six conversion engine compartment heater hose, size? engine tin hole size? coupler in tin? Options

[jim912928]

I am putting heat in my six conversion. I know where I'm placing my fan, but what I don't know is what size and location should I cut the holes in the engine tin? Did the factory or the 911 setups use a coupler to connect the hose from topside of the tin to underneath? What have others done? Pics of your setups?

Engine: 3.2l, have the later 914 blower motor connector that branches at the fan into two outlets, heat exchangers are GHL SS, using my 914-4 flapper boxes

[dr914@autoatlanta.com]

I would say that with the 911 impeller fan you would not need an extra heater blower motor.

I am putting heat in my six conversion. I know where I'm placing my fan, but what I don't know is what size and location should I cut the holes in the engine tin? Did the factory or the 911 setups use a coupler to connect the hose from topside of the tin to underneath? What have others done? Pics of your setups?

Engine: 3.2l, have the later 914 blower motor connector that branches at the fan into two outlets, heat exchangers are GHL SS, using my 914-4 flapper boxes

[Steve]

I'm running a 3.2 with factory heat exchangers. The hoses run straight through the tin. The goofy part is finding the right side tin that connects to the fan shroud but can also clear the distributor. The 3.2 has a bigger distributor than the earlier sixes. The driver side tin off the shroud is easily sourced from any early 911. I am also using the 914-4 heater valves on my heat exchangers.

[Steve]

Here's the other side.

[Steve]

I would say that with the 911 impeller fan you would not need an extra heater blower motor.

I am putting heat in my six conversion. I know where I'm placing my fan, but what I don't know is what size and location should I cut the holes in the engine tin? Did the factory or the 911 setups use a coupler to connect the hose from topside of the tin to underneath? What have others done? Pics of your setups?

Engine: 3.2l, have the later 914 blower motor connector that branches at the fan into two outlets, heat exchangers are GHL SS, using my 914-4 flapper boxes

I also agree. The stock six fan, puts out plenty of air to toast you in a 914, but I am also running stock six heat exchangers, I have heard that the aftermarket heat exchangers suck for hot hair, but that limitation is due to the heat exchanger design not the air flow.

[shoguneagle]

Jim,

I believe the 911 used a duct from the fan located on engine (for 914 purposes, there is a engine lid clearance problem) and ducted to the back side of the heat exchangers through manifold or ducts (metal) attached to the heat exchangers. The heated air then was picked up at the flywheel end of the 911 engine where it was split and divided to each side. Someone please correct me if I am wrong.

You could probably go either way on whether to use 914 or 911 since I believe the heated end will already be setup for left and right sides.

I am trying to recall how the 914 works. I believe the squirrel cage fan is located in the left front area of the engine bay where it divides the airflow going to the left heat exchanger and the right heat exchanger separately. At the front of the Sixer heat exchangers the heated ari is divided by each heat exchanger for the left and the right.
Again, correct me if I am wrong. Trying to recall from memory.

Where to put the holes depends on which configuration you ultimately end up using.

I am facing the same problem of where to put the holes, but again I am not using heat exchangers. I am using oil as the heating source with the built in addition of being able to cool oil during the hot months by the same fan system.

I am using both the 911 3.2 setup with one outlet to the single source air/oil heat exchanger. The air is heated by the hot oil and goes forward to the 914 fan where it is diverted to the left and right side. During the car rewiring, I have made separate switches for each fan which provides me with the ability to turn both or either fan on without closing the butterfly valves. Theoretically,k I should have some oil cooling and heating from the same system. i went this route because I do not like exhaust heating type systems. Other way is put an electric heating defrost system in. just my preference; you are all right using the stainless steel exhaust/heating system.

Where to put the holes? Depends on which system you are going to use and you probably can get by with only one fan. (I just like the volume for possible cooling on hot days).

911 use existing system and put it into 914 fan which will divert the air supply to the left and right heat exchanger. The holes will have to be made as the system dictates and how it is configured. Make the two holes in the sheet metal where they will reach each heat exchanger; heat exchanger to the butterfly valves should/could be basically the 914 setup.

Hope this info helps but remember how you build/configure the heating system will determine where the holes go. BEWARE OF BRAKE LINES THAT GO UNDER THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT SHEET METAL.

Steve

[Steve]

I originally had this setup with the stock hose, because I couldn't find the right side tin off of the shroud. Otto's in Venice replaced this mess with the correct right side piece, but I have no clue where he sourced it from.

[jim912928]

I'm either going to keep the 3.2l blower (if I shave the top of the fan housing it will just clear the engine lide) or use the backdated fan shroud pieces. Either way i'm going to be cutting holes on both sides of the engine tin like the factory did. Does anybody have measurements on where the holes go as the factory did them and what size they are?

Also, if I backdate I've been told that the driver side is a direct bolt on but the driver side on a 3.2+ has to be modified or find a turbo piece to fit around the distributer?

[Steve]

Sorry Jim, i am using factory 914-6 sheet metal and the holes were already there in the side pieces, however the hole is the exact same size as the 914-4 heater hoses, its just figuring out where to cut the holes in the side pieces. It would be hard to get accurate measurements on my car since there is so much crap in the way. Hopefully someone has a set that's not in the car that they can take measurements off of for you.

[mepstein]

I'm either going to keep the 3.2l blower (if I shave the top of the fan housing it will just clear the engine lide) or use the backdated fan shroud pieces. Either way i'm going to be cutting holes on both sides of the engine tin like the factory did. Does anybody have measurements on where the holes go as the factory did them and what size they are?

Also, if I backdate I've been told that the driver side is a direct bolt on but the driver side on a 3.2+ has to be modified or find a turbo piece to fit around the distributer?

I have some stock 6 side pieces. I'll take some pics and measure. I also bought the backdated heater ducts. Guys on pelican suggest using a hammer on the metal duct to make clearance around the distributor if you need it.

not my engine in pics

[jim912928]

excellent pics! And thanks in advance for taking measurements...Jim

[mepstein]

pic

[mepstein]

hole is 2 5/8. I'm guessing hose is about 2 1/2?

[mepstein]

heater backdate tin. paid $110 on pelican classified. They also sell repro pieces.

[moparrob]

Jim,

I am deleting the heaters on my '79 3.0 engine conversion, so I have an extra set of the original sheet metal pieces pictured in the post above.

I will need to replace them with block off plates, which I have found and are going to cost me $125.00. plus shipping.

I'll sell you my original pieces for $110.00 shipped to you if you are interested. They are in very good condition.

Let me know.
Rob

robrose426@att.net

[mepstein]

heater backdate tin. paid $110 on pelican classified. They also sell repro pieces.

I did a trial fit on the engine. Piece on the left needs some clearancing around the alternator. Piece on the right needs some material ground off on the flange on the elbow to clearance some small fitting on case near fan.