Lemforder ball joints, Removal and Installation? |
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Lemforder ball joints, Removal and Installation? |
avidfanjpl |
Sep 22 2010, 12:15 PM
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#1
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914 Hemophiliac Group: Members Posts: 720 Joined: 6-April 10 From: Bear, Delaware Member No.: 11,566 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
Anyone know of a thread (I have NOT checked Pelican) to show in pics and words how to remove and install new balljoints in a 914?
I have been here almost 18 months, and do not remember one. But I bet there is one. I get too many hits on a balljoint search. Don't have days to look for it. Thanks! John |
Cupomeat |
Sep 22 2010, 12:32 PM
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#2
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missing my NY 914 in VA Group: Members Posts: 1,336 Joined: 26-November 07 From: Oakton VA Member No.: 8,376 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
Well, here it is in a nutshell and you need a special castellated socket for the lower nut.
1. Lift the offending corner and secure it on jack stands, remove the wheel. 2. on the bottom of the A arm, remove the pin and keeper. 3. Use the special castellated socket to loosen the round castellated nut. Do not remove it yet. This can be difficult. 4. Loosen the nut on the bolt or pin (depending on the year) on the strut housing that holds the balljoint shaft to the spindle. 5. Gently drive out the bolt or Pin (keep the nut on the pin/bolt to protect the threads 6. Attempt to separate the ball joint shaft from the spindle (strut housing), but usually, I have to find a small chisel to spread the channel to get it out. 7. Once you have the ball joint shaft out of the spindle, remove the bottom ball joint castellated nut and remove the ball joint. NOTE: The balljoint has a detent on the outer circumference to make sure it is aligned properly in the A-Arm, so make sure it fits nicely in the A-Arm, don't force it. It also has a cut out on the shaft for the bolt/pin in the spindle, so watch for it when orienting the assembly. To assemble, 1. Slide the new ball joint into the A-Arm (correct orientation) and up into the spindle. 2. put on the castellated nut on the bottom and snug it up. 3. Replace the pin, or reuse the bolt on the spindle and make note of the shaft cut out where the pin/bolt goes on the ball joint shaft and turn it properly to align when fitting the pin/bolt in. 4. Tighten the pin/bolt to torque spec 5. Tighten the castellated nut to torque spec AFTER taking a good look to make sure it is seated properly. Otherwise you can bend your mounting area on the a-arm 6. Install the keeper and a new cotter pin on the bottom. 7. Move the spindle back and forth to make sure it is not binding, etc, and reinstall the wheel. 8. Take the car off jackstands before they start adhering themselves to the car. There, I think I have everything, but no doubt others will chime in. I hope that helps. |
914 shifter |
Sep 23 2010, 02:24 PM
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#3
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airhead Group: Members Posts: 266 Joined: 28-August 10 From: ny/nj Member No.: 12,111 Region Association: North East States |
my 70 1.7 castle nut/threads were so corroded i had to carefully burn the old ball joint out. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif) NE car (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mad.gif)
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kenshapiro2002 |
Sep 23 2010, 06:31 PM
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#4
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,441 Joined: 23-July 09 From: Bawlmer, MD Member No.: 10,598 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
Also, that special castellated nut tool to remove the ball joint ? It's really meant for installing not removing. Almost no way to keep it tight enough (upside down) against that nut to be effective as it takes gargantuan strength to remove. I was only successful (thanks to advice on here) using a big fucking pipe wrench (14") penetrating spray, and an electric heat gun. I used the "special" tool to install the new (should replace those things) nuts. Also, don't buy the expensive Porsche tool...get a matching socket from a FLAP store...there's one used on Ford 4 wheel drive axle nuts that fits almost perfectly, certainly close enough to work.
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smontanaro |
Sep 23 2010, 07:51 PM
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#5
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,190 Joined: 3-June 05 From: Evanston, IL Member No.: 4,197 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
Quick tip on searching... Don't waste your time with the search facility here. Instead, use Google, restricting your search to 914world.com, e.g.:
CODE site:914world.com ball joint |
qa1142 |
Sep 23 2010, 07:53 PM
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#6
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Whiplash Group: Members Posts: 1,514 Joined: 1-June 04 From: Lake Zurich, Illinois Member No.: 2,140 |
Quick tip on searching... Don't waste your time with the search facility here. Instead, use Google, restricting your search to 914world.com, e.g.: CODE site:914world.com ball joint Leave it t a software guy t know a cheat (IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif) How are you Dave? |
kphimself |
Sep 23 2010, 08:23 PM
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#7
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Member Group: Members Posts: 124 Joined: 6-September 10 From: VA Beach, VA /Fayetteville, NC Member No.: 12,146 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
Also, that special castellated nut tool to remove the ball joint ? It's really meant for installing not removing. Almost no way to keep it tight enough (upside down) against that nut to be effective as it takes gargantuan strength to remove. I was only successful (thanks to advice on here) using a big fucking pipe wrench (14") penetrating spray, and an electric heat gun. I used the "special" tool to install the new (should replace those things) nuts. Also, don't buy the expensive Porsche tool...get a matching socket from a FLAP store...there's one used on Ford 4 wheel drive axle nuts that fits almost perfectly, certainly close enough to work. LOL i used the pipe wrench method as well. |
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