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> Can my 914 run on a 14v battery?, Will it tolerate it?
Rod
post Oct 28 2010, 03:34 PM
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QUOTE(messix @ Oct 28 2010, 10:20 PM) *

here ya go. just need to do same fab work to make it work,
http://www.jegs.com/p/Powermaster/Powermas...042142/10002/-1



Are any of those bolt in?? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)
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messix
post Oct 28 2010, 03:36 PM
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prolly not.

go check over on the samba and see if any of them are using 16v on a t4.
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windforfun
post Oct 28 2010, 03:45 PM
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QUOTE(Rod @ Oct 28 2010, 02:12 PM) *

QUOTE(windforfun @ Oct 28 2010, 10:01 PM) *

Do you use "pi" filters to eliminate engine noise?


What the hell are they? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)


No I dont. If you have a system wired correctly first time round without any ground loops you will have zero noise!


The schematic looks like the Greek letter pi. Two caps & one choke.

I agree, ground loops are bad, but I disagree about zero noise. Teach me. I've always run into either alternator noise (direct coupled) or ignition noise (RFI perhaps) issues with my sound system installations. Maybe your McIntosh gear has built in power supply filters. Yes? No? Thanks.
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Rod
post Oct 28 2010, 03:55 PM
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QUOTE(windforfun @ Oct 28 2010, 10:45 PM) *

QUOTE(Rod @ Oct 28 2010, 02:12 PM) *

QUOTE(windforfun @ Oct 28 2010, 10:01 PM) *

Do you use "pi" filters to eliminate engine noise?


What the hell are they? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)


No I dont. If you have a system wired correctly first time round without any ground loops you will have zero noise!


The schematic looks like the Greek letter pi. Two caps & one choke.

I agree, ground loops are bad, but I disagree about zero noise. Teach me. I've always run into either alternator noise (direct coupled) or ignition noise (RFI perhaps) issues with my sound system installations. Maybe your McIntosh gear has built in power supply filters. Yes? No? Thanks.


OK I'm using a HU, a pro audio (Alto UCS Pro) processor, two amps and 7 speakers in my 914 and it's noiseless.. Alt noise is always because of ground loops. A ground loop can be caused by so many things - stargrounding is a good idea and also look at the quality of your grounding points - most people don't want to drill into the chassis so use a seatbelt mounting bolt as the amp grounding point, but was the paint removed prior to bolting up? is it against bare metal... etc and you can then easily see the problems.. I have all my equipment grounded to the battery - HU too - I have run both positive and negative circuits around the car to feed all the equipment ( I hate relying on chassis points as they can corrode, especially on a car as old as me!!) If you want to have a browse of a good car audio forum over in the UK, have a look at www.talkaudio.co.uk - a great site and lots of you Americans are coming over to it as it's got a superb European audience - not that I'm biased as a moderator!


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windforfun
post Oct 28 2010, 04:03 PM
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QUOTE(Rod @ Oct 28 2010, 02:55 PM) *

QUOTE(windforfun @ Oct 28 2010, 10:45 PM) *

QUOTE(Rod @ Oct 28 2010, 02:12 PM) *

QUOTE(windforfun @ Oct 28 2010, 10:01 PM) *

Do you use "pi" filters to eliminate engine noise?


What the hell are they? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)


No I dont. If you have a system wired correctly first time round without any ground loops you will have zero noise!


The schematic looks like the Greek letter pi. Two caps & one choke.

I agree, ground loops are bad, but I disagree about zero noise. Teach me. I've always run into either alternator noise (direct coupled) or ignition noise (RFI perhaps) issues with my sound system installations. Maybe your McIntosh gear has built in power supply filters. Yes? No? Thanks.


OK I'm using a HU, a pro audio (Alto UCS Pro) processor, two amps and 7 speakers in my 914 and it's noiseless.. Alt noise is always because of ground loops. A ground loop can be caused by so many things - stargrounding is a good idea and also look at the quality of your grounding points - most people don't want to drill into the chassis so use a seatbelt mounting bolt as the amp grounding point, but was the paint removed prior to bolting up? is it against bare metal... etc and you can then easily see the problems.. I have all my equipment grounded to the battery - HU too - I have run both positive and negative circuits around the car to feed all the equipment ( I hate relying on chassis points as they can corrode, especially on a car as old as me!!) If you want to have a browse of a good car audio forum over in the UK, have a look at www.talkaudio.co.uk - a great site and lots of you Americans are coming over to it as it's got a superb European audience - not that I'm biased as a moderator!


Wow!!! Very cool!!! Got any pics? Thanks!!!

