Aux Air Regulator, How tight should it close Options

[rwilner]

So, I decided to test out my AAR. It heats up and actuates bu when fully hot i can still blow a little air through it.

Is that normal, or should it really shut tight?

[srb7f]

should shut completely, but it takes a good 10 minutes if your engine isn't on. Try the WD-40/liquid wrench trick described on the Anders website:

http://members.rennlist.com/pbanders/DJetParts.htm

[76-914]

So, I decided to test out my AAR. It heats up and actuates bu when fully hot i can still blow a little air through it.

Is that normal, or should it really shut tight?

Brad Landers said they have two closed stages. Almost closed and fully closed. If your car idles normally you can watch the 2 drops on the tach. But yes, it should close eventually. Maybe 6-10 min's after started.

[rwilner]

So, I decided to test out my AAR. It heats up and actuates bu when fully hot i can still blow a little air through it.

Is that normal, or should it really shut tight?

Brad Landers said they have two closed stages. Almost closed and fully closed. If your car idle normally you can watch the 2 drops on the tach.

my car doesn't do that -- it idles around 1800 rpm, then it drops about 950 rpm, but in reality it does this wavering thing between 950 and 1000. I think that's normal though.

2 other Questions:

1) will the AAR heat up and close if I turn the key to accessory (switched stuff comes on) but NOT to the crank position?

2) When i took it out of the car and shook it gently, i could hear a rattle inside (when cold). Is that normal?

[jim_hoyland]

I have tested several l-Jet AARs and found I could blow air through them when I closed them in a bench test; they still worked fine though when installed.

My AARs will close in 1 1/2 - 2 minutes at ambient temp. They require little maintenance.

[srb7f]

1. I am not sure, but I doubt it would have power when the accessory only is on. It is just an air bypass valve around the throttle body to help with cold starts, and my guess is that the car would be hard to start if the AAR closes if you listen to the radio for 10 minutes before starting the car (mine isn't).

2. Mine doesn't. Something loose inside? Opening the thing up to diagnose sounds a bit complicated according to Brad Anders, so if it's working, you may want to hold off on cracking it open.

[tradisrad]

mine did not work so I took it apart and found that there is an adjustment screw inside that allowed me to get it fully closed. there is also a heater element on the bottom inside of the valve; perhaps this is broken and it is the rattle you hear.
I went for years and years w/o an aar vavle and I am so glad that I got it to work as warm us is much more friendly.

[rwilner]

mine did not work so I took it apart and found that there is an adjustment screw inside that allowed me to get it fully closed. there is also a heater element on the bottom inside of the valve; perhaps this is broken and it is the rattle you hear.
I went for years and years w/o an aar vavle and I am so glad that I got it to work as warm us is much more friendly.

How did you take it apart?

[srb7f]

How did you take it apart?

It is detailed on the Brad Anders website above. Fortunately, I was able to get mine working well just by cleaning with WD-40 and leaving it upside down overnight. Taking it apart is the next step I believe under the trouble-shooting section.

[pete000]

I am a bit confused. My 1.8 has a hard time idling when cold. I took the AAR out and and bench tested it. I cleaned it out and it seems to be good and free. I checked the resistance and it is right on spec at 30 ohms. I also hooked it up to 12 volts and it fully closed in about 1.5 minutes. I can see no light through the tube in its fully closed position.

Now the issue. When it is cold it looks to be only partially opened. No where near fully open. I read there are three positions. Fully closed, half closed, and fully open. I would say mine is about half open when cold. I have no rattles and it seems nice and free.

Suggestions? any one have one out that can take a look through the tube what it looks like?

I am tempted to order a new one.

Thanks

Photo showing in closed position:

[jim_hoyland]

At ambient temperature, the hole is between 1/3 and 1/2 open. Put into the freezer and it opens more.

If you are getting 1/3 open when engine is cold, you should be OK. Mine works fine at 1/3 open cold like the picture below. At start up, engine idles at about 1600 rpm and drops don to 1200 in two minutes, then down to 1000 by five minutes ( I set my idle a little higher that spec )

[Cupomeat]

Those shots look like the brand new ones on a spring morn.

Usually if it moves at all, it is fine.

[9fourteen14]

I am a bit confused. My 1.8 has a hard time idling when cold. I took the AAR out and and bench tested it. I cleaned it out and it seems to be good and free. I checked the resistance and it is right on spec at 30 ohms. I also hooked it up to 12 volts and it fully closed in about 1.5 minutes. I can see no light through the tube in its fully closed position.

Now the issue. When it is cold it looks to be only partially opened. No where near fully open. I read there are three positions. Fully closed, half closed, and fully open. I would say mine is about half open when cold. I have no rattles and it seems nice and free.

Suggestions? any one have one out that can take a look through the tube what it looks like?

I am tempted to order a new one.

Thanks

Photo showing in closed position:

Hi where can we order a new Auxiliary Air Regulator? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/bye1.gif)

[pete000]

NLA and near impossible to buy new now.

Bus Depot had some NOS a while ago, but not sure if they still do.

[Rand]

If you can't find one.... Ditch it and plug it. A good example of extra junk. But that's just me.