push rhod, seal replacement Options

[VaccaRabite]

4 quarts for a stock motor. Just make sure that whatever oil you get has indicated high levels of ZDDP. If its not Brad Penn, I really don't know for sure the formulation as my research is not up to date this year.

Zach

[914itis]

4 quarts for a stock motor. Just make sure that whatever oil you get has indicated high levels of ZDDP. If its not Brad Penn, I really don't know for sure the formulation as my research is not up to date this year.

Zach

Thanks Zach, Did you see the PM I sent you on the progress?

[VaccaRabite]

Yeah, I got it last night.
If you are driving around at 34degrees advanced, you are over advanced on that 1.7 and it could lead to issues up to and including melted pistons or broken cranks due to detonation.

With the vacuum tubes removed, your timing should be set to 27 degrees on a stock 1.7. Replace the vac tubes before you go driving... With the factory advance, you may loose some of the pep the engine has, as advance is one of the ways you can tune in power - but that power comes at the price of more heat and heat will kill an air cooled engine fast.

with the leaks fixed and the timing set you should be able to drive the car like you stole it and have it come back asking for more.

Zach

[914itis]

Yeah, I got it last night.
If you are driving around at 34degrees advanced, you are over advanced on that 1.7 and it could lead to issues up to and including melted pistons or broken cranks due to detonation.

With the vacuum tubes removed, your timing should be set to 27 degrees on a stock 1.7. Replace the vac tubes before you go driving... With the factory advance, you may loose some of the pep the engine has, as advance is one of the ways you can tune in power - but that power comes at the price of more heat and heat will kill an air cooled engine fast.

with the leaks fixed and the timing set you should be able to drive the car like you stole it and have it come back asking for more.

Zach

THe only thing is that I do not see any vac tubes. there is none on my distributor. Am I looking at the wrong place?

The car dives fine now, I have no problem. Should I still touch that timing to put it back at 27 degree?

[VaccaRabite]

your dizzy may not be a vac advance dizzy. Yes, I would still set it back to 27 degrees. I would not go further without head temp gauges to watch for redline head temps. Also, if you are still on that tank of 93 octane, you are going to start pinging again like crazy when you move back to regular gas (which you should be able to drive on just fine).

Zach

[914itis]

your dizzy may not be a vac advance dizzy. Yes, I would still set it back to 27 degrees. I would not go further without head temp gauges to watch for redline head temps. Also, if you are still on that tank of 93 octane, you are going to start pinging again like crazy when you move back to regular gas (which you should be able to drive on just fine).

Zach

just as you told me. at 34, after driving it for about 15 minutes on the Highway, the engine gets hot and the cranking comes back. pulled over let it cool poff for 5 minutes and its good again for another 10.

I just reset it at 27, I have to wait for the engine to get cool, to test it again. My gauge temp does not work. Do you know where I can finsd a wiring diagram for thetemperature gauge?

My flappes on the oil sid stays closed all the time with the one on the driver's side open. Is that normal?

[Cevan]

As for the poster who used sealant, that's a mistake, and it's likely you're also gonna have problems. I use motor oil, Jake uses a non-hardening sealant, and no one experienced with these engines recommends anything else. The tubes have to be able to move in the bores, even though it's not very much.

The Cap'n

No problems after 2200 miles. Permatex thread sealant is non-hardening.

[914itis]

I did not understand your last post Cap'n