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> SOS, I was driving about 25 at around 3K rpm and!!!!!&a
falconfp2001
post Apr 11 2011, 11:02 AM
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OK, I need help. I was driving relatively low speed when I hear what sounds like a gear grinding, it was really quick and then gone, and then I lose power. It accelerates but seems to be firing only on two cylinders.

WHAT JUST HAPPENED?

I am so bummed as i just got this car back running with the FI.

Any one have a super cheap Engine close that I can get to install this weekend?

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Andyrew
post Apr 11 2011, 11:13 AM
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Lost a spark plug?
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falconfp2001
post Apr 11 2011, 11:15 AM
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QUOTE(Andyrew @ Apr 11 2011, 10:13 AM) *

Lost a spark plug?


Really? I'll check.
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falconfp2001
post Apr 11 2011, 11:32 AM
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QUOTE(falconfp2001 @ Apr 11 2011, 10:15 AM) *

QUOTE(Andyrew @ Apr 11 2011, 10:13 AM) *

Lost a spark plug?


Really? I'll check.



the plugs look ok from the top, I tried to pull using my socket and It doesn't seem deep enough to grab. Funny how it worked on my other cars. I'll have to buy a socket and pull them this afternoon.
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falconfp2001
post Apr 11 2011, 12:01 PM
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I had this happen on another car but the plug looked like it exploded. Is that how you tell or could it look ok from the outside and get fried internally?
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TheCabinetmaker
post Apr 11 2011, 12:05 PM
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If you lost a plug you would know it. They're loud! Does it turn over with the key? Pull the distributor cap and watch the rotor while someone spins the engine. Remove coil wire when preforming test. If all is good, find which cylinder is not firing by removing plug wires one at a time with it running. You'll hear and feel the engine bog down with one wire removed. If it doesn't, thats your bad cylinder(s).
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euro911
post Apr 11 2011, 12:10 PM
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Might not be the plugs or spark wires, but pull the plugs to be sure. Check ALL your wiring though, especially the wiring plugs to the injectors ... I've had them come loose on my wife's 1.7 a couple of times (they've wiggled out because she's missing the rubber boots).

Also you can check and clean (if needed) the trigger points.


While you're in there, might want to check the following as well:

Valves adjusted properly?
Cap, rotor & plug wires OK?,
Dizzy secured?
Dwell angle? (if running points) .016" gap
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falconfp2001
post Apr 11 2011, 12:12 PM
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I did that and I can pull cylinder 1 n 2 with no change but 3 or 4 stop the engine.

I have one side not firing and I think it's worse than just a plug. Never heard of two plugs going at once.
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76-914
post Apr 11 2011, 01:02 PM
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trigger points?
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Andyrew
post Apr 11 2011, 01:12 PM
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I have seen a spark plug loose the diode in the middle.. But it doesnt sound like thats your problem.

Is there any current engine noise that is abnormal?

Could be something fuel related as well.
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Cap'n Krusty
post Apr 11 2011, 01:18 PM
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QUOTE(76-914 @ Apr 11 2011, 12:02 PM) *

trigger points?


Not likely. Each contact does one cylinder on each side.

The Cap'n
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falconfp2001
post Apr 11 2011, 03:12 PM
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QUOTE(Andyrew @ Apr 11 2011, 12:12 PM) *

I have seen a spark plug loose the diode in the middle.. But it doesnt sound like thats your problem.

Is there any current engine noise that is abnormal?

Could be something fuel related as well.


No abnormal sounds, only that it sounds like its only firing off 2 cylinders.

