Cylinder Head Temp Gauge, 20 min. Cam Break-In Options

[d7n7master]

Hi All,
Assuming the rebuilt engine starts & RUNS for the 20 min. required to break-in the cam & lifters... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif) what cyl. head temp should I expect to see???
I'll be watching for oil pressure/temp/leaks/UhhhOhhhzzz
And if it leaks or murphy shows up and I have to shut it off before the "magic" 20 min. mark: does that mean that the cam & lifters are now toast???
Are there any secrets as to "what" oil I use for first crank? I've always been a Castrol 20w50 kinda guy. So. Cal. driving. A friend recently suggested adding a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil into break-in oil. Stopped me cold. Hadn't heard of that in many years. My dad put that stuff in everything!!! Engines, gas tanks, lawn mowers, parts cleaner... but I always thought it was snake oil. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/unsure.gif)
Thanks, Gary

[SpecialK]

There are some serious 'Old School Motorheads' out here that swear by breaking in a new engine using Marvel Mystery Oil <_< . I actually put some in the gas tank and didn't notice a bit of difference, but then again that was on my Ford Ranger with 180,000+ miles. As for the other question about the cam break-in period, I hope this bumps it up the list so someone qualified can chime in.

[McMark]

What about hooking a big ass electric motor to the fan pulley and turning the motor (with no plugs) for a few hours? Would that break things in? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

[Gint]

What about hooking a big ass electric motor to the fan pulley and turning the motor (with no plugs) for a few hours? Would that break things in?

Sorta, I guess. I would think that it wouldn't create much heat. And wouldn't heat be a necessary component for break-in?

[dmenche914]

Break in of cam/lifters is usually done at fairly high rpm, like 2-or 3 K. I have been told to never let the motor idle during the brake in, else cam can go flat right away.

Use the starter, with plugs out to get the oil pressure up, before starting. Some builders remove the rockers during this oil pressure building run, to avoid any wear on the cam until they are ready to let it break in at the higher rpm.

Do a search on google for engine break in, specify VW, there is a ton of info on VW (aircooled) break in's that is applicable.

I see no benifit to an electric motor driving the engine. And you will need a big motor to get rpms up anywhere near what you need.

I once drove a Buick V6 with a 2 HP motor for some funky balance tests. This done with plugs out, I had to have a big gear reduction to just get it to turn over, and the max rpm I had was pretty low, not even Idle speed was achieved. The motor has a lot of friction to overcome.

It is helpful to have a second person as a watch, to look under car for any oil leaks during break in, so you can immediatly shut down if problems.

good luck

dave

[Mark Henry]

I don't have time to do the pull the rockers bit, on a T1 with full flow and a sump you have to prime the system.

Pre-fill the oil filter full of oil. I use a lighter weight for break in. Start her up and as soon as the oil light (or gauge) goes off zip it up to 3000+rpm and hold it there. Have someone work the throttle so that you can watch for leaks and bad noises. Run it at least 20 min. and don't stop for minor oil leaks. After cooling over-night do a valve adjustment.

I've only heard of Marvel Mystery Oil in the last couple of years, I don't think we can even get it Canada. I'm a real sceptic when in comes to additives.

I see no benefit to an electric motor driving the engine. And you will need a big motor to get rpms up anywhere near what you need.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

Unless you have a big ass motor kicking around I bet you can't even get it to spin. Not 3000rpm for sure.