Changed the clutch, one more question... Options

[ripper911]

Well, we got everything changed and back together.

I crank the car up and it just grinds when trying to shift. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

Heres what I know...

we didn't remove the flywheel/crankshaft seal so the shims were not messed with
I used the rebuilt flywheel (although it looked awefully clean) so I thought we might have to do the shims but didn't think we would be able to do it with what we had available..

I've adjusted the cable at the release fork as much as it can, the pedal feels very tight, and the end of the fork hits the transmision case.

I've read about shimming the ball in the bell housing of the tranny, but how?
is that what we should do next, or go in and get the shims behind the flywheel in spec?
we shifted the transmission while trying to get it back on the engine, whould that have thrown something off?

not sure what to do next?

[messix]

i think it's to put a washer between the pivot ball and the tranny case to get the fork clearance.

[ripper911]

i think it's to put a washer between the pivot ball and the tranny case to get the fork clearance.

Thats what I'm thinking too.

So, it does come off? My dad handled the transmission and he dosen't see how to shim it...

How is that done, in detail please.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/KMA.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif)

[Spoke]

I've adjusted the cable at the release fork as much as it can, the pedal feels very tight, and the end of the fork hits the transmission case.

When you say "as much as it can", do you mean you ran out of threads on the cable end?

When you say "the end of the fork hits the transmission case" do you mean when you depress the clutch?

The fork pivots on a ball and there's a bushing that goes in the fork lever. Did you change the bushing? I think this is where the washer goes, behind the bushing. If this is incorrect, hopefully someone will chime in.

[jimkelly]

engine off

put car in 5th

push clutch in

have someone try to push car a few feet - rolls freely ??

[ripper911]

I went back today and pulled the tranny again.

Messed with the release fork and it seems like it now has the proper freeplay then makes contact.

It just grinds when trying to get into gear. constantly, wont go in...

Started the car in 1st and went down the road, so it will move under it's own power
and it let me shift into 2nd while on the road, also it seemed like the clutch was responding (and not slipping!), as I came up on slower traffic and had to slow down, but then I tried going into 1st and no go..
During that drive the clutch was catching high in the pedal travel so I adjusted it to about where it should be.

What are to possibilities?
I have learned how to take my transmission off easily so I don't mind going back in to fix it, but I want to have an idea what could be causing this...

ask me questions, answer my questions, lets figure this out.
This is my only running car (well not now)

[ripper911]

I've adjusted the cable at the release fork as much as it can, the pedal feels very tight, and the end of the fork hits the transmission case.

When you say "as much as it can", do you mean you ran out of threads on the cable end?
I THOUGHT SO, BUT NOW I THINK IT IS ABOUT RIGHT

When you say "the end of the fork hits the transmission case" do you mean when you depress the clutch?
YES, SHOULD THAT NOT HAPPEN?

The fork pivots on a ball and there's a bushing that goes in the fork lever. Did you change the bushing? I think this is where the washer goes, behind the bushing. If this is incorrect, hopefully someone will chime in.
I TRIED THE WASHER BEHIND, BETWEEN, AROUND. BUT NOW IT FEELS RIGHT.
LEFT OUT THE LITTLE SPACERS THAT WENT ON THE SIDES OF THE BEARING LAST TIME.

[Ductech]

Best advice i can give is that you should measure the thickness of the new plate compared to the old one. sounds like you can't dissengage this new friction plate well enough to change gears. either their is less throw at the throwout bearing/ arm assembly or your disc is incorrect and is just to plain thick to dissengage properly no matter what the adjustment is.

[ripper911]

Best advice i can give is that you should measure the thickness of the new plate compared to the old one. sounds like you can't dissengage this new friction plate well enough to change gears. either their is less throw at the throwout bearing/ arm assembly or your disc is incorrect and is just to plain thick to dissengage properly no matter what the adjustment is.

Should I try with the old disc, and new pressure plate.

or maybe old pressure plate and new disc?

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

[SLITS]

You bought the flywheel from AA. Did they bother to give you the measurement of how much the flywheel was cut? If it is to deep, it won't work (they should know that). It also needs to be step cut to maintain cover / disk relationship. I don't have the specifications anymore.

