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> the blasted themostat cable broke! AAAAArgh!, fixed with a bike cable!
VaccaRabite
post Jun 10 2011, 08:40 PM
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tonight I spent about an hour under the car putting the alternator tin back in place and getting the thermostat bolted in.

As I was fishing a string down the hole in the tin for the thermostat wire, on a whim I jiggled the flaps arm. It was stuck. It is stuck. Feeling in with my fingers from the no2 spark plug hole, I can feel that it is open, but it is not moving.

Is there a way I can diagnose and fix this without pulling the engine? I have this horrible feeling that if I pull the motor the chances of me driving the Porsche this summer are slim and none.

But, on the other hand the carbs are off, fuel is already disconnected - its the right time if I had to do it. And I could find that pesky oil seep in the front of the engine.

I know what I SHOULD do. I just really do not want to do it. :-( I have so little time these days to work on the car.

Zach
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speed metal army
post Jun 10 2011, 09:07 PM
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I was reading some threads on this recently..I recall open was fine?Just shitty when cold..I do drink beer on occasion,so dont take my word for it. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
Cheers! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif)
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VaccaRabite
post Jun 10 2011, 09:10 PM
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I have been running with the flaps open for the past few years.
I decided that since I was moving from headers to exchangers I wanted to have a functional thermostat.

Zach
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'73-914kid
post Jun 10 2011, 09:11 PM
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I was looking at some spare parts this last week, and noticed that if the whole flap unit gets shifted towards the driver side, the passenger side arm fall out of alignment with the slot in the fan housing, preventing the arm from moving. try sliding the whole flap unit towards the passenger side of the car. This might fix your problem...
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Ductech
post Jun 10 2011, 09:38 PM
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I imagine that the thermostatic cooling setup is to help warm up those cylinders quickly to match the exspansion rate of the piston's inside. This I imagine is more to help that little aircooled beasty last that much longer.
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jsayre914
post Jun 10 2011, 09:44 PM
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DO NOT PULL THE MOTOR!!!

I forbid you.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/whip[1].gif)





Drive it damnit
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)
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SLITS
post Jun 10 2011, 10:33 PM
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If you have the carbs off, it's a matter of removing all the attaching screws to remove the cylinder covers. Once they are off, the cooling flaps are exposed on both sides.

You decide ....
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VaccaRabite
post Jun 11 2011, 08:24 AM
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This option is tempting. I should have an hour this evening to work. I hope. Took morning duty with little guy to have the evening off.

Zach
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VaccaRabite
post Jun 11 2011, 08:26 AM
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And indont want to upset Joe. He will kick my ass.
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76-914
post Jun 11 2011, 08:47 AM
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QUOTE('73-914kid @ Jun 10 2011, 08:11 PM) *

I was looking at some spare parts this last week, and noticed that if the whole flap unit gets shifted towards the driver side, the passenger side arm fall out of alignment with the slot in the fan housing, preventing the arm from moving. try sliding the whole flap unit towards the passenger side of the car. This might fix your problem...

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)
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McMark
post Jun 11 2011, 09:24 AM
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The linkage on the pass. side. (1 & 2) can get bound up it it tried to move the wrong way. Just pull that side and you'll fix it.
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McMark
post Jun 12 2011, 12:44 PM
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Brain fart. I meant the 3 & 4 side. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wacko.gif)
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VaccaRabite
post Jun 12 2011, 03:23 PM
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I knew what you meant. The linkage was my initial guess as well. Turned out that the pass side flap was cocked under the lower tin. No way it was going to move. Removing that big tin with the engine in the car was a bitch. Taking a post thunderstorm rest before i try to replace everything.
Zach
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Dave_Darling
post Jun 12 2011, 08:21 PM
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The driver's side tin is worse, IMHO. Working it around the dipstick tube is always a pain, even with the motor out...

--DD
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VaccaRabite
post Jun 12 2011, 08:48 PM
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I got the flaps functional and the tin back in. Fixed a tin sealing problem that had been pestering me while I was at it.

How much tension should the flaps be under?
The spring is wound fairly tight. Should the flaps move easily, or should you have to put some force on the lever? I may have put too many winds on the spring when I put the flaps into place.

Zach
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r_towle
post Jun 12 2011, 08:52 PM
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You did it right.
The last twist makes it tough to get the spring onto the little stop.
Cant wind it past the right amount and it wont do a damn thing unwound one rotation....so you are ok.

Rich
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McMark
post Jun 12 2011, 10:21 PM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) You'd know if it was wrong. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

Great work!
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VaccaRabite
post Jun 13 2011, 04:51 AM
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Cool. I have a feeling it was wound too loose before which lead to the flaps failing closed and me disabling the thermostat in the first place several years ago.

Any tricks on getting the therostat wire into place single handed?

Zach
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mojorisen914
post Jun 13 2011, 07:52 AM
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I just re-attached the thermo cable this past Friday. Fish something down the tin and connect it to the cable. Bring it back up and wrap it around the set screw on the flap cross bar. Easy Peasy. You shouldn't have that much trouble doing that seeing that I can do it.

I meant to remind you to not get the cable wrapped behind the little pully above the thermostat.
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914rat
post Jun 13 2011, 02:35 PM
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QUOTE(Vacca Rabite @ Jun 13 2011, 02:51 AM) *

Cool. I have a feeling it was wound too loose before which lead to the flaps failing closed and me disabling the thermostat in the first place several years ago.

Any tricks on getting the therostat wire into place single handed?

Zach



I dropped a solid straight steel rod used to hold up insulation and tapped the thermostat wire to it and pulled it up.A coat hanger would work too.
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