fan removal, tool Options

[914itis]

anyone know on the top of their head, what type and size tool i need to remove the fan on the 1.7?

[Sleepin]

The same tool as the CVs IIRC. 8mm VW CV tool. 12 point I believe.

[TheCabinetmaker]

The fan should be held on by three bolts. 13mm head. the hub is held on by one bolt. Could be 13mm or the 12point. I've seen both. The hub may or may not need a puller. there might be a black plastic nose cone over the hub bolt.

[SLITS]

The same tool as the CVs IIRC. 8mm VW CV tool. 12 point I believe.

You should have had HONDO answer .... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

Fasteners can be of any variety ... one is triple square as mentioned and the other can be a hex head or regular allen head ... depends on if the motor has been worked on.

[ChrisFoley]

We have the CV tool in stock.

[914itis]

I tried the tool that I used for the cv removal and that did not help. it was an 8 regular hex it seems to be too big. I am heading outr to get the 12 points as mentioned. thanks Chris, but yours is not gonna help me in NY right now. anything I should ask for other than 8mn 12 point hex?

[McMark]

The 12pt tool is also known as a triple-square and as a 'serrated' bit. Those bolts are OE for an early fan.

[Jake Raby]

The bolts could have been replaced with 6mm allen as well.

[914itis]

Thanks guys, I got the tool 8mn 12 points and the succer is out. now my next question is, what do I need to remoce the hub? any of you used some methos without a puller? if not what kind of puller?

the oil seems to come out of the front as shown in the picture. anyone know who carries that seal? there is also a coover on the 2nd picture. from my view it looks like I will need a gasket, what do you call that?

[Cupomeat]

The arrow is pointing to the oil pump/case seal.

I'd think it was more likely your front crank seal than the oil pump.

I'd clean everything now (before you pull the impeller hub) then replace the front seal and go from there.

Pulling the oil pump without just cause (unless you plan to go further) is lots of work.

Good luck!

[914itis]

The arrow is pointing to the oil pump/case seal.

I'd think it was more likely your front crank seal than the oil pump.

I'd clean everything now (before you pull the impeller hub) then replace the front seal and go from there.

Pulling the oil pump without just cause (unless you plan to go further) is lots of work.

Good luck!

Hey Eric. Am I understanding this wrong? There are two pics the top one is the one with the leak. The piece that the impeller was attached to.isn't that the crankc seal?

[Cupomeat]

Yes, my Bad, the first picture arrow is pointing to the front main seal and the bottom one, the oil pump.

Just replace the front main seal as that is likely the culprit.

I am red/green color blind and red arrows on pictures don't stand out to me as most people. I only saw the second one at first.

Humblest apologies... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

When you pull the impeller hub, look to see how chewed up the surface is that rides on the front main seal. If it is grooved, take some light emory or garnet paper and smooth it out before reinstalling. Last time I looked, they were NLA so treat yours nicely.

I hope that helps, and not adds to the confusion, as I did before.

[Cupomeat]

As for how to pull the impeller hub, I used a 3 bolt puller and used bolts that actually mated with the impeller and crank bolts themsleves.

Sears sells it.

[914itis]

Thanks. For your help. And ni you did not ad to the confusion. It is appreciated.

[VaccaRabite]

when you pull the hub, use a puller. And expect the hub to shoot across the room when it finally pops. Its on there with a lot of force.

Zach

[914itis]

when you pull the hub, use a puller. And expect the hub to shoot across the room when it finally pops. Its on there with a lot of force.

Zach

thanks. I will be tryng that in a few minutes.

[McMark]

The factory method for removing the hub is to install a ~1/8" piece of flat steel, cut in a C shape, between the hub and the case. Then rethread the fan bolts and tighten them until they impact the steel C and keep tightening until it pops off. I made one awhile back and it's been a real time-saver.

[Dave_Darling]

Or, just put three thick pieces of metal behind the hub. Then screw in the fan bolts to pinch the metal between the bolt and the case, and tighten each bolt about a half-turn at a time. (You can use other bolts of the same size, of course.) That'll push the hub off. There's a Woodruff key behind it (a half-moon key) that will drop out and get lost almost instantly, so be prepared for that.

For the pieces of metal, the Cap'n recommends "church-key" bottle openers. I used fender washers, with the bolt end resting on the solid area of the washer rather than going through the hole. The point is to spread out the load so you don't damage the crankcase.

--DD

[914itis]

when you pull the hub, use a puller. And expect the hub to shoot across the room when it finally pops. Its on there with a lot of force.

Zach

you were right again, when it pops I was scared, thinking that I broke something..

[914itis]

Or, just put three thick pieces of metal behind the hub. Then screw in the fan bolts to pinch the metal between the bolt and the case, and tighten each bolt about a half-turn at a time. (You can use other bolts of the same size, of course.) That'll push the hub off. There's a Woodruff key behind it (a half-moon key) that will drop out and get lost almost instantly, so be prepared for that.

For the pieces of metal, the Cap'n recommends "church-key" bottle openers. I used fender washers, with the bolt end resting on the solid area of the washer rather than going through the hole. The point is to spread out the load so you don't damage the crankcase.

--DD

I read your post after i went and get a 45 bucks pulley, I didnt notice the half moon key you mentioned,,,,,,, is it always there on 1.7's or did i miss it. what happened if its missing? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)