DIY Strings Alignment Setup Options

[Bartlett 914]

You need to take the track width into consideration or the strings will not be parallel. The rear track width of the 914 is 1 icnh greater than the front. You need to add 1/2 inch when setting the distance from the front hub vs the rear to achieve parallelism.

That's close but the camber difference between front and rear will make the distance slightly different than the difference in track.

Not if you measure at the center of the wheel.

[tradisrad]

how to string align from smart racing.

I am a little confused on his instruction where he says " Toe-in: the measurement is longer on the leading edge of the
wheel than the trailing edge of the wheel." This seems backwards to me and he has it switched with "Toe-out: the measurement is shorter on the leading edge of the wheel than the trailing edge of the wheel." Is he correct with his terminology?

[yeahmag]

And here are some videos from yesterday's trip to Streets of Willow with PCA.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fIr2D6OsyYY


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=34Ontk23idE

[SirAndy]

Is he correct with his terminology?

Yes, he is correct. The distance on the front edge (leading edge) of the wheel will be larger for toe-in.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)

[yeahmag]

Remember it's the distance from the *outside* of the car to the wheel... So toe in will have a greater distance from the string to the front half of the rim:

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vs toe out which will have less distance from the string to the front of the rim (in relation to the back of the rim):

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-Aaron

[tradisrad]

Is he correct with his terminology?

Yes, he is correct. The distance on the front edge (leading edge) of the wheel will be larger for toe-in.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)

ah (or should I say duh), from the string. I am more familiar with toe plates...

[Rand]

Remember it's the distance from the *outside* of the car to the wheel... So toe in will have a greater distance from the string to the front half of the rim:

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vs toe out which will have less distance from the string to the front of the rim (in relation to the back of the rim):

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-Aaron

Just to clarify, your words make sense but your stick figures threw me because I usually see figures with front of car at top of diagram. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Look at your feet on the ground. Pivot on your heels, move your toes in. Toe in.
I walk like a duck, I like a little toe out so I can turn quicker. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/www.ustudy.in-3573-1305661169.1.jpg)

[enderw88]

how to string align from smart racing.

I am a little confused on his instruction where he says " Toe-in: the measurement is longer on the leading edge of the
wheel than the trailing edge of the wheel." This seems backwards to me and he has it switched with "Toe-out: the measurement is shorter on the leading edge of the wheel than the trailing edge of the wheel." Is he correct with his terminology?

See the attached diagram. Remember you are measuring from the OUTSIDE of the car, not the centerline.

[karnak]

Good info here. i have done a string alignment and then taken it to a shop and they had little to do.

however, i have to ask, since it seems hard to find here on the forum but this may be the best place for it...

[if i set the car up per the stock specs, all will be fine for the street...] but if i want to autocross the car then a different set of specs should be used.

does any body (from experience) want to post what they have used / found to be a good autocross setup...?

thanks!
Gary

[yeahmag]

1/16" to in in the rear. 1/8" or more toe out in the front. As much caster and camber as you can get in the front. 2 degrees in the rear of camber.

I muck with it all the time though...

[mrbubblehead]

this is the website i used to string align my car with. http://raystrax.com/ha/914/Align914_Forward.html he also gives suggested specs.

[dion9146]

this is the website i used to string align my car with. http://raystrax.com/ha/914/Align914_Forward.html he also gives suggested specs.

I've string aligned my car a number of times before with limited success, but I really never executed a level of precision that I should have. I used the above method this time to redo my alignment again due to a nasty vibration that I was starting to get around 73 mph.

The only thing I did that isn't in the instructions involved building a set of 3" platforms to sit level under each tire allowing me to reach up under and adjust the tie rods without needing to lift the car. This made a huge difference and probably allowed me to get it right this time.

I took it for a short drive around the block and everything felt good. Then yesterday I drove it to a client meeting, and I was running late. I got on the highway and hammered it - decided not to look down until I started to feel a bit of vibration - 110 mph. I think it worked this time. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

D