I lost cylinder 1 n 2 on the drivers side. hmm

No heavy clanking or anything else.
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zymurgist
post Apr 11 2011, 03:18 PM
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Might want to use a timing light to see if you're getting spark in the "bad" cylinders. If you verify that have spark, then your fuel injectors might not be firing.
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Andyrew
post Apr 11 2011, 04:26 PM
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Pull each spark plug while its running. See if pulling any result in the engine running different than the rest.. You should be able to determine if you are either missing spark or fuel in that particular cylinder.
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Dave_Darling
post Apr 11 2011, 04:38 PM
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The engine needs three things to run: Fuel, Air, and Spark. Check for each of those. For Air, use a compression test. For Spark, you can grab an extra spark plug and tape it so the outer electrode or the threaded part is touching a ground. Have someone crank the starter and look for sparks at the plug.

For fuel, you can be pretty certain you have it if you smell fuel at the tailpipe after cranking the starter for a while (say, with the above tests). But you can also pull the injectors on that one side (just one nut holds each one in) and stick them in jars. Have someone crank the starter (unplug the coil wires first!) while you look for the fuel spray. You want a spray, not a dribble.

If those check out, then the culprits are either when the spark happens (unlikely with just two cylinders), or how much fuel is going in (harder to figure out).

But a sudden loss of 2 cylinders is most likely either spark or fuel.

How's the distributor cap look? Is it on correctly?

--DD
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ConeDodger
post Apr 11 2011, 05:11 PM
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QUOTE(Dave_Darling @ Apr 11 2011, 02:38 PM) *

The engine needs three things to run: Fuel, Air, and Spark. Check for each of those. For Air, use a compression test. For Spark, you can grab an extra spark plug and tape it so the outer electrode or the threaded part is touching a ground. Have someone crank the starter and look for sparks at the plug.

For fuel, you can be pretty certain you have it if you smell fuel at the tailpipe after cranking the starter for a while (say, with the above tests). But you can also pull the injectors on that one side (just one nut holds each one in) and stick them in jars. Have someone crank the starter (unplug the coil wires first!) while you look for the fuel spray. You want a spray, not a dribble.

If those check out, then the culprits are either when the spark happens (unlikely with just two cylinders), or how much fuel is going in (harder to figure out).

But a sudden loss of 2 cylinders is most likely either spark or fuel.

How's the distributor cap look? Is it on correctly?

--DD


(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) If you have two dead cylinders and nothing is wrong with your plugs or wires, check inside the distributor cap. Watch the shaft turn. You might have big old wobble. But look at the cap first. Evidence of this will be found there.
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914 shifter
post Apr 11 2011, 07:30 PM
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a nasty backfire could blow out your MPS (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)
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euro911
post Apr 12 2011, 09:19 AM
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QUOTE(Cap'n Krusty @ Apr 11 2011, 12:18 PM) *
QUOTE(76-914 @ Apr 11 2011, 12:02 PM) *

trigger points?

Not likely. Each contact does one cylinder on each side.

The Cap'n

Just thought I'd add trigger points to the list in case all the other possible remedies produced negative results.

The ones on my wife's car had a build-up of grease on the contacts and needed to be cleaned up. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

If the engine's wiring harness is old and brittle, you could have broken conductors. Check for voltage at the injector plugs for the two offending cylinders (while cranking the engine). They should be pulsing voltages, so best too check with an analog voltmeter.

If no voltage readings are present, perform an end-to-end check of the wiring from the injector plugs to the connector on the ECU.
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Cap'n Krusty
post Apr 12 2011, 09:50 AM
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QUOTE(914 shifter @ Apr 11 2011, 06:30 PM) *

a nasty backfire could blow out your MPS (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)


Highly unlikely.

The Cap'n
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Rand
post Apr 12 2011, 10:08 AM
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QUOTE(Cap'n Krusty @ Apr 12 2011, 08:50 AM) *

QUOTE(914 shifter @ Apr 11 2011, 06:30 PM) *

a nasty backfire could blow out your MPS (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

Highly unlikely.
The Cap'n

And if the MPS was blown, it would make the car run rich (if Djet anyway), not knock out two cylinders.

I don't know enough about this, so just asking: Could something have happened to the valve train on that side?
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