Wheel bearing on Social Security? Options

[partwerks]

I don't know if it is the wheel bearing on the left rear side that is the problem or something else. I don't see anything loose on the underside.
When taking a left handed turn like around the block, it will itermittently make a rubbing/howling noise, like on metal.
It only does it when taking a left hand turn only in this example.

or would it be a CV joint?

[Dave_Darling]

A left turn would load the suspension and wheels on the RIGHT side of the car. Check those.

--DD

[partwerks]

Sounds like the noise is on the drivers side......?

What's the protocol in checking?

[ConeDodger]

Sounds like the noise is on the drivers side......?

What's the protocol in checking?

Grab the wheel at the top and pull and push. If it makes a bit of a clunk the WB is toast. I would just replace them if you don't know how old or how many miles. They aren't that hard to replace. Two inners, two outers, two seals...

[partwerks]

If it comes to it, where might be the best place to purchase them at?

[sww914]

Jack it up and spin each wheel. If you hear SSSSSSHHHHHHHHHH, everything is OK and move on. If you hear GRUMBLE GRUMBLE or CRUNCH CRUNCH, that's bad. If you doubt yourself, it's probably OK, bad wheel bearings sound really bad. You should be able to move the front wheels a tiny tiny bit if you push/pull at the top or bottom with the car jacked up. You should not be able to rattle the rears at all.

[partwerks]

In case I need to order some bearings, what are all the parts I would need to get and the best place to purchase them at?

[partwerks]

Will this bearing work?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CENTRIC-412...sQ5fAccessories

[RJMII]

These are the rear ones I bought for my car:

http://www.pmbperformance.com/catalog/item...868/3856333.htm

[ConeDodger]

If it comes to it, where might be the best place to purchase them at?

GPR - see banner ad

PMB Performance (Eric Shea)

Porsche dealer (I hear the Boxster uses the same wheel bearing as the 914)

[ConeDodger]

I should add, don't put this off. My car had brand new wheel bearings installed as part of a complete suspension rebuild with Elephant Bushings, new stock ball joints - in short everything. I still had a clunk. When McMark at Original Customs took off the wheel and mic'd the spindle it mic'd out at exactly the same as others in the shop but it had one area of wear from a previous owners worn out bearings. Mark had to modify the inner bearing race to move the bearing just slightly inward to fix it. I will have to source a good used strut to permanently fix it.

If you don't replace these bearings you risk destroying the spindle which will make for a much more expensive and involved job. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

[partwerks]

Is there anything else that I need to purchase besides the bearing when the mechanic tears into it, so I don't go into it and not have all the items necessary to finish the job?

[sww914]

You're putting the cart before the horse. Find the problem first or let the mechanic find it.

[Haudiosolutions]

Almost sounds like you've got a brake pad leaning against the rotor when you're turning.

[Spoke]

In case I need to order some bearings, what are all the parts I would need to get and the best place to purchase them at?

You could always take off the hubs and inspect the existing bearings. Or if you don't want to remove the brake caliper, just take off the retaining nut and look at the outer bearing.

As someone mentioned, inspect your brake calipers too.

Are you sure it's coming from the front? My experience has been that rear bearings sound off most notably when cornering.

I purchased front wheel bearings from my local NAPA parts supply store. Called at 9am; they had them by 1pm.

[partwerks]

I took it to the mechanic here and put it on the hoist and one problem was the bolt that it swings up and down on was a bit loose and tightened it up, and we checked with moving the wheel and the bearing is showing signs that it is needing replaced.

Due to the previous person when doing the conversion didn't put the boot clamps on either he mentioned and proably needs to redo the other side with grease as well and so, for $126.00, where he gets his parts from a wholesaler, he can get me:

1. Bearing kit
2. 2 tubes of cv high temp grease
3. 4 cv gaskets
4. 4 boot clamps

I believe it was the brand of bearing FAG
Does this sound like a reasonable price for parts and just let him get the parts? Maybe it isn't worth me chasing down the parts as he can get them the next day.

[partwerks]

Well, since the last report, the mechanic that did the conversion who is not local to me, in response to the mechanic who is local and going to do the bearing job. There are a couple of things that may not need to be done.

1. Apparently the lack of cv boot clamps on mine are designed NOT to need any clamps as he thought that they were left off.
2. Also, he was thinking that he would need to remove the whole trailing arm to replace the bearing and apparently that is not necessary.
If all that is true, it would save me from a possible wheel alignment and extra grease, 2 cv gaskets and 4 clamps if I don't really need them.

How does one go about replacing the bearing w/o removing the trailing arm?

This was his response to the problem:
There are no clamps on the CV joints, not required by design. The wheel bearing replacement doesn't necessarily require removal of the trailing arm. If it is removed, it will need realigned.

[Spoke]

I took it to the mechanic here and put it on the hoist and one problem was the bolt that it swings up and down on was a bit loose and tightened it up, and we checked with moving the wheel and the bearing is showing signs that it is needing replaced.

Due to the previous person when doing the conversion didn't put the boot clamps on either he mentioned and proably needs to redo the other side with grease as well and so, for $126.00, where he gets his parts from a wholesaler, he can get me:

1. Bearing kit
2. 2 tubes of cv high temp grease
3. 4 cv gaskets
4. 4 boot clamps

I believe it was the brand of bearing FAG
Does this sound like a reasonable price for parts and just let him get the parts? Maybe it isn't worth me chasing down the parts as he can get them the next day.

When you say "the bolt that it swings up and down", are you referring to the rear swing arm?

This bolt should be tightened when the car is on the ground, not on the rack.

So the offending bearing(s) are on the rear of the car?

Is your mechanic schooled in 914 maintenance? You need to find someone with 914 experience.

Are in the north east? Look up Ray Mitel or Rich Towle. They're both in MA/CT and have a wealth of knowledge. Racer Chris can do the work you need and do it right. I think he's in CT.

Don't let a mechanic w/o 914 experience work on your car.

[partwerks]

Yes, it is the bolt that is swings up and down on in the rear and he did tighten it on the hoist. The bearing is thinking of retiring.

He does specialize in VW, Audi, and Subaru. I'm not sure if he has worked on a 914 before or not, but wouldn't think it would vary from an old bug, but I'm no mechanic.

How does one replace the bearing with out removing the trailing arm then?
Are there any You Tube videos that would maybe show how to do one that I could pass along to him? I've seen some with the whole trailing arm off.

I'm about 600 miles from the person who did the conversion and was going to have this guy do it local.

[Spoke]

Here's a step-by-step rear bearing change thread in the Classic Section:

Changing Rear Wheel Bearing

I did mine with the trailing arm off the car. Some have done it on the car. I would assume your mechanic would want to do it off the car and skip the bearing and hub freezing steps.