Starter/Ignition Question, 74 Not turning over Options

[74914LE]

Thought I would get some advice before I jump into next steps....

I bought a 74 2.0, that came without a key, and the steering column locked. Since them, I have re-keyed the car, and purchased an Optima to try and get it
to start. When I turn the ignition switch, this is what I get...

1. In position "I" the generator light is Red, and a relay turns on/off under the
dash, while the fuel needle moves ever so slightly with each click of the relay.

2. The headlights come up, and glow strong. So battery must be connected OK.

3. Move to position "II", to engage the starter, and all I get, is a "click" in the
passenger side of the engine compartment. No movement of the starter. This is a one man show, so I do not have anyone to stand in the back to isolate.

Any ideas on where I should start this process to isolate the problem?

I greatly appreciate your comments.

[Tom]

Try tapping the bendix on the starter a few times with a hammer. They get stuck when sitting for a long time.
If that doesn't work, you can try the starter by jumping from the large pole on the bendix to the spade connector with the large yellow wire. It should cause the starter to turn.
Be careful when doing this under the car. Brake on, out of gear, etc.
Tom

[Tom_T]

Try tapping the bendix on the starter a few times with a hammer. They get stuck when sitting for a long time.
If that doesn't work, you can try the starter by jumping from the large pole on the bendix to the spade connector with the large yellow wire. It should cause the starter to turn.
Be careful when doing this under the car. Brake on, out of gear, etc.
Tom

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

... but that trick requires 1 person to crank while 2nd taps - i.e.. GF/buddy cranks while you tap.

However - I'm not sure how long this 914 has sat not run - but if more than a year or two, also before you try starting it after having sat for awhile, you should replace all rubber fuel & EFI lines, change the fuel & inspect the tank interior for rust, change the fuel sock in the tank bottom & fuel filter, & verify fuel pump operates without leaks. Otherwise you'll F-up some very expensive NLA injectors/etc., even if you avoid spewing fuel all over the engine & getting a fire in there! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

While you're changing those soft lines, also do the rubber brake lines, fluid & see if the calipers are seized (probably require a rebuild of all 4 F&R), and may as well redo the rubber vacuum lines in the engine bay too to make sure the EFI & ignition gets the correct info.

Degumming the 4 injectors & cold start valve (5th injector) first is also a good idea after sitting all that time.

In fact, even if only a year you should inspect all these things first anyway.

Another Tom (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
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[74914LE]

Thanks Tom & Tom-

Yes, it has been sitting for over 4 years. Have already replaced the fuel tank,
lines, and vaccum hoses. Will have to validate the Fuel pump, and then check
on the sticking Bendix. Looks like I will have to draft someone to help out.

Will let you know what I find out.....

[mrgjones]

I've found that I've been able to do the old "tap the bendix" trick by myself. To do after it won't turn over I leave the car in acc. and tap on the bendix with a wrench until it sparks. Then it usually turns over fine. Prob. best to get a rebuild or new starter as this can be embarrassing if you're in public. Don't forget the hard start relay conversion. It's well worth the extra $25. Just sayin. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[TheCabinetmaker]

That 25 dollar hot start relay kit is nothing but a10 dollar ford solenoid and page of wiring diagram that is on this site for free.

[TheCabinetmaker]

Besides that, if all the connections and grounds are tight and clean, you dont need it.

Curt.