broken rear suspension mount Options

[stugray]

So I dropped the motor and what do I see?:

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i366.photobucket.com-10819-1290372313.1.jpg)

Can I just re-weld this, or do I need to remove the whole piece and put in a new one?

I suppose I should do both sides while I am at it?

Any suggestions?

Stu

[TravisNeff]

I wouldn't weld it back up, replace it. Trouble is that is your driver's side which I am not sure if there are replacements available new (so you may need ot have someone cut one out of a parts car for you)

[Andyrew]

New Piece, Do Both..

[Eric_Shea]

Check CFR for a repair piece I believe. Search is your friend (but not very friendly). There's a few threads on this.

Good luck. Lucky you found it before it snapped off.

[brant]

Stu,

its common on track cars
there is a 914 guru in grand junction that can sell you a fab kit to brace this (or Chris sells really good stuff too!)

make sure you get a 4 wheel alignment after putting in a new console to verify its still within adjustable range

I've ripped my passenger side out 2x before I learned about the brace kit...
I ripped a brand new one out within 1 year. You need the bracing with race tires. I've not seen a driver side rip before.

You can buy a replacement console (at least you used to be able to buy them) very available.

brant

[stugray]

OK replace then.

I have a plasma cutter & MIG welder.
Is the piece removed by drilling out spot welds, chiseling, or cut (sawzall/plasma)?

Brant, Is this the same piece as I see here (obviously this is passenger side):

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/post-2-1099419579.jpg)

If so, it looks different.... what did you change other than the extra support (that I might as well do while I'm in there with a welder ;-)


Also, anyone have an link for the replacement parts?

Who is Chris?, how do I contact this person in Grand Junction?
Stu

[brant]

That picture is a fab mount, but with the -4cylinder motor mount attatchments removed (6cylinder cars attatch the motor at the firewall instead of sides)

the 6 is a wider motor and the extra brace has to be more outward and straight front to back

-4cylinder motor will allow a brace with some angle as the motor size is different.

you need to leave your -4cylinder motor mount bar attatchment points. So one more thing to work around when you replace the console.


Chris is:
chris foley racing
or tangerine racing

Grand junction is AJRS
they don't have a web site
there is an ajrs in california that is different and probably has a web site. AJRS in grand junction is a one man guru. No parts sales, no websites. A race shop that specializes in porsche and 914s

[Eric_Shea]

Brant has a brace similar to this one:

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net-1110-1290381261.1.jpg)

Chris has those too.

CFR is here:

http://www.tangerineracing.com/

[dr914@autoatlanta.com]

The broken suspension console was such a common problem that the old Perfect Panels began making them almost the day after the cars rolled off the assembly line. Most of it was because owners were unaware of the acid leaking battery and therefore did nothing about it until one day when the bottom of the tire was leaning out. We back then repaired many that insurance companies would actually cover the costs!!!!!! W\Years later we bought the company when the owner died so now make them and STILL sell many.. We also install them so if you need some advice, do not hesitate to call or e mail Sean in our service department.

So I dropped the motor and what do I see?:

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i366.photobucket.com-10819-1290372313.1.jpg)

Can I just re-weld this, or do I need to remove the whole piece and put in a new one?

I suppose I should do both sides while I am at it?

Any suggestions?

Stu

[pktzygt]

I'm in the middle of mine. It's time consuming to cut it out carefully. But I'm jealous because I don't have a plasma cutter. I'm doing a new console from George and a reinforcement from Chris.

[stugray]

Ok, I'm game.

Credit card in hand....

I dont see these parts on the CFR website or the AA catalog.

First person to actually give me a link will probably have an order. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/chowtime.gif)

My brother (welder-extraordinaire ;-) will be spending time here this weekend, and I would weld them in this week if I can get the parts before thursday.

Powcon spray MIG and plasma cutter waiting at the ready (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif)

Stu

[brant]

[url=http://www.tangerineracing.com/chassis.htm#Rear Pickup Points Reinforcing Kit]brace[/url] You need a spot weld removing drill bit
about 3 extra replacement tips
and about 6 hours of time to drill them and remove everything cleanly
the plasma cutter is probably too agressive of a tool

here are reinforcements
restoration design should have the console..


brace kit

[stugray]

So if I get the "Rear Pickup Points Reinforcing Kit"

AND the "Inner Console Reinforcements", I can fix this and still stay legal?

Stu

[mepstein]

I would think you should replace the console and not just weld metal over the failed part. They tend to rust from the inside out (like everything else on our cars) That's why they can look good right up to the day they fail. I bought one for the passenger side from resto design last summer. Scotty B should be doing the install soon. Mark

[SirAndy]

I would think you should replace the console and not just weld metal over the failed part.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

Call RD and ask them if they have the drivers side suspension console.
http://www.restoration-design.com/


If not, i would get one from someone's west coast parts car ... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)

[brant]

So if I get the "Rear Pickup Points Reinforcing Kit"

AND the "Inner Console Reinforcements", I can fix this and still stay legal?

Stu

shouldn't be a problem
the older car rules (pre-73) say braces that bolt in are legal.
I haven't read the 1981 rules cover to cover... but the same should be fine
I have a turnbuckle style in mine and its "bolt in"

I have a turnbuckle (bolt in) in my 4cylinder car also...
I always remove them when pulling the motor to clear the tinwork.
brant

[dr914@autoatlanta.com]

http://www.autoatlanta.com/detail.php?Part...ial_number=7502

Ok, I'm game.

Credit card in hand....

I dont see these parts on the CFR website or the AA catalog.

First person to actually give me a link will probably have an order. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/chowtime.gif)

My brother (welder-extraordinaire ;-) will be spending time here this weekend, and I would weld them in this week if I can get the parts before thursday.

Powcon spray MIG and plasma cutter waiting at the ready (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif)

Stu

[stugray]

Thanks for the link - $211 ea. - OUCH!.

How about the drivers side?
For that much, I'll probably replace the driver's side then just strengthen both sides.

Stu

[Phoenix-MN]

Just a heads up on prevenative maintenance. There are many stamped drains located throughout the body sheetmetal. Be sure the one circled in red is clear or the the mount will rust from the inside out

[ChrisFoley]

Thanks for the link - $211 ea. - OUCH!.

IMO its a very fair price for that piece.
There is no such part for the left side though.
I've repaired these before, probably even posted pics here.
Replacement is a sizable project. My recommendation is to carefully dig into what you have - to see if the heavy corrosion (on the inside) can be cut out and replaced without removing the entire console from the chassis.
After you fix the rot, my inner console reinforcing pieces and heim rod braces will ensure it never happens again.

Inner Console Reinforcements

Rear Pickup Points Bracing