Home  |  Forums  |  914 Info  |  Blogs
 
914World.com - The fastest growing online 914 community!
 
Porsche, and the Porsche crest are registered trademarks of Dr. Ing. h.c. F. Porsche AG. This site is not affiliated with Porsche in any way.
Its only purpose is to provide an online forum for car enthusiasts. All other trademarks are property of their respective owners.
 

Welcome Guest ( Log In | Register )

 
Reply to this topicStart new topic
> Mildly OT: Staining Wood, for sub enclosure under the dash
Mockmaw
post Apr 10 2003, 03:15 PM
Post #1


Member
**

Group: Members
Posts: 163
Joined: 18-March 03
From: Berkeley/San Diego, CA
Member No.: 438



Hi all, I'm hoping that there's a woodworker amongst us that can lend a little advice.

I'm almost finished with the sub enclosure that goes under my dash; it's based off of my old center deposit box which was falling apart. I'd like to stain the box as opposed to painting it a flat color. So I spent some time browsing at Home Depot today but after spending 45 minutes trying to get a little assistance/advice, I stormed out frustrated.

It seems like the process involves an initial pre-treatment (or conditioning), then the stain, then a sealer or protective layer. Are there specific brands of each component that I should be looking for? The Home Depot here in Emeryville basically only carries Minwax, which has a so-so reputation on usenet. Ahh, forgot to mention that I want to stain it black.

The box is sanded and ready to go, just want to make sure I'm completely ready and informed before I jump into this. What're the differences between water and oil-based stains? As I asked above, are there specific brands that I should use? What other kinds of things should I know before I start this process?

Thanks in advance! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mueba.gif)
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
seanery
post Apr 10 2003, 03:34 PM
Post #2


waiting to rebuild whitey!
***************

Group: Retired Admin
Posts: 15,841
Joined: 7-January 03
From: Indy
Member No.: 100
Region Association: None



I'm not a huge woodworker but I've refinished a few items lately (Kitchen Table, 914 Wood Steering Wheel, and some small items).

I used minwax and it worked well.
Read the directions and follow them exactly and you shouldn't have any problems.

Good luck, show us pics before and after.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
tahoward
post Apr 10 2003, 03:34 PM
Post #3


Member
**

Group: Members
Posts: 87
Joined: 30-December 02
From: Middletown, OH
Member No.: 52



Oh my gosh, after reading thousands of posts on this board and not actually being able to help anyone... finally something I know a little about!!!! Minwax is really o.k., especially for a project like yours. If you're using a soft wood, like pine you should use Minwax Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner. This helps the wood absorb the stain more evenly, not perfect, but not real blotchy. If using a hard wood such as oak the pre stain is not necessary. I'm not sure the effect you're after, but my guess is that you want to see some of the wood grain since you're not simply painting. Too accomplish this and add a little more depth to the wood wipe one side of your project with stain and then immediately wipe it off. This allows you to put multiple layers of stain to get the desired color. If you simply paint it on, let it sit a few minutes and then wipe it off you are kinda stuck with the results unless you want to sand it off and start over. It also helps to use a scrap piece of wood to practice with in order to get the perfect look. Good luck! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/clap56.gif)
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
tahoward
post Apr 10 2003, 03:43 PM
Post #4


Member
**

Group: Members
Posts: 87
Joined: 30-December 02
From: Middletown, OH
Member No.: 52



I knew I'd forget something!!!! After staining you need to seal your project with the Minwax Polycrilic for protection. The satin will give you less shine than the glossy, which will give you more of a glassy look. A couple coats with a light sanding in between should do it. Also remember to wipe all dust off your project between coats, as it will show up big when finished. Hope it looks great. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Mockmaw
post Apr 10 2003, 04:16 PM
Post #5


Member
**

Group: Members
Posts: 163
Joined: 18-March 03
From: Berkeley/San Diego, CA
Member No.: 438



Great, thanks for the help so far! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif) Couple more questions:

Is it ever a bad idea to do the pre-stain conditioner (even if it's a harder wood?)