I have seen them cut to the point where the flywheel bolts had to be ground to clear the friction disk.

Also, the bushing everyone is talking about.

When correct, you should be able to pull back on the clutch pedal 3/4". I don't set mine that way, but that is the factory specification. I usually play with the adjustment until I get friction about 1/2 the way up on the pedal.

As I said before, if your old flywheel wasn't blued, scored or cracked, I would have left the flywheel alone and installed the new clutch parts only.

Anyway ... good luck!

[JRust]

Still sounds like the clutch fork to me. Did you get a washer behind the ball it sits on? It is basically a little bolt with a ball on it. You just unscrew it & put a washer behind it. Then screw it back in. You just aren't getting enough movement. Unfortunately you do have to have the tranny off to do it. Unless you have some amazing tools I haven't seen. Sounds like you are used to pulling it though. Just pull your tranny again & pull the clutch fork off. Then pull the ball & add a washer behind. Have a few different thicknesses available. Seems like it is a 13mm bolt but I'm not positive on that. Takes a wrench as the ball keep you from using a socket. Start small & work your way up as needed. Doesn't take much to get the clutch fork out so it can pivot without running out of room. Hope that makes sense (IMG:style_emoticons/default/huh.gif)

[ripper911]

Ah, the washer goes BEHIND the ball, in the tranny housing!
that soundsgood to me, I'm having trouble getting the ball out, cant get a grip in the flat surfaces, and havent got a tool that would fit around it in that tight of space.

and, yes. My old flywheel was pretty well blued, scored... so new one is probably staying. and I dont recall a measurement.

Any more suggestion, I only want t o do this one more time if I can.
AA will run out of C/V joint gaskets soon... if I keep going like this.

[SLITS]

Ok, you asked for suggestions .... read this ......

Read this for flywheel specs

This will tell you all you need to know (more than likely)

[Cap'n Krusty]

Did you replace the plastic ball cup on the release arm? While I'm saking questions, here's a BIG one. Did you replace the o-ring in the back of the flywheel? How about the pilot bearing? For the ball, you need a deep 9/16 socket with the splines going all the way down the inside of the socket. Hard to find, but they DO exist. Use one of the washers from the nose cover of the trans. Be sure to pus another washer in its place. The original washers are of a higher quality than the ones you find in the aftermarket, and they're FLAT.

The Cap'n

[tradisrad]

Like others say you need to put a washer under the pivot ball. A thin wall socket is needed to remove the pivot ball. I have a "special" socket that I ground down to fit.

[messix]

i think it's to put a washer between the pivot ball and the tranny case to get the fork clearance.

yep .... i thought i said this last night...... maybe i wasn't specific enough.

[ws91420]

Did you replace the clutch cable yet? I kept trying to adjust a worn out clutch and ended up streching and snapping a cable.

[jsaum]

I had a problem with the clutch not wanting to disengage, it was the fly wheel depth. Measure the depth of your old fly wheel compared to the new one. I don't remember what the maximum depth is before you loose the ability to disengage the clutch. I also shimmed the ball with a washer. I had to take a socket and grind down the outside diameter to get it to fit.

Jsaum

[yeahmag]

I think normally you shim under the bushing that presses in to the case. I could be wrong, but that's what works for me.

[ripper911]

Did you replace the plastic ball cup on the release arm? While I'm saking questions, here's a BIG one. Did you replace the o-ring in the back of the flywheel? How about the pilot bearing? For the ball, you need a deep 9/16 socket with the splines going all the way down the inside of the socket. Hard to find, but they DO exist. Use one of the washers from the nose cover of the trans. Be sure to pus another washer in its place. The original washers are of a higher quality than the ones you find in the aftermarket, and they're FLAT.

The Cap'n

The O-ring at the back of the flywheel, crankshaft seal? then no.
Didn't think we would be able to set the end play right so left it alone.
Might have to do it...

I'm going to try to get the pivot ball off, I can visualize what I might be able to do to a socket to make it work, grinding it down and such.

Thanks for all the help guys!

Back to work (job) I'll try again thursday.