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> New Twist - 5-Lug Fronts
Eric_Shea
post Sep 16 2010, 08:32 PM
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For the cheap and easy 5-lug conversion, here's a new (old) twist on the 914 rotor method. As mentioned in the "5-Lug Question & Answer Thread":

<<My preference in doing this now would be to machine the rotors from the front and use screw in 14x1.5mm studs (yes, I can hear a few screaming in horror as I type this). IF DONE PROPERLY this would be my preferred method. First off; it will not cut into the webbing on the backside. Secondly; to do it properly would require Loctite “Red”… the permanent stuff. This is, after all, a permanent application. Late model rotors will need the centering ring machined off to work with Fuchs. This requires a bit more time and money at the machine shop but, a fairly common and easy practice.>>

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=105728

I decided to do a set this way and I'm "very" pleased with the results all around.

First, looking at the backside you can see none of the webs have to be cut out or removed. In order to press in a Verbus stud a major amount of the webbing on two webs had to be removed. Not here:
Attached Image

The key to doing this right is to use the "Red Stuff":
Attached Image

Here's the application on the threads:
Attached Image

Finished product:
Attached Image

Bottom line: 5x130 pattern with a 14x1.5 tap, 10 14/14x1.5 studs, Red locking compound and away you go. These are also late rotors that have had the centering ring milled off to accomodate the Fuchs. Yeah they're not Verbus but in this configuration I'll guarantee them against the life of the rotor (and then some). What I mean by and then some is, if you go through a rotor you can simply heat these with a MAP torch and remove them and use them on the new setup.

Again, if you're intent on using 914 rotors, I think this is not only the best way to do this (more meat on the back of the rotor and very clean install) but, quite accessable for the home mechanic. You just need to pay the machine shop. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)
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Mike Bellis
post Sep 16 2010, 10:14 PM
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Since I have 930 rotors and callipers, I'm not in the market for a re-drill. It looks perfectly fine to me for a street car. If I were to re-drill, I may consider going to a 5x114.5 or some other bolt spread. Just think of the possible wheel choices with a different pattern. Of course, If you must have Fuchs you have to stay at 130mm.
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DanT
post Sep 16 2010, 10:23 PM
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Nice Eric...
I have no issues with the screw in studs..as a matter of fact I have taken some flak for it over the years after using them on a couple of my builds...actually I am using them currently on my latest build...
I like this as a less expensive option to go to 5 lug.
I like the studs since you can then use Porsche original lug nuts


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Eric_Shea
post Sep 16 2010, 10:34 PM
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QUOTE
I have no issues with the screw in studs


Yup. The main problem I've seen with screw in studs is the people that screw them in. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) If they don't use a locking agent they "will" come loose.

I really think this is the best route for this application.

QUOTE
If I were to re-drill, I may consider going to a 5x113.5 or some other bolt spread


Yup... I would imagine any pattern could be indexed around the holes. With the 5x130 you can keep one and drill only 4 more. That's helpful.
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SGB
post Sep 16 2010, 10:41 PM
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studs (and an impact gum) are great if you have AX tires...
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DanT
post Sep 16 2010, 10:50 PM
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I used screw in studs and loctite on my Phoenix Red racecar....
torqued and used a cordless 19.2V impact gun for 3years and never had one stud come loose...
that car was flat towed, so the street wheels/tires were on for towing and then the race tires went on at the venue...
Worked great.
If I decide to go to a 5 lug on my current car, I would consider doing just what Eric has suggested.
good stuff.. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
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rick 918-S
post Sep 17 2010, 06:12 AM
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I've used screw in studs a time or two. I never use an impact gun on wheels. I use a torque wrench by hand to 65 lbs. You damage the lug nuts, stretch studs, and in extreme cases actually warp the stud flange. I'm not changing tires like NASCAR.
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DanT
post Sep 17 2010, 08:16 AM
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my impact gun is not strong enough to torque the wheels. It is only for getting the lugs off after being broken loose or for putting the lugs on before torquing. Just easier on the hands than twisting 16-20 lugs into place for torquing (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
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sixnotfour
post Sep 17 2010, 09:17 AM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif)
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sixnotfour
post Sep 17 2010, 09:17 AM
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Eric_Shea
post Sep 17 2010, 02:32 PM
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I should have said "New Twist" for us...

I've seen a lot of these in the past and, when you think your way through it, it's probably the best route if the locking compound is used. That's basically why I wanted to document it. To show how easy it is and to make sure others use the locking compound.
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bandjoey
post Sep 17 2010, 02:51 PM
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I didn't see these on your www. If Santa were to bring a set of 5 lug wheels what's the cost of front and rear rotors w/lugs installed?
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gothspeed
post Mar 13 2011, 05:02 PM
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Are these studs available in longer lengths? If so, from who (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)?
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sixnotfour
post Mar 13 2011, 06:02 PM
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http://www.race-studs.com/servlet/the-20/M...-Nose%27/Detail
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gothspeed
post Mar 13 2011, 06:41 PM
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QUOTE(sixnotfour @ Mar 13 2011, 05:02 PM) *

Awesome (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)!!! Has anyone done this drill/tap/stud method on the rear?
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recko911
post Mar 14 2011, 10:42 PM
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QUOTE(gothspeed @ Mar 13 2011, 05:41 PM) *

QUOTE(sixnotfour @ Mar 13 2011, 05:02 PM) *

Awesome (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)!!! Has anyone done this drill/tap/stud method on the rear?


good question is this possible?
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DanT
post Mar 14 2011, 10:44 PM
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why not....
just like using pulled studs just tapping instead of straight drilling. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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Eric_Shea
post Mar 15 2011, 10:41 AM
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Yes... I have a set here. Want them? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
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