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/drooley.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/drooley.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/drooley.gif)
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Rod
post Oct 28 2010, 04:13 PM
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QUOTE(windforfun @ Oct 28 2010, 11:03 PM) *



Sure http://www.talkaudio.co.uk/ipb/index.php/t...install-thread/

Or if you don't want to read thirty pages, look here at just the pics - http://gallery.me.com/rodericdavies#100050...mp;sel= (scroll to the end and work backwards for the most recent stuff...)
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stugray
post Oct 28 2010, 04:22 PM
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Rod,

"So anyone that has a cap that says it improves their sound system you can now inform them of their weaknesses!"

That is not entirely true....

There are new Ultra-capacitors that can store EXPLOSIVE amounts of energy.
If these are placed close to the amplifier, then they can provide extra power when the amp is pulling a lot of current, then re-charge when the amp is pulling less current.

They are more than a filter, they are an energy source for load leveling.

Stu
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windforfun
post Oct 28 2010, 04:22 PM
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QUOTE(Rod @ Oct 28 2010, 03:13 PM) *

QUOTE(windforfun @ Oct 28 2010, 11:03 PM) *



Sure http://www.talkaudio.co.uk/ipb/index.php/t...install-thread/

Or if you don't want to read thirty pages, look here at just the pics - http://gallery.me.com/rodericdavies#100050...mp;sel=0(scroll to the end and work backwards for the most recent stuff...)


Sweet. Don't let that car out of your sight.
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Rod
post Oct 28 2010, 04:31 PM
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QUOTE(stugray @ Oct 28 2010, 11:22 PM) *

Rod,

"So anyone that has a cap that says it improves their sound system you can now inform them of their weaknesses!"

That is not entirely true....

There are new Ultra-capacitors that can store EXPLOSIVE amounts of energy.
If these are placed close to the amplifier, then they can provide extra power when the amp is pulling a lot of current, then re-charge when the amp is pulling less current.

They are more than a filter, they are an energy source for load leveling.

Stu


Sorry, but still a waste of money. SUPERB marketing but a waste of money. An amp has an array of capacitors that store the amount of voltage it needs to produce it's maximum output, adding another cap before these is just a waste of time, the battery that fills this cap either fills the additional caps reserve, or the amps reserve first, now I know which one I would rather have topped up instantaniously, and it's not the external cap. In fact because the battery is desperately trying to fill the external cap the amps' caps are being deprived of the power they need so in fact it is doing the complete opposite to it's purpose.. Some of my friends run 15kw systems doing 20hz at 155db and the only caps in their cars are on their heads (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sunglasses.gif)
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jsayre914
post Oct 28 2010, 04:35 PM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

You dont need a cap, but an extra battery never hurt (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif)

p.s. you put so much time into morphs kicks to make them custom. Why did you not seal them??
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Rod
post Oct 28 2010, 04:39 PM
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QUOTE(jsayre914 @ Oct 28 2010, 11:35 PM) *

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

You dont need a cap, but an extra battery never hurt (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif)

p.s. you put so much time into morphs kicks to make them custom. Why did you not seal them??


The KEF drivers I was using need a large volume of air behind them, so going IB was the best way to get them to work. Having the sub in the footwell helps as this can play upto about 80k so a load of the midbass is now produced by it... The morph builds are now history and I have studio drivers in the doors (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)
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windforfun
post Oct 28 2010, 04:43 PM
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I use KEFs & Tannoys at home. I just don't have the time or energy anymore to put a system in the 914.
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windforfun
post Oct 28 2010, 04:45 PM
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This is as far as I got.

Attached Image
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Mike Bellis
post Oct 28 2010, 07:09 PM
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The theory behind the "stiffening Cap" is not about added power or voltage. It works because the Capacitor can charge and discharge faster than the car battery. A car battery is made to discharge a massive amount of current to start a car. This massive current is actually slow compared to an amplifier power supply. The electron speed (coulombs) from a car battery is slower than an amplifier consumes current just before clipping. The Stiffening Capacitor can charge and discharge at the same rate as the amplifier power supply. Most people and systems will never see the benefit of the capacitor as most systems are not played contiouously at clipping levels. Although when alternators do not have enough capacity or when power cables are long distance from the battery, they can have some noticeable effect. If your amplifier has a superior power supply the Capacitor willl also have less noticeable effect.

I am a former IASCA judge (International Auto Sound Challenge Association). It has been my experience that most Americans are not true Audiophiles. Most of us want loud bass so that our neighbors a mile away can hear it. boom boom boom. The equipment Rod is running is far superior to what most people use (and more expensive)

I agree with Rod about noise. If it installed correctly the first time you will not have noise. You also need to use quality equipment from a major brand. However, most mid to high quality equipment can benefit from a stiffening cap since most do not have superior internal power supplies.
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Cap'n Krusty
post Oct 28 2010, 07:14 PM
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Your FI control unit doesn't like either low or high voltages. It likes 12 to a little over 13. Voltages other than those in that range can cause changes in mixture.

The Cap'n
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windforfun
post Oct 28 2010, 07:22 PM
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Most interesting. You guys know your shit.
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