Door fit problems - or worse. Options

[rick 918-S]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png) You have a real challenge ahead of you. The door gap is the least of your worries. I would suggest you build as solid a platform as you can. Along with the suspension pickup point fixtures you should add something like this front to back. I built this for a Mercedes that was about as rusty as your car with a prior improper repair that I was battling. I would attach all thread to it so you can adjust out any sag.




Which is by the way what I think is causing the gap issue on the driver side. I would take some tie wire and hang pieces about 12" long at both the right and left sides of the car in about 6-8-places. Longer in the front at the suspension pickup points and bumper mounting positions. Use known good places like the dounuts of they are still there, suspension bolts and bumper mounting positions.

Here's a quick and dirty example.

[Tom]

Andrewb, (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png)
Quite the project you have undertaken. Certainly more than I would undertake! Best of luck to you sir!
By the way, I have never done anything of this level of difficulty, but I think it would be a good idea to make your jig fit a known good chassis and then bend yours to fit.? Maybe others will have more ideas.
Again, I wish you the best. Please keep us updated on your progress.
I also thought the stripes looked kind of nice.
Tom

[rick 918-S]

Measure down the wire and set up a cross bar.



The check all the locations with a level or better a pitch gauge. I have one I can show you if you need an example but they are used for doing roof estimates. The one I have is digital and only costs about $ 40.00 at Home Depot. You can get these on their web site too I would think.



I think once you have the car set up on the fixture then check the pickup points you will see the drivers front corner is low. That's my guess.

Good luck! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/assimilate.gif)

[charliew]

I also think Rick is dead on. You can probably just put a jack on the driver front suspension point and just jack up a little and watch the door gap get better. Rick's idea with the wire seems real good and accurate though and you will need it to brace the tub before you start. I would like to know it is straight as possible and well braced before I start. I know it will move a lot but at least you will know what moved it after you start and be able to correct it. If it is straighter after you finish than it is now you have really done a good job, this will not be easy and I have done a lot of body sheetmetal replacements and would never try one this bad.

It depends on when the stripes were put on but what do they look like with a long straight edge laid under them compared to the good side? Does it show the door to fender misalignment? If it does that means it's happened since the stripes were put on. I really think it's the way it is supported on the blocks though.

[andrewb]

I really think it's the way it is supported on the blocks though.

That is something that's crossed my mind - the problem was finding somewhere strong enough to take the weight that wouldn't get in the way of the work I needed to do. I'm not totally happy with it which is why I'm working on a jig that will pick up on suspension points - the good ones !. My concern there is that by moving the supporting points outwards the car will sag in the middle so I'll have to build in some floor support as well. So I end up with the kind of arrangement Rick shows under that Merc. Thanks for that input Rick - much appreciated.

The plan now is -
1. More accurate and even support under the whole car
2. Sort the longs
3. Do I then do the front suspension or do I still need to do the floor first ?

Thanks again to you all.

[andrewb]

This looks like evidence of replacement. Better picture please....

Not had chance to take a better pic so here's another (bad) one from a few months ago of the area that you wanted to see.

All it shows is a big gap. I know I shouldn't have done it but enthusiam overcame ignorance and I drilled out the welds holding what was left of the outboard end of the valance to the wing and gravity did the rest.



There is definitely no evidence of a previous repair. The odd thing is that the other side is in a similar condition but nowhere near as bad which is what makes me think that the front end - and specifically the valance - has been pushed sideways and the flexing of the welded areas between the valance and the front wings has then lead to the corrosion. I've noticed this before - a smallish impact leads to corrosion in surrounding araes and joins. I'm guessing that the deformation - even if only temporary - opens up microscopic 'cracks' in the surface of the metal and allows moisture to get in and get to work. Any metallurgists here who can confirm that theory ?

When I've built my underframe jig I will then construct something off that which will give me a car centreline - then I can check whether the car is permanently turning a right hand corner.

[rick 918-S]

I would fix the floors and longs and fit the doors and targa top first then work my way out of the center box to the front and rear. Think of three boxes. The center being the most important as everything is squared off the vertical and both horizontal planes.

[andrewb]

Message received Rick. Drivers side long is first up - after I've made a better frame/stand. I'll post again when I've made some progress,

[andrewb]

Also add your vin# to the database here if you havnt done so already. Thanks

It is done. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)