Tarret Engineering, Cool stuff |
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Tarret Engineering, Cool stuff |
PeeGreen 914 |
May 2 2011, 03:30 PM
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#1
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Just when you think you're done...wait, there is more..lol Group: Members Posts: 10,219 Joined: 21-September 06 From: Seattle, WA... actually Everett Member No.: 6,884 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
Just browsing his site and noticed these: (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) Front Coil Over Conversion Kit |
ConeDodger |
May 2 2011, 03:51 PM
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#2
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Apex killer! Group: Members Posts: 23,592 Joined: 31-December 04 From: Tahoe Area Member No.: 3,380 Region Association: Northern California |
Push...
Neat idea though. I wonder if you remove the torsion bar when you put it in. I like using the sway bar with stock spring rate over huge torsion bars or stuff like this. |
enderw88 |
May 2 2011, 03:52 PM
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#3
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Newbie Group: Members Posts: 35 Joined: 20-April 11 From: Tucson, AZ Member No.: 12,960 Region Association: Southwest Region |
Just browsing his site and noticed these: (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) Front Coil Over Conversion Kit Still a newb WRT Porsche stuff but these seem like a ghetto solution. Not just cheap, but bad:
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Dave_Darling |
May 2 2011, 06:47 PM
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#4
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914 Idiot Group: Members Posts: 14,986 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Silicon Valley / Kailua-Kona Member No.: 121 Region Association: Northern California |
I don't specifically know about the Tarrett stuff, but Ira is not known for under-engineering his stuff. That said:
1) It is very rare for shocks to overheat. Most of the coil-over conversions for the rear of the 914 (and for many other cars!) use a threaded sleeve, and we do not hear about heat issues with them. Not even in race cars, which I would think would have the majority of the issues. An off-roader might well have problems, though. 2) Most coil-over conversions are designed to replace the torsion bars, not to supplement them. That said, I bet you can set it up like the 944 rear (?) where the coil and torsion bar work together. But the A-arm can be replaced with something much less beefy if you aren't transmitting the spring forces through it. 3) The shocks should be OK for that; almost all cars besides our 914s and their VW and Porsche kindred use coil springs and the same design of shock absorbers. However, we have heard that the upper mounting points should be reinforced if you do switch to coil-overs in the front. Some have noted no problems after a while, but others have talked of problems in the area. So the mounts and the chassis may need to be beefed up to run that kind of setup over the long haul. --DD |
jjackson |
May 2 2011, 07:34 PM
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#5
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Member Group: Members Posts: 219 Joined: 5-October 10 From: maumelle, arkansas Member No.: 12,246 Region Association: None |
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) We ran a similar setup to this for about 8 seasons.Never experienced any of the above mentioned concerns.We did not run as a supplement to torsion bars-we removed torsion bars completely.This setup is the reason that we could do so much testing in the front end.Lots of reasonable sources for springs.We ran 2.5 inch springs on konis.JJackson
I don't specifically know about the Tarrett stuff, but Ira is not known for under-engineering his stuff. That said: 1) It is very rare for shocks to overheat. Most of the coil-over conversions for the rear of the 914 (and for many other cars!) use a threaded sleeve, and we do not hear about heat issues with them. Not even in race cars, which I would think would have the majority of the issues. An off-roader might well have problems, though. 2) Most coil-over conversions are designed to replace the torsion bars, not to supplement them. That said, I bet you can set it up like the 944 rear (?) where the coil and torsion bar work together. But the A-arm can be replaced with something much less beefy if you aren't transmitting the spring forces through it. 3) The shocks should be OK for that; almost all cars besides our 914s and their VW and Porsche kindred use coil springs and the same design of shock absorbers. However, we have heard that the upper mounting points should be reinforced if you do switch to coil-overs in the front. Some have noted no problems after a while, but others have talked of problems in the area. So the mounts and the chassis may need to be beefed up to run that kind of setup over the long haul. --DD |
J P Stein |
May 2 2011, 09:22 PM
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#6
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Irrelevant old fart Group: Members Posts: 8,797 Joined: 30-December 02 From: Vancouver, WA Member No.: 45 Region Association: None |
I have never used coil overs up front but I made good use of the room freed up by their not being there. No strut dust covers either. I wanted the canti slicks inboard as far as they would go.....it's a scrub radius thing.
