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> What went wrong, fire
tradisrad
post Feb 5 2011, 11:59 AM
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zach, you are probably right about not using the liquid tape.
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underthetire
post Feb 5 2011, 12:38 PM
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I see some serious melting on a couple brown wires there as well. Go through everything you did, too long of a screw somewhere, bending a wire that broke insulation, etc. . Did the bake light piece break while moving stuff around, then short out.. Lots of possibilities there.
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PeeGreen 914
post Feb 5 2011, 01:49 PM
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Sorry to hear this all happened after upgrading your panel. This is one of the joys of working with 40 year old wires (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

Hopefully you will get this sorted out and make it (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) all better
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SirAndy
post Feb 5 2011, 02:20 PM
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QUOTE(ppetion @ Feb 4 2011, 09:06 PM) *
the wire shown on picture # 2 was attached to the pointing arrow on pic # 1.

Aha!

That is in fact stock and only found on early cars. The block is a insulator ...
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)
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914itis
post Feb 5 2011, 03:15 PM
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QUOTE(underthetire @ Feb 5 2011, 01:38 PM) *

I see some serious melting on a couple brown wires there as well. Go through everything you did, too long of a screw somewhere, bending a wire that broke insulation, etc. . Did the bake light piece break while moving stuff around, then short out.. Lots of possibilities there.


I am almost sure that a Long screw caused it.
the rest of the harness don't look too bad.I went and got a 4 gauge wire to replace the urned one and I wil I have two othe short wire thr are damadge but they are easy to repair. For safety I got myself a 60 amp fuse that I will put right by the battery. I have all the parts and planing to work on it tomorrow.

You mentioned the brake switch box. Is there an other one other thn the one by the pedal?l
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Joe Owensby
post Feb 6 2011, 11:03 AM
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I agree with Zach's recommendation to check everything out- or else you could do it again, even with a 60 amp fuse. You can check each circuit for an unwanted ground by using an ohmmeter or a simple continuity check light. Do this before you hook the individual wires up, and you can isolate any problems before letting more smoke out. JoeO
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realred914
post Feb 6 2011, 11:23 AM
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the addition of a fusable link at the battery would likely have prevented this fire and damage. think about a fuseable link for next time.
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914itis
post Feb 6 2011, 07:15 PM
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Update! the batery wire is fried all the way to the battery. I spent 6 Hours removing the wire and inspecting every single wire that was on that batch, There was some other sligtly damadge wire that would probably cause an issue if grounded. I did the repair from the battery to the fuse box. I used a distribution box mounted under the dash nest to the fuse box. The battery wire coming in and the other 3 wires that was attached to the original wire coming out. I also added the 60 amp fuse box by the battery.. There are two other positive battery wire going to the relay box by the driver's side of the engine, I used a one 30 amps fuses for eacch.

I also confirmed that it was a long screw that that I used to crew the new fuse panel that touched the wire on the isolator... DON'T LET THIS HAPPEN TO YOU!

Thanks all for all your concerns and help as always..

Paul


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914itis
post Feb 7 2011, 10:34 PM
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QUOTE(ppetion @ Feb 6 2011, 08:15 PM) *

Update! the batery wire is fried all the way to the battery. I spent 6 Hours removing the wire and inspecting every single wire that was on that batch, There was some other sligtly damadge wire that would probably cause an issue if grounded. I did the repair from the battery to the fuse box. I used a distribution box mounted under the dash nest to the fuse box. The battery wire coming in and the other 3 wires that was attached to the original wire coming out. I also added the 60 amp fuse box by the battery.. There are two other positive battery wire going to the relay box by the driver's side of the engine, I used a one 30 amps fuses for eacch.

I also confirmed that it was a long screw that that I used to crew the new fuse panel that touched the wire on the isolator... DON'T LET THIS HAPPEN TO YOU!

Thanks all for all your concerns and help as always..

Paul


(IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)

Success!!
I replaced all the damadged wires, added the fuses and the distribution box, tested all lights and gauges, everything works. the car started fine..



Thanks to all of you for your help and concers.
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913B
post Feb 7 2011, 10:50 PM
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ppetion, glad to see your car is fixed.

Members, 1 quick question, what the heck is a "bake lite" ??? Is that another way of saying fusible link ? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/unsure.gif)
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montoya 73 2.0
post Feb 7 2011, 11:00 PM
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IIRC bake-lite is that plastic like material that alot of electrical components are made of. Again, IIRC wall sockets and light switches used to be (or possibly still are) made of Bake-lite.


I could be wrong?
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914itis
post Feb 7 2011, 11:15 PM
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QUOTE(porsche913b_sp @ Feb 7 2011, 11:50 PM) *

ppetion, glad to see your car is fixed.

Members, 1 quick question, what the heck is a "bake lite" ??? Is that another way of saying fusible link ? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/unsure.gif)
its not a fuesable link, its a small hard platoc peice they use wnd attching the positive wires togetter. it makes it possible to mount the wire junction to the chasis without grounding it.. its more like junction point.
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Dave_Darling
post Feb 8 2011, 12:00 AM
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Bakelite was one of the earlier plastics. It was invented by a guy named Bakeland.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bakelite

--DD
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hcdmueller
post Feb 8 2011, 12:01 AM
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"bakelite" is a hard material that can be formed into all sorts of complex shapes. It apparently was the first synthetic plastic but uses bio components. It was used in fuze components for munitions and is not electrically conductive. It has a really long service life. Russians have been using it for what seems like forever.
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r3dplanet
post Feb 8 2011, 12:07 AM
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Ah, bakelite!

Bakelite is really the first popular plastic developed over a hundred years ago by a Belgian chemist by the name of Baekeland. It's actually pretty easy and cheap to develop the ingredients, but its a bit of a chore for mass production in today's terms. Still, it was (and is) used widely for is thermal and electrical insulating qualities, its particular sheen, and its light weight. It has the look and feel of porcelain but its much lighter. It reached the height of its popularity in the 1940s-1950s, and many items like radios and jewelry are still highly collectible. It's still widely used today although other easier-to-manufacture plastics have mostly replaced it for consumer goods. It's mostly used for industrial purposes. The downside to Bakelite is that its brittle, and sometimes you want that and sometimes you don't. The 914 has numerous small Bakelite bits if you look around.

Bakelite!
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larss
post Feb 8 2011, 12:21 AM
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I was the one introducing the word "bakelite" in this tread (sorry did not find a better word in english...).
However, Im not 100% sure that this piece is real bakelite isn't it more like thick circuit board material with fibres in it?
To me real bakelite is wery similar to the distributor cap material.

/Lars S
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914itis
post Feb 8 2011, 12:27 AM
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QUOTE(larss @ Feb 8 2011, 01:21 AM) *

I was the one introducing the word "bakelite" in this tread (sorry did not find a better word in english...).
However, Im not 100% sure that this piece is real bakelite isn't it more like thick circuit board material with fibres in it?
To me real bakelite is wery similar to the distributor cap material.

/Lars S

I think that it is exatly the same material as the distributor cap.
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VaccaRabite
post Feb 8 2011, 09:06 AM
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Dude! You work fast!
Doing all that wiring would have taken me at least a month, if not all winter. Congrats on getting it put back together so fast.

Zach
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914itis
post Feb 8 2011, 09:18 AM
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QUOTE(Vacca Rabite @ Feb 8 2011, 10:06 AM) *

Dude! You work fast!
Doing all that wiring would have taken me at least a month, if not all winter. Congrats on getting it put back together so fast.

Zach


Thanks, took me about 8 hours, I am pretty good with electrical.
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