What 'grade' of sandpaper are you referring to when you talk about light sanding between coats? (I believe the minwax cans mention using 220.)

Lastly, let me see if I've got this right as far as the actual color stain goes: The idea is to put on a thin coat at a time (by applying, then immediately wiping) so that you can layer the coats to match the exact desired color?
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
r_towle
post Apr 10 2003, 05:08 PM
Post #6


Custom Member
***************

Group: Members
Posts: 24,498
Joined: 9-January 03
From: Taxachusetts
Member No.: 124
Region Association: North East States



If you are using Oak, you could do an age old treatment that looks a whole lot better than Stain.

Amonia.

Try putting a small piece of Oak in a plastic bag next to a small dish with Amonia in it.
The Vapors will turn the Oak a nice dark black,,,,test the time that you leave it in, the longer you leave it in the bag, the darker it gets.

This is an old Craftsman period finish/Mission furniture finish.

After it has aired out, use polyurethane to seal it.

Rich
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
tahoward
post Apr 10 2003, 07:09 PM
Post #7


Member
**

Group: Members
Posts: 87
Joined: 30-December 02
From: Middletown, OH
Member No.: 52



Using a conditioner on a hard wood probably won't hurt, but I'm not sure you could tell the difference either. I usually use steel wool instead of sandpaper. Check at HD, I think the grade is marked 0000, but the packages can tell you which is best. Right, thin coats are best, but practice on scrap...after all its for a 914!!!!!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mueba.gif)
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Bleyseng
post Apr 10 2003, 07:16 PM
Post #8


Aircooled Baby!
**********

Group: Members
Posts: 13,034
Joined: 27-December 02
From: Seattle, Washington (for now)
Member No.: 24
Region Association: Pacific Northwest



I have to agree that the use of steelwool 0000 between coats is the way to go. Use a tack rag afterwards as the steelwool leaves little tiny slivers in the finish/wood.
Geoff (IMG:style_emoticons/default/boldblue.gif)
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
seanery
post Apr 10 2003, 09:08 PM
Post #9


waiting to rebuild whitey!
***************

Group: Retired Admin
Posts: 15,841
Joined: 7-January 03
From: Indy
Member No.: 100
Region Association: None



I've used a 2000 grit wet/dry sandpaper in between with good results. (it won't kill big blobs, but smooths out everything else)
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Mockmaw
post Apr 10 2003, 09:24 PM
Post #10


Member
**

Group: Members
Posts: 163
Joined: 18-March 03
From: Berkeley/San Diego, CA
Member No.: 438



I was going to say, 220 seemed a little rough to me. I think I'll go with the steelwool.

I have no D-cam, but I'll see what I can do about taking pictures throughout the process.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Zeke
post Apr 11 2003, 09:39 AM
Post #11


Never left, but not right....
**

Group: Members
Posts: 381
Joined: 26-January 03
From: Long Beach CA
Member No.: 197
Region Association: None



Depending on the wood and the cut of the wood, stain will behave differently. On plywood made of fir for instance you will see the soft grain and the hard grain which is actually the membrane between the anular rings in the tree. Plywood is assembled with peeled layers from the log which are and look the same as flat sawn wood. This is opposed to vertical grain where you are looking at the anular rings from the side instead of the front.

Well, on to the point. The hard grain does not absorb stain very well and always turns out about the color of peanut butter no matter what color you are using. That's why you use prestain conditioner, to inhibit the soft grain from absorbing the stain as much, to even it out. so most of the stain now sits on the surface. You need to "play" with it to acheive the desired result. Don't sand or steel wool the stain coat, go directly to the first finish coat. Yoou don't want to sand thru the stain exposing the raw wood. Black is tough on plywood. I didn't see anywhere what kind of wood we are talking aabout.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post

Reply to this topicStart new topic
1 User(s) are reading this topic (1 Guests and 0 Anonymous Users)
0 Members:

 



- Lo-Fi Version Time is now: 28th March 2024 - 07:14 AM