Changing fuel tanks, Recommended clamps? Options

[Pat Garvey]

The fuel tank is ready to be replaced. Haven't removed one in 25 years, but I know it'e easy.

However, what do you recommend for low line clamps? As I recall, the last time I used thumb screw clamps (I was a chemist then & stole them from the lab), but I've lost them. I would think that to be the best choice, since you can control the flow, but can I get these at my local FLAPS?

Any other considerations?
Pat

[VaccaRabite]

all the FLAPS around me sell fuel injection clamps. That's what I would use (and did use).

Just don't use the worm drive clamps.

Zach

[Cap'n Krusty]

If you're talking about blocking the fuel lines to keep fuel from leaking while you remove the tank, I suggest you just drain the tank at the point where the plastic lines meet the rubber at the rear firewall. Removing a tank with even a little fuel in it is a PITA. It's ungainly, heavy, and you risk scratching the underside of the hood while getting it out. Just lift it up, cut the old hoses, and you're done. The Cap'n

[plas76targa]

Pat - I did exactly what the captain says. Drain it from the back just prior to the pump. you can stop the flow with nosed vice grips. I drained into a 1 gal tank and transferred that to a larger container. drain - n - repeat!

[VaccaRabite]

Oh! I misunderstood the question.

I like to work above the car whenever possible. In my case, I removed the expansion tank and used a pump-siphon to empty the gas tank into jerry cans for use in my DD and mower. Was able to get the tank dry except for a few drops that fell into my catch can when I pulled out the tank.

Zach

[realred914]

too answer the question, yes you can clamp off the rubber lines, with hose clamps. they are kind of specialised item, not in all automotive stores. a well stocked hardware store might be a good sorce, as would a internet search. I have some hose clamps that are realy cool, great for feul hose, they are all metal, and via a screw pinch down on the hose via a flat bar with rounded edges aginst another bar. Dont remeber where I got hem however.

You may also buy some small C-clamps, or the tired and true method of shoving teh correct diameter drill bit into the hose end, (quickly!!!) and clamping it down.

vice grips, if carefully aplied (nose across the hose )can also work nice. but note heavey big vice grips or large C-clmaps can weigh so much you have to over tighten them (hence harming the hose) just to prevent gravity from pulling them off (which would give a massive fuel leak!!)


while yoru at the gas tank, now is the time to do any maintanace on the fresh air box , lube the fan, un-clog the drains holes, also any wiper lube should be done now as easy access!
If you have an early car laking the cowl grill screen, get one and install it to keep debries out of the air box, in addtion to the later years screen, consider adding an aluminum window bug screen on top of the factory platsic screen, the factory screen is still too course, and all sort of stuff can still get in.


good luck


when I work on gas tanks, I get real nervvous, nothing like a smoke to calm me nerves as I work. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

PS although you can drain the system as suggested, you will still be advised to clamp the lines as fumes may still escape and debries may enter any uncapped line. Draining the system does not negate the need to clamp the lines closed

[EdwardBlume]

Sorry to be preachy, but if you are working with fuel and fuel vapor, be sure to steer clear of the water heater or any other open flame...

[IronHillRestorations]

I get a couple of 5 gallon fuel cans and pull the supply line to the loop and drain the tank via the fuel pump.

It's much easier to deal with an empty tank.

I think the fuel line clamps I got are either Lisle or OTC brand. You can also put a piece of hose over some needle nose vice grip locking pliers and clamp off the fuel lines like that.