Cooling Flaps Options

[914Mike]

Jake was being subtle. write it on a calendar and take a picture.
your flap over the cooler is tweeked in the hot position and will not do its job . please fix it.

Good catch, Sean. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/thumb3d.gif)

To clarify, there should be no gap when the bellows is _expanded_.

[McMark]

To clarify, there should be no gap when the bellows is _expanded_.

True, but it would be 'when the bellows are _expanded_.'

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif)

[enderw88]

To clarify, there should be no gap when the bellows is _expanded_.

True, but it would be 'when the bellows are _expanded_.'

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif)

I don't know if newbs are allowed to audition for the grammar police, but "bellows" can be treated as a singular noun. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/stirthepot.gif)

[McMark]

I don't like it. I decree my interpretation to be correct. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif)

[enderw88]

I don't like it. I decree my interpretation to be correct. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif)

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/pray.gif)

[sean_v8_914]

gramar police should has at least 200 posts to qualify. we need an admin ruling on this most impotant issue

[jaxdream]

phuch em , make hims dos a tyme aught &&&&& (IMG:style_emoticons/default/stirthepot.gif)

Jack / Jaxdream

[MikeM]

Just to be clear....I'm missing some parts from my system, so the flaps are in the default position which is the cold position??? Why not default the flaps to the hot engine condition and direct as much air as possible around the oil cooler?
Is that not more important than a quick warm up?
Am I inviting a meltdown? Temp. is around "half" on the gauge.
Or am I missing something?
Cheers

[TheCabinetmaker]

Mike, the default is to the hot in case the cable breaks.

[SirAndy]

Mike, the default is to the hot in case the cable breaks.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

[Root_Werks]

I see three major points that have been made to the thread starter:

CHT is not on #3
Tin over oil cooler has gap
Proper setting/adjustment of cooling flaps

Those seem like engine life savers and the person who is building this engine should be thankful there are folks out here to point things like that out. Otherwise, it'd be a short lived engine.

[MikeM]

Thanks guys...if I would have thought about that for one more minute, I wouldn't have posted!!!
Thanks,
Mike

[avidfanjpl]

Mike,

On the standard temp gauge in the console in the middle, the temp gauge should be under the T in TEMP pretty much ALL the time after warmup.

I have owned 6 914 4's and none of them ever went over the T on the Temp gauge, even in St. Louis, one of the hottest/most humid places on earth.

That motor is running VERY hot. Change the oil, check the sensor, and replace it just for safety's sake. Many on here say that 220 is warm for oil and 240 is BAD.

I believe them.

On a cold motor, flap bolt tiedown should be all the way to the REAR of the motor and the flap rod will rotate FORWARD at proper temperature.

CLOSED is default with wire attached firmly, and closed is the flaps rod pulled ALL THE WAY BACK, not forward. Maybe your rod is rotated so the flaps are in the wrong position on the rod? Not sure.

As the thermostat bellows heats, it expands and the wire lengthens, so to speak, and opens the flaps to divert heat to the oil cooler passenger side, and out the fan exit on the drivers side.

I had a wire break right after an engine rebuild and the main bearings scored and disintegrated because it ran too cold in NJ, on my first teener. Motor was toast in 1000 miles. Had to redo the bottom all over again. OUCH!

Too hot and many things can go even more badly.

Good luck!

John

[914Mike]

...

On a cold motor, flap bolt tiedown should be all the way to the REAR of the motor and the flap rod will rotate FORWARD at proper temperature.

I disagree with the "ALL the way" part.

CLOSED is default with wire attached firmly, and closed is the flaps rod pulled ALL THE WAY BACK, not forward. ...
John

Yes, closed is ALL the WAY back, but if you set it closed ALL the way, it will never get to open ALL the way. (The thermostat does not have enough range to do both.)

I maintain that when hot, it is more important to be completely open then it is to be completely closed when cold. YMMV in extreme cold environments of course. But summer? Make sure it's OPEN when warmed up.

[914Mike]

Grammar police should have at least 200 posts to qualify. We need an admin ruling on this most important issue.

I believe that the relevant rule is not "more than 200 posts", but "members with numbers less than 200". (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

That being so, I declare myself correct, and redeem the reputation of the newbie, who not only provided proof in his link, but an eloquent description of my correctness.

I have munificently corrected your spelling and grammar for your edification, Sir. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

[avidfanjpl]

Everyone has an opinion based on experience on these 4 bangers, and I really do see what Mike is saying, but truly, the engine should not go over idle until it has come up to temp. Running cold is as dangerous as running hot. I will never forget the pieces in the strainer a week after reinstall and run in. WAS I PISSED OR WHAT?

My flaps on my current car, with a new bellows, wire and crimped end goes from all the way closed to mostly open in 5 minutes. It may not be totally open, and maybe a summer/winter variation is what is called for. If all the parts are good and correct, that is not at all unreasonable.

Does Jake or another builder have an opinion?

I actually measured it in each season over the last 2 years. Now SoCal is not even close tempwise to NorCal, or like someplace actually DAMN cold, but I blew an engine running too cold, and many have ruined engines too hot.

It is a 40 year old design.

John