Body flex Options

[Montreal914]

Hello everyone,

I know there has been some post on the subject but I brought some numbers to discuss.

I took measurements of the door gap (left and right) on the top to see how much it moves from resting on the ground to raised on a jack placed under the long at jack point. Car was raised enough to get the back wheel off the ground about a couple of inches.

Left door results:





Right door results:





So, both sides are opening a little more than 1/16". The car is solid, no hell hole problems. Are these figures normal? I think the Engman kit is very attractive, but it doesn't seem to address the same issue. I would assume that a combination of the Engman on the inside, and AA Clamshell on the outside would be a great combo as far as stiffening the tub.

I have a stock 2.0 without any sway bars. I would like to increase the power at some point and improve handling but it seems to me that if the car is aready folding like this, I don't wan't to impose more stress on it. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)

Also, my jack mount is rusted. I will need to dig into this. Can this be repaired without having to cut finished body panels or redo paint job.

Thank you, (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[brant]

I don't think a rust free car flexes that much
how bad is your jack point. That is exactly the spot that would cause door flex. I wonder if its a little deeper than just the jack cover?

I have a rust free car that I'll go measure
I don't think they flex nearly that much normally.

brant

[Montreal914]

I don't think a rust free car flexes that much
how bad is your jack point. That is exactly the spot that would cause door flex. I wonder if its a little deeper than just the jack cover?

I have a rust free car that I'll go measure
I don't think they flex nearly that much normally.

brant

Let's just say that I cant use the original jack because it will bend. I asume that if I remove the rocker I would have acces to remove the current one which would them expose the situation. I don't wan't to get into stuff that will mean paint job because I cannot justify such a expense at the moment.

What do you think of the stiffening options (Engman and AA clamshell). I understand that for the AA part, it involves paint, but I like to plan in advance...

Thanks

[draganc]

I agree with Brant's comment. I have my car on jacks (dropped my engine) and there is no visual flex at the doors with or w/o the top. I would suggest that you investifate the condition of your body before you spend any money on any upgrades that will not help or mask the problem. I know, it's not the answer you where looking for.

Dragan

[brant]

you can patch the longs without adding a "kit"
I'd just pull the rockers and start stripping out the rust
your car is no weaker with the rust cleaned, than it is hidden.

you might be able to patch your problem without buying a kit
you might even be able to buy a chunk of long on the classifieds that is clean and useable?

my 2 cents... see if you can fix your problem before adding a stiffening kit
I don't think the engman is meant to replace a solid frame, its meant as an addition to a full frame for performance applications... see if you can fix your frame first.

[Tom_T]

My money is on rust holes behind the jack tube supports, like behind this on my ex-racer donor shell -



You need to pull off the rockers, then cut off the jack tube supports & look behind there, then go to Restoration Design (member vendor on here) & order up your needed parts - after you check the other usual suspect areas for rust carefully!

http://www.restoration-design.com/Merchant...tegory_Code=914

[Montreal914]

you can patch the longs without adding a "kit"
I'd just pull the rockers and start stripping out the rust
your car is no weaker with the rust cleaned, than it is hidden.

you might be able to patch your problem without buying a kit
you might even be able to buy a chunk of long on the classifieds that is clean and useable?

my 2 cents... see if you can fix your problem before adding a stiffening kit
I don't think the engman is meant to replace a solid frame, its meant as an addition to a full frame for performance applications... see if you can fix your frame first.

OK I will start by removing the rockers and look into the jack point. I still think that any 914 can benificiate from a little added structure. Let's face it, they are getting old, metal and design. Don't get me wrong, I love my car and I enjoy it everyday to go to work. I wouldn't trade it for any modern car.

What do you think of Brad Mayeur long stiffening kit? I uderstand it's on the heavy side, but I'm not building a race car here. Just want to enjoy my daily for years.

[avidfanjpl]

Hi Eric

If the points and posts look no worse than this, you will not need the stiffening kits, all of which add a lot of stiffness.

The jackposts had rust, not terrible, and I cut it out completely, but had no longitudinal impact. Just treated it and welding it closed this week.

Here is a pic or two. Notice the primer is fine. Metal ready and weldthrough primer did the trick from weld prep!

Heavy sanding, brush wheels and high temp flat and gloss paint, and the Monza's are on this weekend.

Thanks!

John

[scotty b]

I'm not building a race car here. Just want to enjoy my daily for years.

Then stop trying to cure cancer with a bandaid and some O.J. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/slap.gif)

Fix the rust.

Old cars are NEVER cheap or easy, I don't understand why people don't get that. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

[nsyr]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

Long reinforcement will not stop the rust and will only (slightly) delay the inevitable.

[Root_Werks]

Wow, that's a lot of flex!

Most 914's I've owned you can put on a jack and still open, close both doors the same as if it was resting on the ground. Little to no gap movement.

I agree with what others have already said, it's nothing new to 914's. Find the cancer, cut it out, clean it up, put new metal in, paint and drive.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)

[SirAndy]

Wow, that's a lot of flex!
Most 914's I've owned you can put on a jack and still open, close both doors the same as if it was resting on the ground. Little to no gap movement.
I agree with what others have already said, it's nothing new to 914's. Find the cancer, cut it out, clean it up, put new metal in, paint and drive.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

The rust is there, you just haven't found it yet ...
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif) Andy

[Montreal914]

Wow, that's a lot of flex!
Most 914's I've owned you can put on a jack and still open, close both doors the same as if it was resting on the ground. Little to no gap movement.
I agree with what others have already said, it's nothing new to 914's. Find the cancer, cut it out, clean it up, put new metal in, paint and drive.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

The rust is there, you just haven't found it yet ...
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif) Andy

OK I will look for it and fix it. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif)

That being said, while I'm in the area isn't logical to beef it up with clamshell or Brad Mayeur kit?

[Root_Werks]

Inner long kit, best you can get. I've installed a few of them.

Engman sells them here and through his web site.

[Drums66]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/yikes.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif)

[Montreal914]

OK, So I pulled off the rockers and this is whats behind. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) I guess this doesn't come as a surprise for many of you who have replied. So I will get into cutting the bad material but the outer long is split (by rust) where I think there is a junction between two panels that compose the outer long.

I was thinking of removing the door sill but maybe it isn't necessary. Maybe just the bad portion. One thing that I would like to avoid is cutting the quarter. Do you think it is possible? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

[Montreal914]

Now the driver side...

[tradisrad]

I'm sorry, that sucks. Do you weld?

[Montreal914]

I'm sorry, that sucks. Do you weld?

Not really. Do you have someone to recommend? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

[mepstein]

Tip of the iceberg. Mine looked similar. Both longs needed major repair/replacement and floors were toast.