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> How to disassemble a '76 Ignition Sw Cylinder?, PP Tech article doesn't cover it
maf914
post May 17 2004, 08:27 AM
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Kafermeister,

Thanks for the photos. I've replaced the plastic switch portion on my 76 twice, but not had to mess around with the key cylinder yet. I'll save your photos for that time.

Mike
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ss6
post May 17 2004, 09:08 AM
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Herr KaferMeister -

Thanks for those pix, nice job!!!. You should submit your pictures as an addendum to the PP Tech Article (I think at there is at least one there already).

Pic 8 pretty much explains why I'm having so much trouble. Looks like my casting may have been replaced already, the metal insert you show in pic 4 is missing, and so is the crucial hole you show in pic 8. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

My assembly has a kinda sorta slot in the casting diameter that holds the cylinder, right above the hole you showed. Kinda looks like yours does too, but you see it better when you're looking more in line with the key shaft.

Guess I'm going to have to make my own hole, the problem I'm trying to fix is the chrome collar around the key orifice is cracked, so it sits cockeyed in there, and interferes with the rotation of the key, not to mention the proper operation of the "deadbolt". Don't want the deadbolt deciding to kick in on the track...

BTW, AA's 914 Tech Tips 700 correctly described the process for the '75 / '76 lock cylinder removal (the missing hole on my casting notwithstanding).

Thanks for all the contributions - YOU GUYS ROCK!!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)
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kafermeister
post May 17 2004, 10:31 AM
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Thanks guys, I hope the pictures are useful.

ss6, FWIW, It seems like I've seen more than one version of the 113-905-851-A columns. I know for absolutly sure that a VW column will fit and work. Just as long as you're using an intermittant wiper switch.

Can't say for sure if the Porsche ignition lock will fit the VW column as it's been a few years since I've had to mess with that part of the car.

Rick
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TheCabinetmaker
post May 17 2004, 10:34 AM
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John, if ya don't mind the vw key, the vw dealerships sell the same lock for about 25 % of the Porsche part.
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tod914
post May 17 2004, 11:45 AM
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QUOTE
Herr KaferMeister -

Thanks for those pix, nice job!!!. You should submit your pictures as an addendum to the PP Tech Article


(IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

Excellent job! You'll save many of us quite a few headaches in the future. Thanks for taken the time to do that.
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ss6
post May 17 2004, 01:11 PM
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Curt, have any idea what part number to ask for at the VW dealer? The $88 Porsche p/n is 914-247-904-020, and you have to specify the lock code (which I think I have somewhere). So I'm thinking, if the VW order wants a lock code, I can still use my original keys???

(Had it apart 20 seconds after I drilled a hole roughly in the location shown by KaferMeister's pix (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) .)
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kafermeister
post May 17 2004, 04:32 PM
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QUOTE(ss6 @ May 17 2004, 03:11 PM)
(Had it apart 20 seconds after I drilled a hole roughly in the location shown by KaferMeister's pix (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) .)

Excellent! I wondered if drilling a hole would be necessary. Thanks for posting your results.

Rick
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TheCabinetmaker
post May 17 2004, 04:37 PM
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Sorry John, Don't know the vw part #. Hmm, I was quoted 160 bucks at the local Porsche dealership. The vw part was about 45. For $88.00, I go with the Porsche part. The keys are different.
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rdracrdave
post May 17 2004, 05:09 PM
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Notice the crack in the electrical part of the switch in the last photo. I've replaced litterally dozens of these switches with the same crack .
The engineers told me that the crack forms from the grease inside the plastic housing getting rock hard from very cold weather and fracturing the plastic when you turn the key .
Do you guys in the warmer areas have the same issue?
Dave
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campbellcj
post May 17 2004, 09:12 PM
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Great pics & writeup guys (Classic Thread candidate, oh might admins?)

I recently figured out by trial and error how to do this so I could remove the steering lock mechanism but still have the regular key-activated ignition.
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ss6
post May 17 2004, 10:02 PM
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After doing a little internet searching, it appears the lock cylinders are made by Hella, and the ones used on the '75+ Rabbit are identical to the cylinder used in all 914-4's The part number is M5040-15113, they are commonly available for under $20 (with keys), and at least one parts supplier lists this part number specifically as a 914 replacement. The catalog picture appears to be identical to my cylinder (famous last words).

I have one on order as an experiment, on the hopes that I can rekey the lock either by transferring the pins (pretty worn though) or by reordering the pins in the new lock. Apparently there are only 4 sizes of pin, and I have the code sequence for my particular lock, thanx to a PO. Hopefully, the PP tech article will help.

I'll update this thread with my results.
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kafermeister
post May 18 2004, 07:58 PM
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Wow. Didn't know that about the Rabbit ignition switches. I have one w/key that came out of a '83 GTI I would have donated. You know I gotta try it now. ;-)

Correct, only 4 different tumblers. Same with Door keys IIRC.

Rick
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