 Floor Pans- Rust prevention and Tunnel treatement, advice needed |
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| IronHillRestorations |
 Mar 3 2011, 01:25 PM
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#21
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I. I. R. C.  Group: Members Posts: 6,719 Joined: 18-March 03 From: West TN Member No.: 439 Region Association: None 
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The water stops the acid. If you are going over it with another coating, you want to stop the acid, maaan.
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| sean_v8_914 |
May 12 2011, 07:29 AM
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#22
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Chingon 601 Group: Members Posts: 4,011 Joined: 1-February 05 From: San Diego Member No.: 3,541 |
rust thread bump...
...and zinc rich weld thru primer on panels that overlap that get welded together this thread should be flagged as teh rust treatment classic thread |
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| Gudhjem |
May 12 2011, 11:46 AM
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#23
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Member Group: Members Posts: 133 Joined: 29-March 07 From: Castro Valley, CA Member No.: 7,629 Region Association: Northern California |
Great info in this thread. I am staring to close up my longs, firewall bulkhead and some other cavities, so was reviewing all this info.
The rinse-with-water-and-let-dry part of the process scares me. I wouldn't have considered it, except that at least three guys in this thread with 100x more experience than me are doing it. Running a water hose through my longs (IMG:style_emoticons/default/unsure.gif). Guess I'll be doing that as well. For Scotty B., I thought I read that in your opinion rust encapsulators (not converters) are snakeoil, don't bother, but here you say that's how you finish off the process. Is that true just for cavities, where other options are limited? Or maybe what you are saying is that they are okay if you get rid off all the rust first, just don't use them to actually encapsulate rust? |
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| FourBlades |
May 12 2011, 01:21 PM
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#24
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From Wreck to Rockin Group: Members Posts: 2,054 Joined: 3-December 07 From: Brevard, FL Member No.: 8,414 Region Association: South East States
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I like to use a MAPP torch to carefully heat all the nooks, crannies, and especially seams after applying paint prep, metal ready, and water to dry these areas out. Leaving water sitting in your seams for a few days will ensure they will rust. John |
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| Chris Pincetich |
May 12 2011, 02:05 PM
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#25
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B-) Group: Members Posts: 2,082 Joined: 3-October 05 From: Point Reyes Station, CA Member No.: 4,907 Region Association: Northern California |
QUOTE(FourBlades @ May 12 2011, 12:21 PM)  heat all the nooks, crannies, and especially seams after applying paint prep, metal ready, and water to dry these areas out. YUP I have used a paint stripping heat gun to dry out the acid rinse water, to soften and remove the tar on the floorboards, and to help remove gunk and seam sealer from all nooks and crannies. Focused heat is your friend when drying out the prep liquids! I have been doing the interior rustoration piece-meal, but this Sunday I am planning a full-on attack with Wurth Metal Ready. It was not cheap, but has both the acid and zinc in it. Then, Wurth self-etch primer, then paint (then seam sealer?). |
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| IronHillRestorations |
May 13 2011, 07:45 AM
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#26
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I. I. R. C. Group: Members Posts: 6,719 Joined: 18-March 03 From: West TN Member No.: 439 Region Association: None
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A little flash oxidation will help some of the coatings adhere. I use the wands to blow the cavities dry with compressed air.
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