Stock oil cooler questions?, Need advice on what to buy. Options

[mgphoto]

Hello and thanks for reading.
I need to replace the stock oil cooler in my 1.7, it's starting to leak. I've seen selling prices ranging from $50 to $300, I'm assuming that there are original VW parts, which may be in short supply and after market parts.
Which is best? What brands should I look for? How do I tell the difference between original and after market parts?
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks again,
Mike

[brant]

have you verified where it is leaking from?

if it is cracked you can replace it or repair it (tig)

but the most common place for them to leak is in the seals where it attatches to the motor. The correct technique is to take it off of the motor and pressure test it for leaks.

if the pressure test verifies it is actually leaking (not just the seals) then repair or replace.

more likely you just replace the seals (cheap) and reuse it

brant

[mepstein]

I have a used oem oil cooler in good condition, doesn't leak. $25 + shipping. Mark Mark@MarkEpstein.net

[Dave_Darling]

There are other popular oil leak spots that look like oil cooler leaks, too. The oil pressure sender is one.

--DD

[mgphoto]

have you verified where it is leaking from?

if it is cracked you can replace it or repair it (tig)

but the most common place for them to leak is in the seals where it attatches to the motor. The correct technique is to take it off of the motor and pressure test it for leaks.

if the pressure test verifies it is actually leaking (not just the seals) then repair or replace.

more likely you just replace the seals (cheap) and reuse it

brant

Hello Brant,
No not leaking at the seals, I've replaced those before with the engine in the car, wish it was that simple.
Mike

[mgphoto]

There are other popular oil leak spots that look like oil cooler leaks, too. The oil pressure sender is one.

--DD

Hello Dave,
It is leaking at the end furthest from the engine block.
Mike

[brant]

Mike,

shops will fabricate a fixture to bolt a cooler to an air inlet
then submerse in water and pressure up to test for leaks

I just had a 911 cooler leak repaired
a really good shop can do this
it depends if its more of an extranal fin or internal (impossible to get to)

Used is ok... but you ideally need to know the history of the motor it came from and then have it ultrasonically cleaned.
you definitely don't want to introduce shrapnel into your motor if the cooler came from a blown engine (you could then loose all of your bearings and loose your motor quickly)

[mepstein]

I have a used oem oil cooler in good condition, doesn't leak. $25 + shipping. Mark Mark@MarkEpstein.net

Mine came from a running engine that was put in storage for 20 years. Internals of engine still look great. No rust. Don't need the cooler for the 6 conversion. Mark

[brant]

I have a used oem oil cooler in good condition, doesn't leak. $25 + shipping. Mark Mark@MarkEpstein.net

Mine came from a running engine that was put in storage for 20 years. Internals of engine still look great. No rust. Don't need the cooler for the 6 conversion. Mark

that kind of history (and from a reputable source no less) makes the used cooler a good option

[mgphoto]

Thanks for the suggestions I do appreciate the input, but I am going to pull the motor and replace the heads, pistons and cylinders. I think it is cheap insurance to replace the oil cooler with a new one, just need to know what is best and what I should avoid.
Mike

[mgphoto]

Hello and thanks for reading.
I need to replace the stock oil cooler in my 1.7, it's starting to leak. I've seen selling prices ranging from $50 to $300, I'm assuming that there are original VW parts, which may be in short supply and after market parts.
Which is best? What brands should I look for? How do I tell the difference between original and after market parts?
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks again,
Mike

Anyone else with experience what to chime in here?
Mike

[McMark]

AFAIK, there is only one source for stock oil coolers, so true NOS parts aside, they're all the same. That being said, the ones I see are usually $150. So anything less than that would arouse my suspicion.

shops will fabricate a fixture to bolt a cooler to an air inlet
then submerse in water and pressure up to test for leaks

Brant, this is a great technique and I've done it without special fixtures. It takes two people, but you can set your air compressor to 25 psi or so, slip a bit of fuel hose on to a blow gun, then plug one hole on the cooler with your thumb and force the fuel hose against the other hole until it seals. Submerge underwater and have your 'assistant' press the blow gun trigger.

Make sure to tap the cooler on the bottom to dislodge the air bubbles that get trapped in the fins so you don't get 'false positives'.

[rick_cv]

I've used the one from CB performance. Its about $40. Make sure you have the mount that holds the end of the cooler and the seal between the cooler and the engine tin. If I remember correctly I needed to trim the flange on the end of the cooler with some snips so the mount would sit flush.