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> tool recommendations
timofly
post Dec 26 2010, 09:17 AM
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Call me crazy, but now that my first 914 is pretty much done, I am contemplating doing another one, maybe a six. With retirement looming, I want to (have to) do more of the work myself. Two questions to the group about tools:

1. what kind of impact wrench would you recommend, and
2. what kind of welder would you recommend?

I did some gas welding 30 years ago, and need to relearn a lot, but before buying anything I want to hear what others have used and liked.

How about it? Good, bad and ugly experiences?
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scotty b
post Dec 26 2010, 09:31 AM
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rust free you say ?
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You can find used Blue Point impacts pretty cheap and IMHO they are just as good as the Strap-On ones. And much better than a Crapsman or anything else. Second chopice would be a NEW Ingersoll

Welder = Miller 140 all the way. Already set up for gas. Get a spool of .025 wire and go at it. I have done everythign form sheet metal up to 1/4 in a single pass with this machine. There is NO reason for a home hobbyist to buy anything larger
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ScottD914
post Dec 26 2010, 09:35 AM
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Sounds like a great goal and project, one I'd like to take on some day.
I'm just finishing up a '74 914/4 that had tons of rust. The first tool I bought (the
day after I bought the car) was a Millermatic 180 mig welder. Very versatile and
easy to use. Took a bit-o-practice, but it all came back from 30 years ago.
Best of luck!
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rmital
post Dec 26 2010, 10:25 AM
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QUOTE(timofly @ Dec 26 2010, 10:17 AM) *

Call me crazy, but now that my first 914 is pretty much done....

did you solve your alignment problem...or the car pulling in one direction??
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rfuerst911sc
post Dec 26 2010, 10:39 AM
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In my opinion the impact wrench is only as good as the compressor driving it. You can buy the best impact wrench but if you're driving it with a pancake oiless POS you will not get the results you want. I have an old B&D 1/2 impact that is plenty powerful when driven with my two stage compressor. Look around on Craigslist for your area there are LOTS of tools being sold due to the economy. Nothing wrong with buying used and saving $$$$. The mig welder you really can't go wrong with Miller, Hobart, Century or Lincoln they all make good 110 volt welders. Buying used can save you money here also but make sure it works. Buying a brand you can have serviced locally is a plus just in case you have to. And buy a mig not just a wire feed welder. You know with the gas setup already with it and a bottle of gas if possible. And building a six is a great idea, I recently completed a 3 year build of my GT clone with a 3.0. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
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timofly
post Dec 26 2010, 11:35 AM
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QUOTE(rmital @ Dec 26 2010, 11:25 AM) *

QUOTE(timofly @ Dec 26 2010, 10:17 AM) *

Call me crazy, but now that my first 914 is pretty much done....

did you solve your alignment problem...or the car pulling in one direction??

Ray,

Sure did, pretty simple matter of adjusting the front torsion bars. Also fixed the idle problem, just in time for the winter snow to set in and TGP is now relegated to the barn for the duration.

Tim

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underthetire
post Dec 26 2010, 01:42 PM
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I agree with the good ir guns. Not the home depot ones for thirty bucks. If you have enough money, you cant beat miller, and the 140 as suggested kicks ass. If you can't swing the miller bill, then a holbart handler then Lincoln weld pack. Don't do a harbor freight one, I have one I needed for an emergency, it works but not well.
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draganc
post Dec 28 2010, 08:21 PM
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I have a Hobart Handler 125 with a gas conversion and it works very well. Don't waste your time using a flux core welder/wire if you don't weld outside - it's a major PIA. In addtion, I have a medium size bottle.
Have fun,
Dragan
PS: Hobart is made in the USA and has a very good warranty (5/3/1 years).
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WFG
post Dec 28 2010, 08:32 PM
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IR guns are not that good any more repair parts are hard to get made in china now
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JoeSharp
post Dec 28 2010, 11:09 PM
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Hey Tim, I have a bunch of impact drivers but I don't use them. I take every thing apart by hand and reassemble them the same way. I use a torque wrench almost everything during reassembly. I want to know that what was wrong and that it is all correct when I reassemble it.
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ArtechnikA
post Dec 29 2010, 04:46 AM
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QUOTE(Joe Sharp @ Dec 29 2010, 12:09 AM) *

Hey Tim, I have a bunch of impact drivers but I don't use them. I take every thing apart by hand and reassemble them the same way. I use a torque wrench almost everything during reassembly. I want to know that what was wrong and that it is all correct when I reassemble it.

If we're talking about actual restoration/assembly/fabrication, I agree. Mostly. Here in the Land Of Salted Roads I've had to use my impact wrenches to loosen fasteners that "shouldn't" have needed it. Nowadays when I do anything with the Titan, I buy all new hardware because even if it's not damaged in the removal, I can't bear to reuse rusty cr&p...

Where they really shine is the semi-annual tire swap. Subie has 5-lug wheels, Titan has 6-lug. 1/2" impact gets them _off_painlessly. (They are re-installed by hand, individually, and torqued.) Been a long time since I autocrossed actively but doing 3 swaps a day (street / race / street ) for two days gets old come Sunday night. Wouldn't be a problem now...

Probably the only place on a Porsche where the impact wrench is the tool of choice is the rear stub axle nuts - and for removal only, of course.

My 1/2" impact is an ancient Rockwell I bought in 1980 and it is finally showing its age. I have been eyeing the titanium-cased extended-shank IR. There is no doubt the Snap-On stuff is a great value for the guys who use them all day long and make a living at it, but for occasional use I think you're paying for durability that you won't actually utilise.

Impact tools do like their air, but nothing uses air like rotary tools. My compressor recovers between wheels on lugnut removal, but it's gasping after just a couple of minutes with a die grinder. Must go bigger - again...
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