring this way with the engine in the car. Not fun, but not horrible.

For the indexing - do you think that your current gear index is wrong? If it was correct before you pulled the dizzy (and if you followed Jakes steps, it was right) then it will still be right now. The drive tang is off set on the dizzy and only fits in one way. As long as you don't remove the drive gear, your dizzy will be fine when you reinstall it.

But, if you are concerned about the drive gear being wrong, go ahead and pull it. Set the engine back to TDC and replace the drive and dizzy to the correct point as per Jake's video.

Zach




Pretty sure I indexed it 180 out somehow. Dont really see harm in that, as long as the wires are right, but please do advise if i am not considering something.

Now my issue is not being able to fit the damn spring into the hole in the drive gear. Damn, its always something.


Oh, and it IS an 009......stupid me.
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rhcb914
post Aug 18 2010, 12:32 PM
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Nothing is wrong with running the dizzy 180 out. Especially since it's a 009 and you don't have the vaccum canister to contend with. #1 TDC mark will be incorrect but that's it. BTDT. May confuse other if they go to work on the car but as long as you know aint no big thang!!
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jeffdon
post Aug 18 2010, 03:21 PM
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QUOTE(rhcb914 @ Aug 18 2010, 11:32 AM) *

Nothing is wrong with running the dizzy 180 out. Especially since it's a 009 and you don't have the vaccum canister to contend with. #1 TDC mark will be incorrect but that's it. BTDT. May confuse other if they go to work on the car but as long as you know aint no big thang!!


Ok, got the right spring, had the wrong one. Now I am having issues re-installing! The dizzy goes in until it hits the o-ring (put on a new one). Is it ok to whack on it with a plastic mallet? Any other tricks? Got everything lubed well.
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