BTW, torsion bars have 0 unsprung weight....but 0 bling. |
brant |
May 2 2011, 09:28 PM
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#7
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914 Wizard Group: Members Posts: 11,625 Joined: 30-December 02 From: Colorado Member No.: 47 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
coil overs on the front would be good if you needed to change to higher spring rates or experiment alot
lets be honest.. 99.99 of the people on this board will never change their front spring rate for a particular track or outing. coil overs are easier to change when you go to each different track.. pro teams try 3-4 spring rates a day 914 guys use one spring rate a decade. |
sww914 |
May 2 2011, 10:00 PM
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#8
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,439 Joined: 4-June 06 Member No.: 6,146 Region Association: None |
You should change to oil overs when you and your car have advanced to the point that you need spring rates that aren't available with torsion bars. Not because they're pretty.
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jjackson |
May 3 2011, 05:32 AM
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#9
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Member Group: Members Posts: 219 Joined: 5-October 10 From: maumelle, arkansas Member No.: 12,246 Region Association: None |
You should change to oil overs when you and your car have advanced to the point that you need spring rates that aren't available with torsion bars. Not because they're pretty. We tested in 50lb increments,with and without sway bars, and multiple sway bar adjustments.I guesss were in the .01% bracket.Never ran a part for bling or pretty so would not understand the concept.When we ran the radials A6s and slicks , the room that the coilovers took up-based on the camber the tires required-became a problem without good camber plates.With the bias plys-never been an issue.Running a slightly wider track in front than JP was.His point on scrub radius is absolutely correct.Tires need to be inset as much as possible in the front.Dedicated autox car-bling is on the clock.JJackson |
jjackson |
May 3 2011, 06:34 AM
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#10
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Member Group: Members Posts: 219 Joined: 5-October 10 From: maumelle, arkansas Member No.: 12,246 Region Association: None |
With all of the previous being said-Proper valving and tuning on struts in relation to springs -ride height-rake-sway bars etc-is extremely critical for most (some -very few, are the exceptions to this) national level autox competition.We worked with the wrong guy on our single adjustable konis.Bilstein guys on the left coast seem very reasonable and competent-we never went that route.JJackson
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FourBlades |
May 3 2011, 06:56 AM
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#11
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From Wreck to Rockin Group: Members Posts: 2,054 Joined: 3-December 07 From: Brevard, FL Member No.: 8,414 Region Association: South East States |
Loving this thread. Lots of good information here. John |
sean_v8_914 |
May 3 2011, 07:13 AM
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#12
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Chingon 601 Group: Members Posts: 4,011 Joined: 1-February 05 From: San Diego Member No.: 3,541 |
our canti slicks run very close to the strut. we woujld need to space the wheel out to fit coil overs.
what do you think about the advantage/disadvantages of scrub radius vs increased track width? |
J P Stein |
May 3 2011, 08:25 AM
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#13
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Irrelevant old fart Group: Members Posts: 8,797 Joined: 30-December 02 From: Vancouver, WA Member No.: 45 Region Association: None |
our canti slicks run very close to the strut. we woujld need to space the wheel out to fit coil overs. what do you think about the advantage/disadvantages of scrub radius vs increased track width? No contest (IMO) if you're an AXer.....unless you like understeer in the tight stuff. That said, it's really the center line of the wheel that you need to keep inboard. 7 or 8 inch wide wheel with no spacers (5 inch backspace) is as wide as I will go. The 8 inch ia pushing it some but provides better sidewall sitffness for the cantis. For the track (wider radius corners) the issue is not critical. |
sean_v8_914 |
May 3 2011, 09:08 AM
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#14
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Chingon 601 Group: Members Posts: 4,011 Joined: 1-February 05 From: San Diego Member No.: 3,541 |
we were wondering about the cantis on 7" vs 8". thats like a bonus answer
I'll measure that JP and report back. we do have to space them out some to clear the strut in front we did not think it was pushing but I tend to compensate and drive "around" an issue. Herb has better feel for such things and he liked it. I just change my technique. this is probably why Im teh tuner and Herb is the real driver. (faster than me) |
sean_v8_914 |
May 3 2011, 09:09 AM
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#15
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Chingon 601 Group: Members Posts: 4,011 Joined: 1-February 05 From: San Diego Member No.: 3,541 |
PS. we like our Tarett bar set to med/soft w 21mm torsions and 225 rear w rear bar
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PeeGreen 914 |
May 3 2011, 09:27 AM
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#16
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Just when you think you're done...wait, there is more..lol Group: Members Posts: 10,219 Joined: 21-September 06 From: Seattle, WA... actually Everett Member No.: 6,884 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
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sean_v8_914 |
May 3 2011, 09:47 AM
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#17
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Chingon 601 Group: Members Posts: 4,011 Joined: 1-February 05 From: San Diego Member No.: 3,541 |
lsd would be nice but right now its a waste of time with a stock d jet 2.0. I better build something else before that ole 2.0 tells us to pound sand
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