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> Changed the clutch, one more question...
SUNAB914
post Aug 24 2010, 07:02 AM
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My input to this from what I read.
Flywheel not in spec.
Check to make sure your fork is not bent. That can happen.
Make sure are using the proper clutch and pressure plate.
There is more adjustment on the front of the clutch cable where it attaches to pedal cluster.
Did you replace shift rod bushings? Could be an alignment problem and nothing to do with clutch assembly.
Good luck
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Cap'n Krusty
post Aug 24 2010, 07:39 AM
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QUOTE(ripper911 @ Aug 24 2010, 03:55 AM) *

QUOTE(Cap'n Krusty @ Aug 23 2010, 08:59 PM) *

Did you replace the plastic ball cup on the release arm? While I'm saking questions, here's a BIG one. Did you replace the o-ring in the back of the flywheel? How about the pilot bearing? For the ball, you need a deep 9/16 socket with the splines going all the way down the inside of the socket. Hard to find, but they DO exist. Use one of the washers from the nose cover of the trans. Be sure to pus another washer in its place. The original washers are of a higher quality than the ones you find in the aftermarket, and they're FLAT.

The Cap'n

The O-ring at the back of the flywheel, crankshaft seal? then no.
Didn't think we would be able to set the end play right so left it alone.
Might have to do it...

I'm going to try to get the pivot ball off, I can visualize what I might be able to do to a socket to make it work, grinding it down and such.

Thanks for all the help guys!

Back to work (job) I'll try again thursday.


Typically flywheels don't come with that o-ring installed, and you're gonna have a massive oil leak, right on to your new disc. The Cap'n
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brant
post Aug 24 2010, 07:53 AM
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I only read through this once, so forgive me if I am mistaken.

but I understood that your old flywheel was blue/scored, so you put the used flywheel on. However, you also state that you didn't want to have to reset the endplay and left the crank seal alone.

You still have to reset the endplay any time you change the flywheel. Even if you don't touch the crank seal you still have to reset your endplay. It won't be the reason for your clutch issues, but it will break your crank or wear out your motor in the next few thousand miles if the crank is bouncing forward/back due to excessive end play

If I missed something in the quick read through I apologize, it just seemed that there was a misunderstanding about end play.
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ripper911
post Aug 24 2010, 12:00 PM
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Alright, so I'll have to set the end play.
I read in the pelican write up that most shops don't bother with it so I wasn't too concerned. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/unsure.gif)

I was also concerned with the shift linkage as it seems a to be having trouble going into 4th and 5th, But maybe it works while in motion, I dont usually try to shift into 4th/5th at a standstill... but the set screws only go in one spot, so how can it be wrong? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

Someone said earlier to set the end play with a stiff wire and feeler guages, I'll try that.

But the end play wouldn't effect the clutch activity, so I still have to work that out.

I'll try to get the pivot ball out to shim it.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif)

This is my first time trying to really work on my car.
Thanks for putting up with my lack of experience.
I usually work with flesh.
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ripper911
post Aug 24 2010, 12:07 PM
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I just found something interesting on another thread from 2004.

My release fork dosent have the plactic cup attached, that may be the problem!!!

But I guess it's good that I Haven't been able to drive it before setting the end play first.
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Spoke
post Aug 24 2010, 12:39 PM
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The little plastic ball cup in the clutch fork should be changed when the clutch is changed. If it's missing, then your issue makes sense.
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jsaum
post Aug 24 2010, 12:40 PM
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Yes the plastic cup would affect the travel and probably cause the issue of the clutch not to disengage. I would replace the plastic cup before I tried to shim the pivot ball.

Jsaum
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Bartlett 914
post Aug 24 2010, 01:11 PM
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Why would it be missing unless you took it out? Maybe you didn't see it in there. Often they wear out and the ball sits deeper.
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ripper911
post Aug 24 2010, 04:26 PM
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We are pretty sure there wasn't one there on the old one...

So, one more question. hopefully.

About shimming the crankshaft for end play
Is this a situation where I will have to get everything off, take my measurements to see what size shim I need and then go get that particular size, or are there spares somewhere back there? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)
That will mean my next trip to marietta will be in the middle of doing the job... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mad.gif)
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ripper911
post Aug 25 2010, 08:29 AM
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one last question hopefully, I would like to know this before i get to work again.

Are the shims available as a set so that I can have different thicknesses available or do I have to know which one I need before I go shopping?
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SLITS
post Aug 25 2010, 10:59 AM
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Somewhere in this thread I thought I told you they were all fitted with 3 shims. One thick and two thinner ones.

You put two shims on to start (thick & thin), measure the endplay and then calculate the thickness required for the 3rd shim.

They are probably available from VW or VW parts houses. If not, you have to rely on the board members to find the one you are looking for (or have a couple of spare engines around).

Hopefully, the ones you have will get you into the correct endplay range and you won't have to search for one.
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ripper911
post Aug 25 2010, 11:15 AM
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QUOTE(SLITS @ Aug 25 2010, 12:59 PM) *

Somewhere in this thread I thought I told you they were all fitted with 3 shims. One thick and two thinner ones.

You put two shims on to start (thick & thin), measure the endplay and then calculate the thickness required for the 3rd shim.

They are probably available from VW or VW parts houses. If not, you have to rely on the board members to find the one you are looking for (or have a couple of spare engines around).

Hopefully, the ones you have will get you into the correct endplay range and you won't have to search for one.

You did tell me that. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)
But if the end play has to be changed how would the shims that are already there be made to have a different thickness... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif)

My question was this.
Are these usually available in "variety packs" or will I have to know the exact thickness of the one I need before I go shopping?

After I asked, I looked on the AA site (where I get all of my parts, in store) and they have them individually, so I guess I'll go buy one of every size and hope one is right...

By the way, thank you Slits, you have aswered my questions very well so far,
even if I don't always listen... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/slap.gif)
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