DIY Strings Alignment Setup Options

[yeahmag]

This was built using 80/20 hardware and a friend of mine on the mill:

[yeahmag]

The sliders at the end are indexed every 5 mm

[yeahmag]

I'm using string here just because it was handy for the demo. I will be using fishing line when I actually start working with it.

[yeahmag]

The bars are *exactly* the same length and indexed *exactly* the same. So all I should need to do is measure off the front and rear (L & R) and I will have a parallelogram very quickly.

[PeeGreen 914]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) Nice, This is very similar to what you would pay a few hundred for.

Now all you need are scales (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

[yeahmag]

I know! That part is still killing me...

[URY914]

Leave them on and use them for curb feelers. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[Andyrew]

String alignment works great for toe in/out, but IMHO I dont see it helping with camber or caster...

I use 2 4x4's and a tape measure and a buddy... Then drive to the alignment shop and pay the man $50 to tell me I did it right and give me a printout of camber/caster/toe/"walk". (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

I also use a bubble camber guage... Cross between the two below.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/New-Aluminu...=item2eb4cc14e1
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Tenhulzen-A...=item4aab1e936e

[whatabout1]

For camber just get on flat floor (doesn't need to be level).

Put a framing square on the floor and against the tire so you have a 90 to floor.

Measure from square to bottom of wheel rim then measure from sq to top of wheel rim.
(Rim not tire) Figure the diffence and wheel diameter between measuring points
and do the trig or

http://www.furybusa.org.uk/camber.php

Not perfect but close enough.

[Eric_Shea]

This was built using 80/20 hardware and a friend of mine on the mill:

How much to do a second one?

[SirAndy]

I use 2 4x4's and a tape measure and a buddy... Then drive to the alignment shop and pay the man $50 to tell me I did it right and give me a printout of camber/caster/toe/"walk". (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

The problem with that is that a two wheel alignment does not ensure the whole car is square.

We use camber plates at the track for quick setups, but you're only setting the front or the rear at any given time.

If the car is not squared, you'll be crabbing down the road ...
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)

[Krank]

The bars are *exactly* the same length and indexed *exactly* the same. So all I should need to do is measure off the front and rear (L & R) and I will have a parallelogram very quickly.

I was never a huge fan or "string" alignments that I used to do in the 70s and I am still not a fan of them. Too many discrepancies. Wheel track must be 100% the same between front and rear axles to get an accurate toe in measurement/setting. If you were to start with a true toe in setting of 1/8" and then widen the front axle wheel track by 1.00" your string method of measurement now reads a different toe reading. This is just to show the change in toe that is possible. Don't get me wrong, this method may get you close but using jack stands as string anchors would probably work just as well. Seeing as you are measuring the distance from the string to the tire 9 0'clock, axle center, and 3 o'clock positions to obtain a parallel line on each side of the car and give you an idea of toe in/out. If all you wish to accomplish is proper toe setting, a "toe bar" scribe method would be more accurate. To be honest, I have never looked up the wheel track or steer axle set back specs of a 914 and it may be exactly the same and work fine but just so you are aware that there are many vehicle that are not the same.

[yeahmag]

This system does replace jack stands - and yes that works. That's how I did my last alignment... The relationship between the front and rear is arbitrary and only aided by the fact that the front and rear bars are identical in length and index. *ALL* that matters is that you have a parallel box around the vehicle to reference from. So what if the track width changes? Make a parallel box... A toe bar will give you the relationship between two wheels, but not the relationship of the center line of the car.

Assuming you have a perfect square, the strings method will give you the same reading as a "toe bar". If your center line is off on the toe, you will still get the same reading with the toe bar. I see a toe bar (or toe plates) as a secondary system. Which I intend to use at the track... Like the Longacre toe plate system.

[SirAndy]

Wheel track must be 100% the same between front and rear axles to get an accurate toe in measurement/setting

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

I've probably done 100 of them by now and not once on a car that had the same track width front/rear.

I don't see how that would have any impact at all? Confused ... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)

[yeahmag]

I would guess at least $200 in parts - probably not worth it. Maybe you and I could work a trade of some sort. Let's talk offline.

This was built using 80/20 hardware and a friend of mine on the mill:

How much to do a second one?

[Andyrew]

I use 2 4x4's and a tape measure and a buddy... Then drive to the alignment shop and pay the man $50 to tell me I did it right and give me a printout of camber/caster/toe/"walk". (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

The problem with that is that a two wheel alignment does not ensure the whole car is square.

We use camber plates at the track for quick setups, but you're only setting the front or the rear at any given time.

If the car is not squared, you'll be crabbing down the road ...
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)

Which is why you go to the alignment shop that has lazers and pay the men 50 bucks to do the car the rest of the way... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

The 4x4 method works great for those quick jobs if you just did something and need to drive somewhere. I just dont see how a string method will do the car to the level that a daily driver should be at to prevent premature tire wear.

[Richard Casto]

Wheel track must be 100% the same between front and rear axles to get an accurate toe in measurement/setting

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

I've probably done 100 of them by now and not once on a car that had the same track width front/rear.

I don't see how that would have any impact at all? Confused ... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) You don't have to have same front/rear track width to set toe using string method.

Richard

[Dave_Darling]

I just dont see how a string method will do the car to the level that a daily driver should be at to prevent premature tire wear.

As long as you get the strings referenced to the actual centerline if the car, you can get it as good with strings as you can with lasers. In fact, you get the exact same problem with the lasers; they have to be referenced to the centerline of the car to make sure the car doesn't crab.

The track widths are completely irrelevant, you measure the tire (or the wheel) against the centerline, not the front wheel against the back wheel.

--DD

[mrbubblehead]

I just dont see how a string method will do the car to the level that a daily driver should be at to prevent premature tire wear.

As long as you get the strings referenced to the actual centerline if the car, you can get it as good with strings as you can with lasers. In fact, you get the exact same problem with the lasers; they have to be referenced to the centerline of the car to make sure the car doesn't crab.

The track widths are completely irrelevant, you measure the tire (or the wheel) against the centerline, not the front wheel against the back wheel.

--DD

so how is the best way to find the center line of the care.

[BK911]

I use a setup very similar, but with electrical conduit. About $15 in parts and I get repeatable results everytime. Same jig works on my 911 and 914.