Shop advice, Who pays when they break something? Options

[Andyrew]

When my CV broke driving away from my uncles shop (after he did the rear suspension bushings, CV joints needed removal), he took the car back, installed a axle replacing my 150k mile axle (He reccomended replacing the other axle, I agreed). He charged me 0 labor to replace the broken CV's, and split the cost with me on the broken CV (This was his cost, CV's were 100ea). Then he charged me 3/4 shop hours to replace one joint. Granted this was my uncle, but I felt this was fair buisness practice at the time.




Mburkhart, "castle nut" locks down the stub axle, examples are posted in this thread.

[mburkhart]

Thanks for the perspective Cap'n. I spoke to the mechanic who explained that the problem was getting the bearing off of the "stub axle". There was no broken bolt (that came from the first guy who called me, who isn't a mechanic).

Apparently he tried everything he could to separate the bearing from the shaft, but ended up damaging some part of either the stub axle or the "flange". They wanted to charge me $300 for a used part to replace the one that was broken and $200 for the labor spent trying to extract it in one piece. I have agreed to pay the cost of labor and they agreed to accept a used part from me in exchange.

As I stated before, I believe in paying for services rendered. It's just hard to swallow "oh btw, we broke your car while trying to fix it and it's going to cost you an additional $500".

[mburkhart]

jmill, I sent you a PM about the stub axle.

[McMark]

It sounds like he did everything he could to save the stub axle. The labor cost was the 2 hours he spent trying to coax the stub axle out of the bearing. He tried pressing it out, heating it, heating and pressing, etc. to no avail. By the time he got it out, the stub axle was damaged beyond repair.

I have ABSOLUTELY run into this problem and had the same result. If you bring a shop a car that has parts that are rusted beyond repair, it's not the shops fault. It's a bummer, but your car had a secret problem that was completely undetectable until the wheel bearings needed replacing. It happens. These are not new cars, parts do not always remove and install like they should. If the shop made a mistake, they should fix it. Rust/corrosion is not a mistake, it's a fact of life on our cars.

The fact that they're willing to take an exchange part is major (IMG:style_emoticons/default/thumb3d.gif) IMHO, sounds like you've got a halfway decent shop there.

[ArtechnikA]

you need to see the parts...

flange == hub. This is what rides in the bearings.

Whoever's supplying your replacement will need to know _for sure_ that it's a standard part, if it is. You haven't said... We're assuming so, but if it's a 5-lug redrilled hub like in that earlier picture (I know - not from you...) well - it makes a big difference.

I would probably spend 2 hrs of my time trying to get a bearing off a hub, but I think after the first hour I'd have hit the bearing race with a cutoff wheel (you are not trying to save the race anyway...) and let it crack off. I'm having a hard time seeing how it wouldn't come off with a big shop press, but I haven't seen any 914 hubs close up for a long time...

[jmill]

jmill, I sent you a PM about the stub axle.

Got it. They're yours if you want to make the drive.

but if it's a 5-lug redrilled hub like in that earlier picture (I know - not from you...) well - it makes a big difference.

That's the genuine article, not a redrill.

[ArtechnikA]

That's the genuine article, not a redrill.

Even moreso.
One can't just say what 'a hub' oughtta be worth until you know more about the hub...

[jmill]

He's getting 4 lug hubs from me also. Either way he should be covered. I'm still curious on what he hosed up. My only guess is the split bearing piece stayed on the hub and he jacked it up trying to get it off.

[ConeDodger]

Some of these cars are approaching 40 years old. I would expect that things are going to get broken that cannot be foreseen when the job is estimated... Particularly parts subject to the harsh Midwest road conditions. It's going to rust and break when you try to take it apart... Pay the labor and find a replacement part.

[jmill]

Eric has some great videos showing rear hub sticky split bearing issue and the removal solution.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...949&hl=rear

[jmill]

Need an update. Is it fixed?

[benalishhero]

I had the same thing happen to me with a 2005 saab last month. Damn 1/2 shaft was frozen in the hub. I had to heat the CRAP out of it and bent the end of the shaft in the process using a shop press. I charged the customer for the 1/2 shaft and additional labor. Stuff happens. 2005 can you believe it. Damn GM. Thin layer of antiseize anyone?.........

[mburkhart]

Okay, here's what happened.

The actual problem at the shop was that the stub axle could not be removed from the flange. The splines were completely joined to the flange, and no amount of heat or elbow grease was able to get them apart. The stub axle did eventually come out, but by then both the stub axle and the flange were destroyed. So it was not a broken bolt, but a broken stub axle and flange. The shop wanted me to pay $300 for a used replacement stub axle + flange along with $200 for the additional labor spent trying (and failing) to get them apart.

I told the shop that I would pay the additional labor if they would credit me the $300 and accept a replacement part from me. They agreed.

Jmill offered a stub axle and flange assembly if I could come up and get it (he's about an hour away from me). I actually sent my wife to make the pickup - she wanted to go shopping up in Wisconsin for the day anyway! The parts were exactly what I needed, and the shop accepted them and credited me $300. I got my car and was on my way!

Another win for 914world!

Thanks everyone - especially jmill - for the help!

Mike

[ptravnic]

Solid end to the story. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)

I was rescued by the board when I was in a pinch a few years ago - kinda makes you believe in humanity, no?

[Spoke]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)

Drive it like you stole it.

It's good to be able to do most of the work on your car. My first rear wheel bearing job I took the trailing arm off and took it to a machine shop with the new bearing for them to press on. 3 hours and $40 later, I had the refurbished arm on the car.

[Eric_Shea]

Mike... don't EVER go back to that shop. They were looking to rip you off big time and... they don't know what thy're doing. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)