Clutch tube fixes Options

[JRust]

Hey Brad you were right about my clutch tube. That was my problem. I put in 2 ubolts in the acces where the shifter is. Spaced about 10" apart. That strengthened it considerably. I'm plannng on putting a few welds on those (inside & underneath the car). For where it comes thru the firwall. Would it hold to just weld where it comes thru the firewall. Or does it need to be on the inside? Anyone? Planning on welding monday & want to make sure this will last! Thanks in advance! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[Brad Roberts]

Honestly Jamie..

I would cut the tunnel and weld it in the factory location without the U bolts.

I would then weld the cracked portion on the firewall with a small scab plate that fits over the tube. Make sure you grind away all the "braze" that they used..otherwise your welds wont hold.

No BS: The U bolts are the cheap way out. It shows me that somebody didnt care enough about the car to fix it correctly (when I look at a car for sale with this method) Not saying it wont work.. just do it right.

B

[Gint]

It's stupid to wish this on myself (or jynx the car) but I wouldn't mind doing that repair on my car. You cut the tunnel as Brad said and for me personally, I would get some welding experience in an area that doesn't show ever unless you lift the carpet. You make a couple of goofs here with the welding and it's not a major scab.

[mightyohm]

Guess what... I have to do this repair too. I noticed the clutch tube floating around tonight while I was working on the shifter. I looked at the bracket with a mirror and sure enough it's detached from the firewall. What a PITA.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/barf.gif)

Does anyone have any tips for cutting the access panel and welding the tube?

I suck at welding so I am going to find someone in SD that can do it or bribe a friend up north to help. If I cut a panel out I am almost tempted to leave it out and have a hole (maybe put a removable lid on) instead of some ugly bent and welded piece.

I guess I knew I was going to have this problem sooner or later. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/ar15.gif)

[GWN7]

Several methods for cutting into the tunnel. Sawsall, use a short blade and watch the angle. Cutoff tool (air powered) uses a thin circular blade. Air sheer, takes a strip of metal about ¼” wide out for every cut you make. Easiest to use is the sawsall, but watch what you doing or you could cause more damage. Cutoff tool is nice to use but the blade can jam when you cutting through sheet steel. Makes very precise cuts

[chunger]

or, use the cutoff tool to cut off the end of a short sawzaw blade to make a "stubby" blade.

-'Chung

mabe?

[boxstr]

Jamie Make the repair but do it correctly, you may try to sell me the car and I will know where to look (IMG:style_emoticons/default/ph34r.gif)
Have another meeting at your place and have Geoff bring his welding tools and all you have to do is serve pizza and beer. Sounds like a fair trade.
Craig

[Bleyseng]

The welding part is the easy part. It is all the cutting and prep, you really want to cut the piece out so it can be welded back cleanly. Grind and sand the whole area that is going to be cut first of all tar and paint. Use a straight edge to make cut lines. I use both a sawzall and a 4" grinder w/ a cutting disc on it. Go slow cutting to make nice straight cuts and of course don't go too deep and chop up everything else that is in the tunnel. Remove the tunnel piece and then clean the clutch tube for welding. Then weld it. Pretty simple if you go slow. Then weld the tunnel piece back on. Put non flammable blankets around the floor of the car if the carpets are still in there too.
Geoff

[Jeffs9146]

Beeee Verrrrrry Carefull not to tag the fuel line when you are welding!!!!!! I tagged :gilloutine: it on my first 914 when I was 19 years old!!!

PPPPoooooooooffffff! Lots of smoke and fire. It was a good thing I had all of the interior out of the car.

Live and learn.

Jeff

[mightyohm]

I'm planning on using MIG to do the welding. I hope this reduces the risk of welding fuel lines... The fuel lines are far enough away that I think I can wrap them in wet rags and stuff to avoid any disasters.

[Bleyseng]

I assume that you would drain the gas tank, pull the front hoses so they drain and blow compressed air thru from the back so the lines are clear of gas. Once you cut a gas line and catch it on fire, sheeeeeeet what a mess! That happened at my old house when I let my son's friend fix his bus in the garage. Didn't listen to me and cut the gas line and ignited it too! Liquid fire everywhere!!!!Gas draining is like a flamethrower!! Not good and kinda hard to put out. They came a woke me up to put out the fire. Boy was I pissed!
Geoff

[Jeffs9146]

I did remove the tank and drained what I thought was all of the gas out, but I didn't blow it out! Big mistake but not as bad as your son!!

Very important, blow out the fuel line before beginning!

Jeff

[JRust]

I did use the u-bolts (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) . I am going to fix it right though. I'm going to cut some of the floor pan out of my parts car. I'll weld it on from underneath. I'll try to get some pics later. It will be done well & look good. I haven't gotten to the fix cause my cars running & I've been enjoying it a bit before I sell it! Of course I'm fixing it before I sell it!

[Kerrys914]

Welding is the way to go..if that is an option.

I did added a "U-clamp" to reduce the stress on factory connection. The factory connection hasn't broken free yet and now with the clamp, I don't think it will.

I cut the excess bolt of underneeth the car to help with the looks (if anyone is looking under me car???)

And as stated above be CAREFULL !!!!!!!!!!!!!!


Kerry (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[Brad Roberts]

http://www.all914.com/projects/Drobbins/cl...befix/index.htm

Fire away with the questions. I noticed somebody on PP posted some pics of his repair. I thought I would show a different method.

http://www.all914.com/projects/Drobbins/cl...befix/index.htm


B

[Dave_Darling]

Did that thing you put into the end of the clutch tube used to be an intake valve? Odd looking thing... Aluminum, though, good for a heat sink!

--DD

[Brad Roberts]

I dont know what it was used for prior to having one side knocked off. The head was too big and not allowing the clutch tube to fall back all the way against the tunnel wall when clamped. So.. I modified it.

Worked well and kept me from burning thru the tube with "weld" (ask me how I learned that ) ha ha.. bad day.


B

[jonwatts]

I really like that fix. Tell me again (cuz I forget) why you think they break. Tunnel rust? Clutch cable failure? Bad day at the factory 30 years ago?

I'm going to check mine rather brutally when I get my car back.

hmm, new project to start on.

[Demick]

Nice pics Brad. Good tip on the tube filler thingie.

FYI, this is probably not a good application for the auto-darkening welding shields. Anytime you are weding in a hole like that, or under a ledge or something, you have to be very careful with the auto-darkening helmets. If the solar cell that darkens the shield cannot 'see' the arc (shaded because it doesn't have a direct line of sight to the arc), then it won't darken. I learned that the hard way when I was welding my exhaust. Couldn't figure out why the helmet sometimes wouldn't darken - then finally figured out that part of the muffler was 'shading' the solar cell.

Brad: I looked at my car this weekend. My clutch tube was re-welded through the shifter hole. This put the brace about 5 inches back from where the factory brace was located. Tube seems very solid with that brace (used a big 'ol screwdriver to pry the front part of the tube to see if it would flex at all - it didn't). Ever seen it done like this?

Demick
'74 2.0