Never Been In Here Before, Inside My Speedometer/Odometer Options

[kconway]

I have an non-functioning odometer and figured one of the gears inside was broken. Following the Pelican DIY article I carefully opened it up expecting to find something broken. I don't see anything out of the ordinary but I've never been inside before.

With the trip reset cable inserted in the speedo port I spun it up with a drill. The speedo works just fine but the mile don't increment on the odometer. The trip reset works when turned except I can never get it to 0000. The "ones" column never turns to 0.

Anybody see anthing out of the ordinary or is this just a lost cause?

Kev

[kconway]

[patssle]

I have the same problem, everything looks perfect, but I do believe my gray wheel doesn't spin either. I think glue or something would fix it?

[Als914]

Nope. You will leave a trace of glue on the numbers tumblers and that will be trouble.

[patssle]

What's the fix then?

[tradisrad]

I tried to fix mine by crimping the gray gear onto the shaft and it worked for 50 miles; maybe I did not crimp it tight enough. The second time I used some loctite 4014 with a very fine needle and wicked a drop of glue between the gear and shaft. 3k miles later it is still working. I was very nervous about the glue and having it wick somewhere I did not want it. It worked for me.

[saigon71]

What's the fix then?

Run masking tape acrosss the numbers to hold them in place. Then gently remove the shaft until the gear is free. I took a pair of vice grips and squeezed on both sides of the gear hole a little at a time until it would hold on the shaft (cue the "that's what she said" or other such comment). Odometer worked well after this operation. I think this procedure is included in the Pelican article. Good luck!

[bugsy0]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) That pot-metal wheel is soft. You can squeeze its hub pretty hard, compressing it all around the shaft. I've got about 2k miles on my repair so far.

[kconway]

I followed the Pelican DIY and crimped the gray wheel and roughened up the shaft. All went back together and the odometer is now operational! Easy Peasy! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif)

[euro911]

Hey Kevin - I saw your post earlier this evening and got caught up with other things. I had to search for it, but found a post on NARP from back in 2007. Looks like you don't need it now (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

Curiosity got the best of me, Took a Silver Dot speedo apart ...

I ended up scribing some splines in the shaft then pressed the wheel back onto the shaft ...

[Elliot Cannon]

Hey Kevin - I saw your post earlier this evening and got caught up with other things. I had to search for it, but found a post on NARP from back in 2007. Looks like you don't need it now (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

Curiosity got the best of me, Took a Silver Dot speedo apart ...

I ended up scribing some splines in the shaft then pressed the wheel back onto the shaft ...

Yer up kinda late fer an old bastid aincha?

[johannes]

I had the same issue. Followed step by step instructions on Pelican. I only roughened up the shaft . Works perfectly now.

[euro911]

Yer up kinda late fer an old bastid aincha?

Yeah, but I'm still young enough to notice 5 (count them) spelling errors in your pesky little retort ...


(IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)

See ya @ G&R

[charliew]

You can also use a pair of side cutters and put some diagonal dents or small cuts in the shaft where it fits in the gray wheel and it will hold. It's like knurling te shaft. The gray wheel probably starts slipping because the torque needed to turn it all is increased from lack of lubrication in the mechanism. Lack of lubrication in old stuff causes most of the problems from door hinges to latches to wheel bearings to steering boxes or whatever. If it moves it needs lube.

[Als914]

You can also use a pair of side cutters and put some diagonal dents or small cuts in the shaft where it fits in the gray wheel and it will hold. It's like knurling te shaft. The gray wheel probably starts slipping because the torque needed to turn it all is increased from lack of lubrication in the mechanism. Lack of lubrication in old stuff causes most of the problems from door hinges to latches to wheel bearings to steering boxes or whatever. If it moves it needs lube.

This works best along with distorting the ID of the grey gear. To distort the gear ID I use a small center punch and place a punch on opposite sides of the ID then turn the gear over rotate it 90 deg. from the first two punch marks and make two more punch marks. You should now have four punch marks ( two on one side and two on the opposite side ) at 45 deg. from each other around the ID. Note that the gear ID is now distorted. With the material on the shaft distorted and the grey gear ID distorted you will find it to be a very tight reassembly. I use a very small finishing hammer to gently tap the shaft through the final grey gear. You should now have a long lasting odometer/trip odometer. Just remember to NOT reset the trip odometer while the car is in motion.

Al